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is a stroker kit worth it?

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let him work the set up he already has. I don't understand how guys can just throw out $$$$ when they can do what they want with what they have. :rolleyes:
Maybe go to a TA alum block and their new heads. Hell with these other guys in here. :p

Reading these boards everyday gets people to spend crazy azz $$$ (myself included) & some lose perspective of what their real goals are. They want it easy & not have to work at tuning in many cases. Just buy it, install it & run 10's, but it never works likes that. We lose our patience & spend more $$$ again. Thats why its called Black Crack! ;)
Only took me 25 years to learn it & you didnt overnite either.
These cars make people do weird things! :)
 
hello people; "Black crack" that's a good way to put things. But with speed and toys it's always the way. with $$$$ that is.
IBBY
 
A local here did a stroker a year ago and said he would never ever do it again. Too much extra money for the return. His opinion not mine. With that said his car is way fast on low boost.
 
well i think ill listen to grumpy and see what it can do as is. i havent ran the car with this setup yet

Thats the BEST Idea for you. Run it, tune it to the max & get everything out of it before upgrading. You just may be surprised what you get with some patience & practice.
I hope it goes much better than you anticipated.
 
Hi. My name is Toomanymodz and I am addicted to crack. I need to change my name to Toomanybillz. I'm throwing huge bucks at a new stroker engine and I hope it's worth it after reading this thread. Perhaps I should of went 'all out' and opted for the TA aluminum block, that way I'd be 'broker' and not just 'broke'.
 
Listen to Grumpy..... you don't need no stinkin stroker to go mid 10's..... that has been done years ago by Tim Stockwell with an unopened long block.

With the parts you have.... a good 60'...... low to mid 20's on boost....mid 10's ought to be within a resonable grasp... even on pump gas and alky. Save your money for rear tires!
 
YUP...KISS...I have put to much dam money into my car and when it does blow up one day I will just put in another stocker motor with forged pistons and a cam and call it a day...I got college to pay for, so stroker or billet motor is Yeaaaaaars away for me...:biggrin:
 
As you can see you'll get various advice. I say if you can afford it, go for it. It's your car. Your car should easily be capable of achieving your goals without a stroker though.
 
You old guys:mad:

"KISS"
"tune for no knock"
"cool guy parts"

You guys are too funny not every one can tune. For example ME.:mad:
 
Stroker

If you have not built the motor I would say STROKER. I had similar goals(10.50’s) when I started my "Light Rebuild" :rolleyes:. I was going to use stock crank and rods and pretty much everything else you are using except I’m using diamond pistons and a 218/212 cam. When my engine builder called and asked what were my goals, I told him 10.50. He told me he would build it using the stock stuff but would not advise it. :wink: He told me to at least jump up to the forged crank and rods. I figured if I’m going to go with the forged crank and rods, I might as well go with the Stroker Kit. It only cost an extra $200 dollars worth of block work. I think this was the cheapest HP I got due to the extra cubes. No matter what, I would not attempt to build it with the stock stuff looking for the times you mentioned. ;) I also just wanted the COOL FACTOR too. :biggrin:
 
hello people; I agree with all posted so far and with me I always wanted a stroked HD. I've ridden a few but I have not owned one. My crank was acceptable but I wanted the stroke.
I use to have a T-shirt that read " If you want more inches STROKE it"
let's see what happens
keep on
IBBY
 
You old guys:mad:

"KISS"
"tune for no knock"
"cool guy parts"

You guys are too funny not every one can tune. For example ME.:mad:

well way back in 86/87 you had to teach yourself tuning because there wasn't really any help out there at that time. We just "played" with the stock stuff an added a chip , exhaust and tires.. oh a K&N to. ran race gas . So you would just do 1 thing at a time.. IF it didn't work just take out what ya did.. same thing goin today .. Hell chips are unreal now compared what we had in the beginning. Now you have all sorts of tuning tools. BUT I think it gives some people way to much info they have no idea what to do with it. If you play with the car with no knock it shouldn't go BOOOOOM like you say :p But remember the motor is one thing but the rest of the car has to be up for the beatings to.
..ok .. sermon is over. everyone get up off their knees :biggrin:
 
The stroker setup is fun for sure. Harder on tires, but that's ok....lol
I ran 12.9 at 105mph at 7psi if that helps your decision at all. :)

That's pretty good, what turbo was that? I went the same with 12psi on the stock turbo on a 40'C day and letting it shift under 5k. Couldn't leave with any boost the track was too greasy at those temps.
 
I have various seen opinions on this subject, but no real data to back it up. The little I have seen posted always includes other mods and upgrades which will not give a valid comparison. :confused:

As far as major gains, I have not experienced any by stroking the V-6 Buick. The little increase I found in the high 9's was about a tenth in the 1/4 mile.

My first build on the TA alum engine was a 3.625" BMS stroke crank. When that crank broke at the no.1 rod journal, I installed a China stock stroke forged crank to do some durability testing which lasted 2 years. Then went back to a 3.625" stroke. All these builds had the same heads, turbo, cam and compression.

This is where I come up with only a small difference in power. My RPM's are always in the high 6000's where it would be most beneficial.

With the Buicks, the spool I have experienced in short stroke vs. longer stroke has not been any different? Only have a few GN comparisons, but personally could not tell any difference, and I run lots of races with .4ths pro tree. :smile:

Also, I have "messed" with a few 4.1 production blocks which were street/race builds and they have ALL shown major increases in torque and HP, and I have verified numbers from track experience too. In the bore vs. stroke contest, bore will win in the turbo Buick world. :biggrin:

Certainly, more cubes will give you more power, but not major from stroking a 3.8 when playing on the street, and only a little at the track unless you get into the higher RPM range.

Just a side note, when I removed the China crank after almost 300 runs, it looked and checked out as good as when installed. :cool:

My next build will be back to a stock stroke crank, as I do like the response better for racing.

Most racers have found this especially when they use increased valve spacing and run a a larger intake valve. Any one doubting this take a look at a Pro Stock block.
 
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