just installed rear main seal,have a ????

[fugitive]

i installed a new rear main seal and read in the tech section at gnttype that you should rotate the seal 1/4 rotation.i didnt do this, i have the top seal ends flush with the bottom of the block and the same with the seal in the main cap.should i pull the main cap back off and rotate it or just leave it alone?is there a better chance it will leak oil again if i dont.i dont have the oil pan yet so its no big deal to pull it off besides squeezing the rtv back in the sides again. thanks

 

[Red Regal T]

I couldn't say whether it will leak or not. I guess it's up to you if you want to do the work and repeat yourself. Not that hard to clean off the cap and reshoot the sealant in.

 

[fugitive]

so is that a yes i should take it out??

 

[Red Regal T]

What I'm saying is it's up to you. Another consideration is, in the event it does leak, you can just do the whole thing over. Not that much more work. Do you feel lucky?

 

[TurboToy]

ALSO BETWEEN THE CAP AND THE BLOCK WHERE THE BOLT IS ON ITHER SIDE WHERE IT IS METAL TO METAL I PUT ANTIROBIC SEALER TO KEEP ANYCHANCE OF OIL LEAKS SO FAR SO GOOD

TURBOTOY

 

[2QUIK6]

Just to make sure you read that right, its just a 1/8 to 1/4" that you rotate the seal, not a 1/4 rotation. This is just so that the seal ends aren't meeting in the exact spot where the end cap surface is. If you put a dab of sealant on the end cap surface you should be fine, but like mentioned above, if you don't have the pan on, I'd go ahead a pull the cap back off, clean it up, rotate the seal slightly and put it back together. Should only take about an hour to do that verses a whole day to do it over.

The key to no leaks is letting the sealent on the end cap try completely and thoroughly before running again. I let mine sit for over 24 hrs before putting the pan back on to make sure it got all the air it could to cure. Also make sure the pan gasket is very clean and the pan surfaces/black is very clean of any oil and it should not leak, even with the dreaded rubber pan gasket that everyone claims leaks, I didn't have a problem.
Tie the pan gasket to the pan with fine string, once you get the pan in place with a few bolts, cut the string at the various points and tighten up the pan then, this way the gasket stays put when putting the pan up and keeps any oil from getting on it. No sealant on pan gasket, just a dab of it where the front cover meets the block and where the end cap surface meets the block.

 

[fugitive]

whats this antirobic sealer?i just put a thin film of black rtv on top of the main cap and squeezed it in the sides.should i get this sealer and use it instead of the rtv for in the side cavities of the main as well?do most parts stores carry this sealant?im headed to big A and napa tommorrow so i want to get everything i need. thanks for the help

 

[TurboToy]

u can use either or the antirobic sealer is for metal on metal sealing i have seen it leak out of the cap where it meets the block before that why i use this sealer.. turbotoy

 

[fugitive]

did you use this for the side cavities also?and is it pretty common at the parts stores. thanks

 

[TurboToy]

no the antirobic sealer is just for metel to metal surfaces only you may be able to get it at a orileys but i know dealers carry it we use it on caddy northstar engines for the lower crankcases thats the only way to seal it. turbotoy

 

[fugitive]

so you just put it on the metal to metal surfaces and still use the rtv for the side cavities right??and i should be able to buy it at gm parts counter if i cant find it at a parts store.how much does it usually run? thanks for the help

 

[fugitive]

forgot to ask who makes it ?or is there a certain brand of this sealer,just in case i have to order from a parts store.

 

[TurboToy]

DON'T REMEMBER THE BRAND NAME JUST ASK FOR ANTIROBIC SEALER AND BECAREFUL IT SMELLS AND LOOKS JUST LIKE STRAWBERRY JELLY TURBOTOY

 

[2QUIK6]

Anerobic sealer is better because it does not need air to cure. Regular sealer will work, it just takes longer to cure. Regular sealer will work for metal to metal, just like what is used for an intake, its just in the side cavities, there is so much of it, it does not thoroughly cure all the way thru in a short amount of time. Dealerships use it because they don't have 3 days to let the car setup on the lift and dry. BTW, don't use blue or clear sealers, use Ultra-Black if you don't find the anerobic stuff....I didn't find the anerobic stuff at any parts store and no one there even knoew what it was. The only part#s I found was for Gasket Maker 1052943 or 1052756.

 

[fugitive]

i checked the permatex website and they have a anaerobic gasket maker and anaerobic flange sealant what ever the difference is i dont know but maybe i can order it thru a parts store if they dont stock it since most stores atleast sell permatex products.should i even check at the gm dealer,i didnt even think they sold stuff like this.i hate going there and asking them for something without exactly knowing the name or brand because then it will be a all day project explaining it and him trying to find it.

 

[MSDGN]

I would just leave it alone...if you put some RTV on the cap mating surfaces it should be OK...I did the same on the motor I'm building... I forgot to rotate the seal but I did put RTV on the cap surfaces...if it leaks it will be minimal...I have too many other things to think about before firing the new motor up....

 

[Lee Thompson]

sealer

The sealer you are looking for is Loctite 518. Red in color. Used for metal to metal sealing. Never gets hard or SETS up. Stays plyable. Use a paper thin film between the cap and block from the seal line outerward to the outer edge is all you need. Best of luck.

 

[fugitive]

i couldnt find any loctite 518 so i bought the permatex anaerobic gasket maker #51813.this should work right?just checkin because i have no experience with type of sealant.thanks nick

 

[rc1626]

I've done this job 3 times using both anaerobic, rtv sealant, and the rubber side seals. Each time shortly thereafter the leak still appeared. Will try again soon. Just don't look foward to getting the back of the oil pan past the flywheel with a new gasket on.....such a pain in the you know what.

Would it be possible to shoot rtv into the side channels a little at a time as to give it a better chance to dry. Put some in.....wait 24 hrs or so, put a little more in.....and so on? Or would it be better to shoot it all in at once? If I remember correctly, the one time I used the rtv in the side channels, I filled each one all at once. Upon disassembly 2 weeks later, (due to reoccuring leak) the rtv still was not fully cured.
Used either Permatex black or gold.

Any and all feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Rob

 

[Russ Merritt]

I have good luck with the "right stuff" on both cap surface and coating the side seals with it. No leaks.............