It's almost winter and I need to recharge my AC

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d0n_3d

Boost is good.
Joined
Jul 14, 2001
Messages
4,740
I know this sounds crazy but I need to get my AC system charged. I'm replacing my compressor and need to have the system charged again. I know R12 is illegal now...what is a direct replacement where I don't have to change anything? I heard there's RB246 or Freeze 12? Will those harm anything without any changes? And how much do I need exactly? Isn't it 52 oz.?
 
r-12 isnt really "illegal" its just been phased out due to being harmful for the enviroment. if you are changing the compressor then i would change the oil, drier, and orfice and then use r-134a. all these parts are redially advaible at any local parts store...
 
You can still find R12 but It's pretty high. If your on a budget, R134a like stated above will work just fine and is easy to run across.
 
SVORay said:
You can still find R12 but It's pretty high. If your on a budget, R134a like stated above will work just fine.
pretty high,, 30,00 bucks for 12 ounce can, there is plenty of r-12 you just have to have a license to purchase , i have a friend that installs and repairs air cond, and furnaces and he dont have any trouble buying R-12 good luck oc,
 
ok, go to ebay #290039142381 i dont know how to post links, maby someone else will. the parts store will sell this kit too (to save shipping) if you dont want to replace the drier (recommended) pull a good vacuum for at least a couple of hours. i would still change out the orfice (about 2$ at parts store) :D
 
odell4o8 said:
pretty high,, 30,00 bucks for 12 ounce can, there is plenty of r-12 you just have to have a license to purchase , i have a friend that installs and repairs air cond, and furnaces and he dont have any trouble buying R-12 good luck oc,

It's been a long time since I've had to worry about buying R12 but thats about how much it ran. Keep in mind you probaly need two pounds per car which comes out to 60.00 - 70.00 bux. Plus, you don't have to have a LIC in order to buy R134a. I had to use a friends LIC in order to get it as well, via mail order ;) Thats pretty high compared to 4.00 - 7.00 bux a pound for R134a. I think most people stray away from R134a because of It running warm during stop and go traffic on older cars. R134a works great...come sit in my Harley or Tahoe and it will freeze your nuts off while being parked and they both use R134a. The reason is, that pice up front in your grille by the radiator isn't designed for R134a while it is on newer cars. I guess you could swap that pice from a newer vehicle but I'm not sure. As much as I drive or plan to drive my Buick, I can live with R134a. It's purley up to the owner what they can live or not live with.

Good luck.
 
RB-276 refrigerant

I would use RB-276 if at all possible, Iv'e put it in four GN's already including mine and all the other people that I changed over to it LOVE IT!! ask TurboDave here on this board what he thinks of both his cars. It has the same dew point & bubble point as R-12. Even better than R-12 at high temperatures. With RB-276 you DO NOT! I repete DO NOT! have to change oil or orrifices or anything. it is a direct drop in refrigerant for 134a, R-12, 502 and is ozone friendly, non toxic, non flamable. All you have to do is recover any of your old refrigerant left in your system, pull a good vacuum on the system (1-2hrs) then weigh in the RB-276 to just under the orriginal recomended amount. wich is 3.25lbs on our GN's or t-type's. I usually put 3.00lbs in and it works great. In my car on a 92deg day I had 46deg air coming out of my vents at 65mph. WAY BETTER than 134a in a system designed to run R-12, In new vehicals the system is designed to run 134a and that is why they work good..... Scot w.
 
didnt realize you are from valpo. im about 45 minutes from you. com over and i will do it for free.....hows that for savin some money...
 
d0n_3d said:
Where do you find the RB276? This sounds like what I want to do.

Hoping Scot will chime back in because I think (if I remember right), there's another number it's known by... "something" 420, or 420"something". I can't remember. It's just another name for 276 and is the same stuff.

Sure woke up my A/C systems!! And did not have to retrfit over to the R134 crap.
 
Use R-12 if you can get/afford it. In these old cars that use the R4 compressor it will work better than any of the others on a really hot day. I live in Texas where 100+days can come 10 in a row and that's when you can tell that 134a is not as good as R12 in our cars. Again, as stated before replace the dryer and orfice tube and, of course, find out why your old R12 leaked out and pull a pump down vacuum test for at least and hour before you add the R12 or 134a.
 
d0n_3d said:
Where do you find the RB276? This sounds like what I want to do.

Dido

Also, is there something you can buy to vacume out your system. Don't care to have any shops work around my GN. Thanks, Brian
 
Fuelie600 said:
Dido

Also, is there something you can buy to vacume out your system. Don't care to have any shops work around my GN. Thanks, Brian
1) usually auto parts stores rent tools out
2) rent one from tool rental place
3) find someone who works on A/C stuff and become his friend
4) a air compressor is a vacuum pump. just somehow hook up the intake of the air compressor (where the air filter is) to the A/C system and presto....
 
If u know someone wit a license O' Riely auto parts has the R 12, u just gotta ask for it and of course the license thing.
 
d0n_3d said:
Where do you find the RB276? This sounds like what I want to do.
Sorry for the delay on getting back to you guys, The RB-276 (R-420A) can be bought at a A/C supply store for ( $300 ) for a 20lb jug wich comes out to roughly $12.00 a pound for the refigerant. or you could call up a A/C, Refrigeration tech in your phone book and just ask if they have RB-276/ R-420A and if they do, then have them come over and take off the 134a adapters and evacuate your system, pull a GOOD vacuum, then weigh in the charge (3.0lbs) and your done. Scot w.
 
REM3200 said:
Use R-12 if you can get/afford it. In these old cars that use the R4 compressor it will work better than any of the others on a really hot day. I live in Texas where 100+days can come 10 in a row and that's when you can tell that 134a is not as good as R12 in our cars. Again, as stated before replace the dryer and orfice tube and, of course, find out why your old R12 leaked out and pull a pump down vacuum test for at least and hour before you add the R12 or 134a.
Not really true! at lets say 110deg to 120deg R-12 and RB-276 are the same (EXACTLY) on my chart and as the temp goes up from there RB-276 cools BETTER!
at 110deg here is the comparison of refigerants below.

110deg / choice R-420a (RB-276) / R-12 / HFC-134a

110deg / ----- 131.1 -------- / 136.4 / ---146.8

There is the differance in how these refigerants run. Scot w.
 
oddfire6 said:
1) usually auto parts stores rent tools out
2) rent one from tool rental place
3) find someone who works on A/C stuff and become his friend
4) a air compressor is a vacuum pump. just somehow hook up the intake of the air compressor (where the air filter is) to the A/C system and presto....
NONE OF THE ABOVE!! A good vacuum of 30 microns should at least be pulled, anyone good who knows A/C should have a pump and gauges and once the vacuum is pulled that is when you should add the refigerant..
 
scot w. said:
Sorry for the delay on getting back to you guys, The RB-276 (R-420A) can be bought at a A/C supply store for ( $300 ) for a 20lb jug wich comes out to roughly $12.00 a pound for the refigerant. or you could call up a A/C, Refrigeration tech in your phone book and just ask if they have RB-276/ R-420A and if they do, then have them come over and take off the 134a adapters and evacuate your system, pull a GOOD vacuum, then weigh in the charge (3.0lbs) and your done. Scot w.
i doubt he wants to spend the 300$ for the 20lb jug and have 17lbs left over just sitting around. besides he probably needs to be certified to buy and it will still cost him 300$ to have a service tech com out to do the work, i doubt he wants to do this also... :rolleyes:
 
scot w. said:
NONE OF THE ABOVE!! A good vacuum of 30 microns should at least be pulled, anyone good who knows A/C should have a pump and gauges and once the vacuum is pulled that is when you should add the refigerant..
you mean to tell me he couldnt become friends with someone and borrow his pump. #4 was meant as a joke. and actually 29HG is the norm, then break the vacuum with nitrogen, then 500 micron vacuum, then vacuum hold test then the recharge...
 
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