Intake to block rail leaking?????

[turbognx75]

Stock block champion aluminum heads with the champion race intake stamped OFC I noticed after I final torqued the intake I put a feeler gauge ".010" between intake and the rubber pan rail gasket...I had oil leaking and when I tore it apart I noticed oil on the rubber rail gaskets underneath and on top of the rubber gaskets, so when I put intake on today I used gray sealant that's rigid when dries, on the rail and put the rubbers on after it got a little tachy And a little more on top of the rubber gaskets so I torqued in sequence 10 20 32ftlb and decided to put a feeler gauge and sure as sh$t it went in "future leak again" My Question is this=do the stage motors or the t/a motors have a taller rail where the rubber strips go between heads or is my intake not right....champion says use 1200 gaskets but they didnt line up good and the felpro blue valley pan gasket lines up great....I'm guessing I'll have to load that rail with the gray sealant and get rid of the rubbers....not right but not to sure what it is the intake or what....ANY HELP OR ANSWERS would be great thanks for reading

 

[Nick Micale]

Like most aftermarket parts, they must be closely checked for fit especially when used with other non-stock parts.

Years ago when we installed our first Champion intake on an engine, we found out the hard way that all aspects of the ports and mating surfaces need to be examined for proper fit.

Since performance engine builds have a "mix" of many different parts that have been machined and then assembled, all have different tolerance build up which can, and does, affect mating surfaces.

We check ALL intakes for proper fit during final assembly. More times than not, the intake must be machined to fit whether it is stock, Champion or other type.

Since we build with iron and alum heads, stock, stage and TA blocks, various head gaskets, many types of intake gaskets, as well as machining the mating surfaces of these components, the end result can vary a great deal.

We have a "V" gauge to measure the block head angle to the intake, and machine the intake to fit. Sometimes the angle has to change, the ends of the intake may have to be milled, or sometimes the intake gasket thickness must be measured, and the proper gasket selected as port alignment must also be matched with the head intake ports.

This is where having done hundreds of turbo V-6 builds from stock to exotic provides the experience and knowledge for an excellent finished product as a few of the Buick engine builders have proven. Production engine shops do not have the inclination, or knowledge, in most cases for a reliable performance build.

 

[Jerryl]

. . . . Production engine shops do not have the inclination, or knowledge, in most cases for a reliable performance build.

In addition . . .
Production shops typically lack the pride and compassion . . . . .

 

[Ttype6]

Stock block champion aluminum heads with the champion race intake stamped OFC I noticed after I final torqued the intake I put a feeler gauge ".010" between intake and the rubber pan rail gasket...I had oil leaking and when I tore it apart I noticed oil on the rubber rail gaskets underneath and on top of the rubber gaskets, so when I put intake on today I used gray sealant that's rigid when dries, on the rail and put the rubbers on after it got a little tachy And a little more on top of the rubber gaskets so I torqued in sequence 10 20 32ftlb and decided to put a feeler gauge and sure as sh$t it went in "future leak again" My Question is this=do the stage motors or the t/a motors have a taller rail where the rubber strips go between heads or is my intake not right....champion says use 1200 gaskets but they didnt line up good and the felpro blue valley pan gasket lines up great....I'm guessing I'll have to load that rail with the gray sealant and get rid of the rubbers....not right but not to sure what it is the intake or what....ANY HELP OR ANSWERS would be great thanks for reading

I never use those rubber pieces. I use,only The Right Stuff. It comes in a can with a nozzle like a whipped cream can.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I never use those rubber pieces. I use,only The Right Stuff. It comes in a can with a nozzle like a whipped cream can.

And, it's recommended that "goo" and rubber gaskets not be used together.
As mentioned, throw the rubber away, and use only the goo.

And, what Nick said^^^^^^

 

[turbognx75]

Thanks gentleman I used the permatex ultra gray with no rubber gaskets hope it works I'll find out this weekend...I do appreciate ur help..

 

[fast400]

Guys,
I just did my intake using the rubber gaskets instead of total silicone. My question is...how much should the rubber gasket compress? The rubber has a raised lip along the top center. After torquing down the rubber is not compressed all the way down to the flat portion of the rubber. It's compressed, just not all the to the non-raised flat part of the rubber. Normal?

 

[dr_frankenstein]

ive always used the rubber and have never had a problem. factory put it there for a reason. just need to pay attention to the build like Nick states, everything has to work together correctly.

I think the silicone turd is a conspiracy from permatex to make you use more! thats why they "teach" it on those Hot Rod TV shows... ever notice the brand label showing when they make that huge turd of silicone?

just my .02$

 

[fast400]

Here's a pic of the rubber piece. It's not totally flat...normal?

 

[Pronto]

Nick, what is the stock angle of the heads, manifold? What tool is used to measure that angle?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Here's a pic of the rubber piece. It's not totally flat...normal?

Looks to me as tho the dr side intake face is not parallel with the head face.. Y/N??? Better pics of this, both sides, would help.