New guy, Help me spec my resto build!

[Nigel]

Alright, I’m following along. Adding the MAF, translator, timing chain/gear, header repair, and lines/hoses. I’d be fine leaving the setup as is, but since that’s not an option I figured I’d go “warm” with the build, nothing too extreme. For instance I’m not aiming for a power level that will require a built trans and all.

Looks like my project just grew a couple grand but that’s the way the cookie crumbles. I love this thing, I want to reflect that in the build.

Scoob gave a good list to get the car back to good reliable running condition. It is hard to resist, but before doing anything to improve performance, get it perfect in stock form. Get a handle on tuning, a power logger with a wideband is essential. Really get to know how everything works. To me it is worth the journey, so just a recommendation.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

One last thing. As soon as you add a little HP the trans will start slipping on the 2-3 shift...as it's the weak link. Remember what I said about a 2nd job.

 

[Pronto]

You should slow you're roll. Since it's hasn't been running much, I would pull the fuel tank and clean it out. While out replace the fp with a 255 Racetronix. Replace fuel filter and flush the lines. Injectors are probably gummed up, chip is unknown so it would be a good idea to swap them out to 60s and TT chip. Be honest with Eric on your mods. His chip will be damn close to what you need. If it doesn't have a Scanmaster get one. For now leave the MAF. It's low miles and probably OK. Change the oil and flush the radiator. That would be a good starting point to see what you have.

 

[BagliviNY]

This is all stellar advice, guys thank you.

So I just sent this total list to my shop/friend, to be done over time. Lemme see if I got this right:

So far I have ordered:
-GN1 3” Dual Exhaust
-GN1 3” Downpipe (internal wastegate)
-GN1 3” Cutout

To order:

From Turbo Tweak:
-60# Injectors
-New chip
-Optional: LT1 3” MAF and translator (may postpone)
-Scanmaster 2.1

From Kirban:
- Billet Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (if current Accufab is leaking, or you think gummed up)

From Jegs:
-Single roller stock replacement timing chain/gears (all metal pref. Billet)


Undecided:
-Holley 350lph tank, pump and relay
Or
-Stock replacement tank, 255lph Racetronix pump, Hotwire relay kit


Needed:
-Install all above
-New K&N cone filter + install
-Comp 981 Valve Springs (12) + install
-Toyo R888R mount balance 245 and 255s
-ACDelco R34TS plugs + install
-Weld drivers side headed (mild stainless)
-All fluid flush and refill (need high zinc oil or additive; Valvoline V5, Rotella T4, etc)
-Fuel line and filter
-Vacuum hoses
-Gaskets?
-Radiator cleaning/flush

 

[V6sleeper]

Racetronix set up for sure, you may have fitment issues with the gn1 dp, Rjc or Ta performance is preferred and american made,
Double roller Rollmaster chain set , Call Full Throttle Speed
Kirban billet fpr is preferred over the Accufab, also Racetronix makes a new one thats really good
3" is not really needed there will be extra noise, drone and less back pressure, 2.5 is good to well over 700hp
60s TT chip , 3.5 maf and translator is ideal for these cars.

Once the car is running spot on there are a few things to do after that to improve performance reliably with the stock turbo but we can take it from there after that.

 

[BagliviNY]

Well crud I already ordered the GN1 bits. Main selling point for me was the 304 stainless vs 409 for the others. I wonder if I can cancel that order and go RJC, it’s supposed to ship tomorrow. Will update with the other items.

 

[deezdad]

Hey how's it going.. a smart Buick guy once told me that before you start a car that's been sitting for that length of time to drain the oil, fill with 20 quarts of bargain oil, don't start it lol, drain it all, then refill with proper amount of quality oil of your choice, my advice use something good with zddp already in it, royal purple hps & amsoil zrod are both good, there are many others. Enjoy your car congrats!

 

[Pronto]

TT chip requires 43psi fuel pressure so you will need that adjustable fpr. I would leave the exhaust stock for now. If you can delete the cat, just pull it off and gut it. You don't need a new fuel tank, just a good cleanout. Unless you can hear a leak, the header is probably not cracked on a 5k mile car. You mention the turbo was ported, they probably ported the elbow which is good. For 16psi boost you don't need a downpipe either. No need to get rid of low mile items just yet. Get it up and running clean and reliably before you start thinking of mods. Once you're at that point you can make more decisions on how fast you want to go. Since it low miles, I would just keep it as low modded as possible. There's plenty of mods to do and still look very stock. In it's current state with every thing up to snuff low 14s/ high 13 should be the goal. Be careful pulling the boots off the sparkplugs with those wires. They look like Magnecores which tended to pull apart.

 

[salvageV6]

I would do what Pronto said to get it started. How is the electrical systems on the car? Lights come on good battery, all the proper lights come on in the dash in the test mode just before cranking? Starter work? Anti-theft system work properly if equipped?
When installing the new chip pop an ECM connector off and look for any corrosion on the ECM pins and also the ECM plug connectors.
Check every fuse as well.

 

[BagliviNY]

TT chip requires 43psi fuel pressure so you will need that adjustable fpr. I would leave the exhaust stock for now. If you can delete the cat, just pull it off and gut it. You don't need a new fuel tank, just a good cleanout. Unless you can hear a leak, the header is probably not cracked on a 5k mile car. You mention the turbo was ported, they probably ported the elbow which is good. For 16psi boost you don't need a downpipe either. No need to get rid of low mile items just yet. Get it up and running clean and reliably before you start thinking of mods. Once you're at that point you can make more decisions on how fast you want to go. Since it low miles, I would just keep it as low modded as possible. There's plenty of mods to do and still look very stock. In it's current state with every thing up to snuff low 14s/ high 13 should be the goal. Be careful pulling the boots off the sparkplugs with those wires. They look like Magnecores which tended to pull apart.

Also great tips. Yeah the exhaust I’m less replacing because I want to, more because it’s rotted through in a few spots. Rest of the car is bone dry and spotless underneath, but the stock exhaust has holes for some reason, so it’s gotta go. I’m going to swap to the RJC setup, trying to cancel the GN1.

Agreed though, just want to get her out on the road, not looking to burn up the track at the moment. Just trying to find the wisest path so I’m not replacing things I’m just installing now. One and done.

 

[BagliviNY]

I would do what Pronto said to get it started. How is the electrical systems on the car? Lights come on good battery, all the proper lights come on in the dash in the test mode just before cranking? Starter work? Anti-theft system work properly if equipped?
When installing the new chip pop an ECM connector off and look for any corrosion on the ECM pins and also the ECM plug connectors.
Check every fuse as well.

Hard to say, has a new battery, harnesses look good, everything lights up, security light I think blinks or stays on (something to look at) of course haven’t tried cranking. I left room in the budget for electrical, but seems in good order. Prior owner loved this car and took care of it, but sadly has Parkinson’s so hasn’t been able to take it out or run it, hence sitting parked in a garage.

 

[salvageV6]

Looks to me the coil has been changed to the offset newer style, is that blue fuel regulator adjustable?

 

[BagliviNY]

Looks to me the coil has been changed to the offset newer style, is that blue fuel regulator adjustable?

Yes that’s an old style Accufab FPR, but I’m assuming it’s also gummed up so bad planned the Kirban unit. Also hate the blue, as nitpicky as that is.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

If you're able to switch the order, grab this distribution plate from Jason.

A.D. Power Plate

rjcracing.com

 

[salvageV6]

Probably a Kenne Bell unit, nice. They are a simple device rebuildable and cleanable but a new one will work out fine.

 

[Pronto]

The holes probably came from the PO just starting it and letting it idle. Moisture just sits in the mufflers and eventually rots them. I agree, not a fan of the blue fpr. Yes to the Power Plate! Search the ads for a billet turbo bell. They flowed a little more.

 

[Anthony P]

... a smart Buick guy once told me that before you start a car that's been sitting for that length of time to drain the oil, fill with 20 quarts of bargain oil, don't start it lol, drain it all, then refill with proper amount of quality oil of your choice....

yes, the wisdom of RC. with 20 - 22 qts, the lifters will get saturated / filled while the cam will get a bath. hence no dry start potential damage from sitting for a decade.

remember you have a flat tappet cam. take care of it noting whatever engine oil you choose, the level of zddp either has to come in the oil as deezdad noted or you have to add it if using todays API SN grade. A 10W-30 weight oil is the choice.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Check what 15-40 Rotella has in it. Some shmuck up in Canada with a flat tappet used it exclusively at 6 grand all day with a Wix filter.

 

[V6sleeper]

Any oil that you choose has the Minimum of 1200 ppm of zinc in it.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Guys, this is all a huge help. Scooby Doo thank you for the breakdown. I’m located in White Plains, NY to answer that question. I’ll take better pics of the engine bay, and the turbo hot side when we pull the DP, here’s a couple quick ones from when I first saw the car:
View attachment 391739
View attachment 391741

I am not far from you.
You should bring me the car.
I can help you from things that are unnecessary.