Its winter and cant wait to get to the track.......


Apr 29, 2015
So sitting here wondering what I might run at the track now that all of this is installed and running good. Any guesses? Is there anything else I might need?

PTE GEN2 PT6466 CEA Turbocharger
PTE HD Wastegate Actuator
PTE Turbo Saver Remote Oil Filter Relocation Kit
Alkycontrol Methanol Injection System
Eric Marshall TurboTweak Chip
Siemens 60lb Fuel Injectors
Powerlogger Scanmaster 2.1
PTE Super Stock Location Intercooler
Accufab 70mm Throttle Body
PTE Ported Intake Plenum
RJC PCV Check Valve
TA Performance 3" Stainless Steel Downpipe
Internal Gate Performance Headers
Cat Back Exhaust
Accufab BREG Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
TR Custom Parts Big Mouth Cold Air Intake and MAF tubing
MAF Translator
Racetronix 340lph Fuel Pump Sender Assembly
Racetronix Fuel Pump Hotwire Harness
PTC GN Spec Lockup Torque Converter
Extreme Automatics Lonnie Diers Built Stage 3 200-4R Transmission with electronic trans brake and external cooler
GBody Parts 3.5" Aluminum Driveshaft Driveshaft Safety Loop
Moser 28 Spline Axles
TA Performance Low Profile Differential Girdle
HRPartsNStuff Super Swaybar and Control Arms
GBody Parts Vacuum Brake Conversion
GNNW Spec Upgraded Pads / Rotors GNNW Spec Upgraded Rear Brakes (S10 Cylinders)
Alradco Aluminum Radiator Alradco Dual SPAL Cooling Fan Kit
GBody Parts Mini Starter Kit PowerMaster 200A Chrome Alternator -
Turbo Buick NOS Serpentine Belt Tensioner Highway Stars Replacement OEM Ignition Module /
Coil Pack Magnecor KV85 Spark Plug Wires
Hurst Line Lock
all on a 275X50X15 ET Street
I will tell you this. Anytime my car sits for more than two weeks in the garage, I always have a problem with something. These engines just know how to push all the buttons.

You could run 9's, but it all has to work together along with suspension/launch/tune. What kind of bottom end?
My mustang has the same issue, the longer she sits the more issues. As for the GN bottom it's all stock, only 70k miles on her. Im pretty sure I playing with fire with this. But done right and if I don't go bat shit crazy, I think she should be ok for awhile. I hope
Stock heads and cam? If so, get a 275/60 tire and you might have boost issues with that turbo. That is a lot of turbo for a stock engine, it is going to be hard to lower the boost.
Not to sound negative but I don't think you'll be able to make it past the 1000' without hurting something based on the parts listed. The turbo will run away on you, the converter won't work well, 93/alky tuning window is very narrow, assuming non closed loop wide open throttle fueling, valves will float, etc

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Bison- what makes you say that the converter won't work well, when we built the combo I was told this the correct combo to go with. I'm aware the turbo is a bit overkill. I know I'm pushing the limits of the stock rotating assembly but isn't that what we do? As its winter time here I guess we will all have to play coulda shoulda woulda till spring. Thanks for the input, it's well received. That's why we have this forum. :angelic:
I've posted many times about this before. If you have a 15 or 16 blade stator 9.5" race converter you will be gtg. You won't be able to couple anywhere near the potential of that turbo even if you can gain control of the exhaust pressure with the internal gate. Stock engine needs to be well under 5000rpm through most of a pass to move the car. Usually flash stall in the low 4000's. I don't see that happening with a 10" LU. The converter will aggravate the engine efficiency by flashing too high. Even with boost in the low 20's it will likely be high 4000's. You won't even be able to be pushing the limits of the stock rotating assembly with stock heads. Not even close. I'm speaking from experience and actual data I've obtained over the years.

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I don't see anything regarding the internals being upgraded, so can I safely assume an unopened engine? That is a lot of turbo for an unopened motor.
And the scary thing is that without ported heads, you will need to crank up the boost, which will flex the crank. If you take it to the track, I would trailer it and be prepared for the worst.
I would sell the 6466 and get something more fitting to your car. Maybe you can ask the likes of Hartline, Bison, or even Full Throttle for a suited turbo for your set up. Getting the properly fitted turbo, you will see a more responsive vehicle and will be more fun on the street. Nothing like stabbing the throttle and be in instant boost... I call it "Insta-boost"
I have a litle big turbo Whit factory portee head and 1.77 intake valve Whit lockup converter so is big Turbo for my combo súper 60 turbonetic 70 ar
I have a 60e BB h70-65 turbonetic Whit factory portet head 1.77 int.valve you think is big turbo for mi combo hidráulic CAM 206-206 95 inyectors