I've got a problem,anybody have an answer?

[asrnj77]

This post involves several under hood related issues so bear with me. First issue was me bombing the emissions test. I used a TT emissions chip and I noticed something unusual. With the previous street TT chip my fuel pressure was low and would drop off right after I turned off the car so it was cranked way up. Now with the emissions chip the fuel pressure stays up like it should and I had to lower it the pressure back down. It seemed weird that the chip seemed to fix my fuel pressure problem...but it did...so take the test and the car is making a throbbing noise like a vaccum leak. It fails with slightly too much HC but does very well on CO (0.0) and fails the N0x with more than double the legal amount. So all signs point towards EGR. We do a vacuum leak test with an air hose and it sounded like air was leaking around the EGR but couldn't find anything. So I assume the EGR is gummed up and take it off to clean it but it isn't that dirty. I clean the whole thing and check the ports..they aren't bad. Put it all back together and test the EGR by pressing on the diaphragm and....nothing...it doesn't do a thing. So the EGR itself seems to work and the emissions chip is telling it to run but now I am confused....also the BLMs were at 112. We messed around a little with the fp (it's at 38lbs line off). Once I go to put the car in gear I have to quickly flutter the peddle. If I just put it in drive or reverse it will stall right out. If I flutter the pedal it will "catch" and then its fine and I can drive wherever. Also once I have it in drive the BLM's go to 128. I'm going to try emissions again tomorrow with my free retest and alky in tank but there is something else going on here. Any ideas? Thanks

 

[BlackBandit]

Your power plate may not be drilled for the EGR.

 

[JST A 6]

We do a vacuum leak test with an air hose and it sounded like air was leaking around the EGR but couldn't find anything.

How do the vacuum lines around the EGR valve look? I remember before I pulled that stuff off of my car the line was dry rotted where it connected to the EGR valve and did not fit tightly. Also make sure your little plastic check valves in the vacuum lines work by trying to blow through them both ways. If you can blow through them both ways they're bad.

 

[whitecobra98]

if u have a cat r u sure its not gutted? I struggled with the same thing

 

[Blazer406]

IMHO... the chip had absolutely nothing to do with your FP staying up after the car was shut down. That is either the check valve in the fuel pump... or a leaky injector.

Also... I am sure you already know... but I'll bring it up anyway.... you said your BLM's were at 112.... now they are at 128. How much driving did you do before you noticed the 128?

You mention the car going dead when you put it in gear. What is the IAC values when hot idling? TPS value idling?

 

[notacarlo]

I have noticed a lot of TPS/IAC issues lately.

 

[asrnj77]

IMHO... the chip had absolutely nothing to do with your FP staying up after the car was shut down. That is either the check valve in the fuel pump... or a leaky injector.

Also... I am sure you already know... but I'll bring it up anyway.... you said your BLM's were at 112.... now they are at 128. How much driving did you do before you noticed the 128?

You mention the car going dead when you put it in gear. What is the IAC values when hot idling? TPS value idling?

I appreciate all the advice...I'm trying to get everything squared away. The BLM's were at 112 in idle...idling about 10 minutes and then once I got it in gear it went to 128. If I put it back in park it would swing back to 112-114. Not sure if it means anything but my stock tach guage shows double what my actual motor is spinning at (so 2100rpm looks like 4200 on my stock light bar).
I have another fuel pump that I'll likely switch out soon. Still don't know why the intitial load of going into gear stalls it. Just a quick flutter and its good to go by why can't it take that drop? The idle is jumping between 1000-1200

 

[turbojd]

If you put vacuum to the EGR does it hold it?

 

[Blazer406]

I appreciate all the advice...I'm trying to get everything squared away. The BLM's were at 112 in idle...idling about 10 minutes and then once I got it in gear it went to 128. If I put it back in park it would swing back to 112-114. Not sure if it means anything but my stock tach guage shows double what my actual motor is spinning at (so 2100rpm looks like 4200 on my stock light bar).
I have another fuel pump that I'll likely switch out soon. Still don't know why the intitial load of going into gear stalls it. Just a quick flutter and its good to go by why can't it take that drop? The idle is jumping between 1000-1200

The reason it went to 128 is that was a different BLM cell. When you change chips.... it takes about 15 min of stop and go griving for it to re-learn what the car wants. On a chip change all cells start off at 128. There are 16 BLM cells.... each corresponding to a different engine load and/or RPM. When you let it idle.... she had "learned" and adjusted THAT cell to 112. When you put it in gear.... it had moved to another cell that it hadn't "learned" yet after the chip change.... hence the 128.

The stalling could be several things.... but high on the list would be checking the IAC values and TPS values to make sure they are where they need to be.

The fact that it had trimmed the BLM's to 112 idling.... isn't good.... the ecm is pulling quite a bit of fuel...... the next question is why? Was the car idling when you mention the FP being way to high.... then backing it down at some point?