Intake installation/ Engine assembly

larryc

New Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2010
It has been about 7 or 8 years since I assembled a buick v6 for my Designer edition T-Type and I am rusty. I have a few questions about my engine assembly.

1. What do I use on my intake gasket to seal? Procedure for installation?
2. Do I use any sealer on my front cover gasket to block? I have a girdle so what do I use between the front cover and the girdle to seal?
3. I am using my used double roller timing chain (5k on it) and it has some chain slop. How much is too much?
4. Best gasket for headers?
5. Should I prime the engine on the stand or in the car? (procedure)
6. What oil additives should I use during and after break in.
7. Is it still 2,000 rpm for 20 min for break in? (standard 224/224 cam)
8. What is the best way to assure the 219 foot pounds of torque is on the harmonic balancer bolt and do I use loctite and what color?

Thanks for the help,
Larry
 
Use "the right stuff' from autozone for the intake. Coat the rear and front of the block, place rubber gaskets, another light coat on top. Be sure to get the corners where the head meets the intake. 45 ft/lbs you'll have to track down the torque sequence - Turbo Regal Web Site

1500-2000 rpm Varying it while breaking in. Order some ZDDPlus and use it all the time before and after break in unless you have a roller cam.

I just used high temp rtv on the headers, gaskets always ended up leaking on me.

If you have a external oil cooler prime it in the car with a prime tool you can borrow from autozone. Write up also on gnttype.org

Unless you have a torque wrench that goes to 219 and a way to keep the crank from turning, I would hit it with an impact gun a few times, shouldn't come off after that.
 
For the crank pulley I would use Blue Locktite, and a breaker bar with a tube for more leverage, a prybar on one of the flexplate teeth should hold it from spinning.

Intake manifold shoud have some RTV around the water jackets, and in the corners where the intake meets the lifter valley.

A little slack in the T-chain is ok, make sure you DO NOT use the stock tensioner with a double roller or you'll be taking the engine back out when the tensioner falls apart.

For the front cover I would put the right stuff or RTV around the water jackets and on the bottom where the girdle meets the cover, I also use liquid teflon on the bolts that go in the front cover. You only need teflon for bolts that go into the water jackets, but I put them on all the front bolts. You should be able to get a gasket from AZ for the cover. I smear a little RTV over the gasket as well.

Roller cams dont need break in time, but Flat Tappets do. I'm going to assume your cam is a flat tappet.

Remflex makes a good gasket for the headers, Mark at TR custom parts may have these.

I would prime the engine on the stand and rotate the crank to expose all the oil journals, or you can do this in the car after everything is hooked up.
 
Intake manifold shoud have some RTV around the water jackets, and in the corners where the intake meets the lifter valley.

No sealer around each port on the intake other that the water jackets? I will be getting to the intake install tonight or tomorrow.
 
Just around the water jackets ;). If the gasket is new and torqued properly you should'nt need sealer around the intake runners. Also while the intake is off make sure the knock sensor is torqued to 14ft/lbs
 
To each his own, but I never put goop anywhere but in the four corners where the block meets the heads, or around the water jacket holes. Just dry gasket, or dry rubber at the front and rear.
 
The chain has about 1/4 inch slack on both sides. I didnt know if that would be too much or not. They stretch quick becouse this double roller has less than 5k on it. On the intake I used to use Halamar around the ports on a new intake pan gasket. I didnt know if anyone does this anymore or not.
 
In our shop we only use red high tack spray a gasket on intake gaskets and rtv on the corners of intake never leaks.I have had pretty good luck with copper gaskets sprayed down with high temp copper spray a gasket makes them sticky as hell and withstands high temp.
 
I agree

To each his own, but I never put goop anywhere but in the four corners where the block meets the heads, or around the water jacket holes. Just dry gasket, or dry rubber at the front and rear.

Goobs of sealant is good for covering the oil pickup.
 
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