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just installed rear main seal,have a ????

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my leak was getting bad enough that i probably would get thrown off the track

poke the side channels with a wet peice of solid wire , it will cure then

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/rearmain.html

i didnt use the anerobic sealer . just a smear of rtv and did give plenty of time before firing up .went with the felpro rubber pan gasket with a smear of rtv at the rear cap and front cover joints , so far no sign of oil anywhere.
 
Originally posted by rc1626
Just don't look foward to getting the back of the oil pan past the flywheel with a new gasket on.....such a pain in the you know what.
The trick here is to tie the pan gasket to the pan with fine string, except for the back part, just tuck it down in side the pan. Once you get the pan past the flywheel, reach in and pull it out and line it up, put in a few bolts just far enough to hold the pan up, cut the strings off and install and tighten all remaining bolts.

Be sure everything is very clean of oil, including any drips coming from the crank shaft and rods, don't let any drips of oil get on the gasket mating surfaces or the gasket otherwise it will leak.

I spray the pan off with carb cleaner after rinsing it with gas, then wipe all surfaces with a cloth soaked in carb cleaner. Wipe all drips of oil off crank and robs with a paper towel just before installing the pan to prevent the drips as much as possible.
 
well i pulled the main cap back off today and rotated the seal and the rtv still wasnt dry and its been over a week with the oil pan off.this has got me a little worried with the grooves on the side of the main cap.should i use the rubber seals that came with the rear main seal?i filled the sides up full before with rtv but never poked a hole in it though so thats probably why.but what makes the rubber seals so bad?if you poke a hole in the rtv wont it still leak? thanks
 
those seals on the sides arent under pressure except maybe sloshing oil pressure and the baffle stops most of that .
poking with a wet wire introduces air and water which help speed the cure

the anaerobic sealer cures in the absence of air which is why its reccomended and can be put into service sooner

rtv needs air and to be at room temperature hence the name RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizining) it will cure but will take time
 
I had put a motor together and after 4000 miles I had a bearing problem so had to pull the pan to fix it. I used that grey RTV that's about $5 a tube. When I pulled down the rear cap, there was still some that hadn't cured in the side grooves but the seal didn't leak. You might have to wait till next year to put your motor back together if you're waiting for that stuff to cure. :D
 
thanks for the info fellow pasco county native,but i want to know what makes the side seals so bad?has anybody used them with any success?should i just put a little rtv at a time and let it dry and add more like what was mentioned above or just fill both sides,poke a hole and not worry about?i guess this stuff doesnt break down in the oil? thanks
 
I use the rubber seals with the kit, no problems. You need to pay attention to details when doing these seals IMHO.
 
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