Introduction and question

[lightningdan]

Do the hot air cars have different internals? Or different block? What does ZDDP stand for?

Are hot air cars just finicky because of the electronics?

 

[highboostgn]

Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate

 

[highboostgn]

Can u believe the little bolt ons it takes to get a gn into the 11s!! Wish it was that cheap and easy on the lightnings!! Did u read this site yet? http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/ it's full of knowledge and allot of my questions were asked by reading!

hahaha "cheap" you say! lol wait to you break a few things.

 

[Rafs-T-Type]

Do the hot air cars have different internals? Or different block? What does ZDDP stand for?

Are hot air cars just finicky because of the electronics?

Hot air cars have a different block, and I imagine internals, but I am not completely sure. ZDDP is an additive you put in the oil. They don't make oil like they used to and this has caused many wiped cams on our cars. Depending on the mileage of your car you may want to check out how your cam is holding up. The ZDDP additive helps to bring your oil back to where it should be by adding stuff like zinc and phosphorus. An alternative is to buy oil with that stuff already in there such as Brad Penn oil.

 

[lightningdan]

Hot air cars have a different block, and I imagine internals, but I am not completely sure. ZDDP is an additive you put in the oil. They don't make oil like they used to and this has caused many wiped cams on our cars. Depending on the mileage of your car you may want to check out how your cam is holding up. The ZDDP additive helps to bring your oil back to where it should be by adding stuff like zinc and phosphorus. An alternative is to buy oil with that stuff already in there such as Brad Penn oil.

Thanks I thoughty the pervious post about what it stood for was a joke! Lol I understand now, I have read a few things about the cams wiping out quit frequently, say I can't find a brand near me with zddp in it already, how often do u put the ZDDP in and how much ?

 

[lightningdan]

hahaha "cheap" you say! lol wait to you break a few things.

I've been checking out a bunch of parts already and setting up a few bench racing combos lol, you need to see how much money it takes to get a 4500lb lightning in the 10's ( not being cocky ) but roughly costs 20k between built short block, ported heads, cams, fuel system, 3" long tube exhaust is 3100 bucks, built tranny ( 4500-4800 bucks!!! for the tranny ) depending on what supercharger brand new is roughly 5-6k, used u can get them for low 3k...

I can't believe the prices on extremeautomatics.com man I wish I went Buick a long time ago !! Lol

Roughly how much does it cost to get a Buick into the 10's I want to do it the safe way, I would tear the motor down put the forged rotating assembly, gridle, ect ect

Im loving this site, now that I have totally high jacked this poor guys thread, does anyone know where I can find threads on home porting the heads? Again thanks guys and to my fellow lightning brother I'm sorry

 

[Rafs-T-Type]

Thanks I thoughty the pervious post about what it stood for was a joke! Lol I understand now, I have read a few things about the cams wiping out quit frequently, say I can't find a brand near me with zddp in it already, how often do u put the ZDDP in and how much ?

One bottle every oil change. A bunch of vendors carry it. I know Kirbans does for sure.

 

[Rafs-T-Type]

I've been checking out a bunch of parts already and setting up a few bench racing combos lol, you need to see how much money it takes to get a 4500lb lightning in the 10's ( not being cocky ) but roughly costs 20k between built short block, ported heads, cams, fuel system, 3" long tube exhaust is 3100 bucks, built tranny ( 4500-4800 bucks!!! for the tranny ) depending on what supercharger brand new is roughly 5-6k, used u can get them for low 3k...

I can't believe the prices on extremeautomatics.com man I wish I went Buick a long time ago !! Lol

Roughly how much does it cost to get a Buick into the 10's I want to do it the safe way, I would tear the motor down put the forged rotating assembly, gridle, ect ect

Im loving this site, now that I have totally high jacked this poor guys thread, does anyone know where I can find threads on home porting the heads? Again thanks guys and to my fellow lightning brother I'm sorry

Safe is a relative word. For a forged shortblock you're probably looking at about 7k, give or take a few grand. After that cost really depends on which route you take. A good amount of stock unopened blocks have lived through many ten second passes. I would stick with the stock block as you build up your car and are learning so you don't end up blowing up your new high dollar motor. I probably wouldn't recommend home porting your heads. This may cause different air flows in different cylinders which may lead to a lean condition. If one of the cylinders ends up getting a lot less air the the others it will become rich and the computer may compensate by leaning out all the cylinders. I would just send them to champion to be cnc'ed.

 

[lightningdan]

Safe is a relative word. For a forged shortblock you're probably looking at about 7k, give or take a few grand. After that cost really depends on which route you take. A good amount of stock unopened blocks have lived through many ten second passes. I would stick with the stock block as you build up your car and are learning so you don't end up blowing up your new high dollar motor. I probably wouldn't recommend home porting your heads. This may cause different air flows in different cylinders which may lead to a lean condition. If one of the cylinders ends up getting a lot less air the the others it will become rich and the computer may compensate by leaning out all the cylinders. I would just send them to champion to be cnc'ed.

I like your thinking, why so much for a forged bottom end? Please don't take this as me being disrespectful and questioning you, am only asking because I have no clue and was surfing on fullthrottlespeed.com and found pistons and rods, roughing 700 for pistons and 600 for rods, bearings maybe 100-150buck, rings say another 150. I couldn't find a forged crank, and now you telling me how stock short blocks ran tens I think a stock crank is fine.

I'm only thinking this way because when I do find a car, if i end up getting one not built, I'm most likely going to pull the motor, send the heads to be ported, arp head bolts, and main cap studs, with the rjc girdle, 60mm series turbo, 210/210 non roller cam, new timing chain, with high out put oil pump, since the motor is all apart now, way not do rods and pistons, but if your saying a short block build is going to cost me 7k I dunno if I want to do that! LOL if s 10sec long block (with turbo, fuel system and supporting mods) is going to cost me 7k i understand that. I was just curious why it would cost me this much and appreciate all the advice you can give me

Thanks allot buddy, looking forward to your reply, I'm going to go look up champion now

 

[Rafs-T-Type]

I like your thinking, why so much for a forged bottom end? Please don't take this as me being disrespectful and questioning you, am only asking because I have no clue and was surfing on fullthrottlespeed.com and found pistons and rods, roughing 700 for pistons and 600 for rods, bearings maybe 100-150buck, rings say another 150. I couldn't find a forged crank, and now you telling me how stock short blocks ran tens I think a stock crank is fine.

I'm only thinking this way because when I do find a car, if i end up getting one not built, I'm most likely going to pull the motor, send the heads to be ported, arp head bolts, and main cap studs, with the rjc girdle, 60mm series turbo, 210/210 non roller cam, new timing chain, with high out put oil pump, since the motor is all apart now, way not do rods and pistons, but if your saying a short block build is going to cost me 7k I dunno if I want to do that! LOL if s 10sec long block (with turbo, fuel system and supporting mods) is going to cost me 7k i understand that. I was just curious why it would cost me this much and appreciate all the advice you can give me

Thanks allot buddy, looking forward to your reply, I'm going to go look up champion now

There is a ton of work that goes into proper assembly. Here's a common place to get a shortblock - http://www.weberpowerproducts.com/3...k-with-billet-caps-p/wre-sba10936255967dg.htm

 

[lightningdan]

There is a ton of work that goes into proper assembly. Here's a common place to get a shortblock - http://www.weberpowerproducts.com/3...k-with-billet-caps-p/wre-sba10936255967dg.htm

Wow ur not kidding!! Like u say to invest that money on my first setup might be scary If I do something wrong and blow it up... Does that company have stock displacement short blocks? I really am not interested in strokers right now being that I don't ever want to get the car any faster then low elevens and that glory 10pass

In all honesty do u don think forged piston and Rods are worth it if I have to rebuild my motor?

 

[lightningdan]

Again Rafs, thanks for taking the time and explaining everything

 

[Rafs-T-Type]

Wow ur not kidding!! Like u say to invest that money on my first setup might be scary If I do something wrong and blow it up... Does that company have stock displacement short blocks? I really am not interested in strokers right now being that I don't ever want to get the car any faster then low elevens and that glory 10pass

In all honesty do u don think forged piston and Rods are worth it if I have to rebuild my motor?

Didn't realize I linked a stroker...click on blocks on this link and it shows what they have http://www.weberpowerproducts.com/turbo-buick-engine-parts-s/1817.htm

As far as forged pistons and rods I don't think it would really be worth it unless you are going to beef up something else such as billet main caps or a girdle. On a stock rebuild the crank would probably let go before a connecting rod or piston. I am far from an expert though so don't read too far into what I say

 

[lightningdan]

Didn't realize I linked a stroker...click on blocks on this link and it shows what they have http://www.weberpowerproducts.com/turbo-buick-engine-parts-s/1817.htm

As far as forged pistons and rods I don't think it would really be worth it unless you are going to beef up something else such as billet main caps or a girdle. On a stock rebuild the crank would probably let go before a connecting rod or piston. I am far from an expert though so don't read too far into what I say

I understand what ur saying, I just fear stock stuff coming apart how do u like that 3200 stall converter for the street? When u take off in first gear accelerating like a normal car, does it seem like the tranny is slipping the whole time? I know with our trucks 24-2800 stall converters drive and feel like normal, but guys with anything higher don't drive on the street because of the lag, but I'm pretty sure they are 9" converters I think the bucks are using 10" I don't want to have a slipping feeling while I'm toying around with it on the street

 

[Rafs-T-Type]

My converter works fine on the street. It's real smooth. I don't know what size or brand it is though. I am not real sure what the stall is either. The engine builder put it in, and by the time I started asking questions he closed shop. It is a non-lock converter though. I know that much lol.