KC valvebody mods.

[Steve V]

Those of you that have used one what if anything did you change beside normal mods? Tv valve is slightly smaller and spring slightly weaker. I am hoping for similar around town shifts with the 58-6k Wot. I have two Kc5 valvebodies.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Steve V]

Brf on top.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Steve V]

Here Kc line bias vs brf. Kc is larger. Next accumulator valves Kc is smaller with weak springs.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Steve V]

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[77 cruiser]

Let us known how this turns out. I know some guys have used the KC with good success. I did an OG & had mixed results, could never get the 2-3 to match the 1-2 shift points. Did get 6200 on the 1-2 & about 57-5800 2-3. Measured everything in both & couldn't find much difference between the 2.

 

[TexasT]

Let us known how this turns out. I know some guys have used the KC with good success. I did an OG & had mixed results, could never get the 2-3 to match the 1-2 shift points. Did get 6200 on the 1-2 & about 57-5800 2-3. Measured everything in both & couldn't find much difference between the 2.

What did you do to the 1-2 and 2-3 shift valves, if anything?

Steve I know you say bigger/smaller on those valves. Did you measure any? Caliper.

I found some springs local that I'm going to try with my aa vb and grind down a weight in the governor with one spring and see how that works.

Also put in the stiff 700r4 clutch return spring in the line bias and put the line bias spring into the accumulator.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[quickt]

Let us known how this turns out. I know some guys have used the KC with good success. I did an OG & had mixed results, could never get the 2-3 to match the 1-2 shift points. Did get 6200 on the 1-2 & about 57-5800 2-3. Measured everything in both & couldn't find much difference between the 2.

This is my favorite VB The OG has very predictable results. In that situation you should add weight to the large weight and take off the small.

 

[TexasT]

This is my favorite VB The OG has very predictable results. In that situation you should add weight to the large weight and take off the small.

Does the large weight affect the 1-2 and the small weight affect the 2-3?
Thanks

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[quickt]

Dont get hung up on the sizes of the valves. They don't matter as much as you think. The 7004R spring in the line bias disables the line bias same as blocking. The size no longer matters. Large with weak spring or small with strong. The end result is close to the same.

 

[quickt]

Does the large weight affect the 1-2 and the small weight affect the 2-3?
Thanks

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Mostly yes. The large weight also affects part throttle.

 

[TexasT]

Good info to know.
One more if I may? I have been working with my aa core and one of the shift improvement kit instructions adds a spring and removes the little spring on the inner tv valve. Another indicated adding a 3/16" spacer to the other tv spring. I sourced a spring that is a bit longer but close in stiffness, and a spring to try on the inner spool. Am I on the right track or should I be leaving it alone?
Thanks.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[BEATAV8]

Let us known how this turns out. I know some guys have used the KC with good success. I did an OG & had mixed results, could never get the 2-3 to match the 1-2 shift points. Did get 6200 on the 1-2 & about 57-5800 2-3. Measured everything in both & couldn't find much difference between the 2.

Similar results with my KC. 1-2 is several hundred RPM higher than the 2-3.
My line bias is blocked, accumulator is blocked too. Has the 3-2 control valve mod too.

 

[TexasT]

Similar results with my KC. 1-2 is several hundred RPM higher than the 2-3.
My line bias is blocked, accumulator is blocked too. Has the 3-2 control valve mod too.

If you decide on the gov mods Mr Diers reccomended could you weigh the before and after weights of the weights to give an idea if how much to add and how much it affects shift rpm.

With the accumulator and line bias blocked do you have harsh part throttle shifts it are you using a "loose" converter?

Sorry to get your thread off topic Steve.

Sent from my HTC PH39100 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app

 

[quickt]

Good info to know.
One more if I may? I have been working with my aa core and one of the shift improvement kit instructions adds a spring and removes the little spring on the inner tv valve. Another indicated adding a 3/16" spacer to the other tv spring. I sourced a spring that is a bit longer but close in stiffness, and a spring to try on the inner spool. Am I on the right track or should I be leaving it alone?
Thanks.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

I use a spring that is 2.00" free length. You can only add .050 of shim before it will fall out of the bushing. The 700R4 TV Helper to replace the stock helper spring. You can use anything to help keep the TV from sticking. But you must be careful that its not too stiff to lower TV pressure at light throttle.

 

[quickt]

The KC tends to shift around 6000 RPM depending on converter at 14.5G on the small weight. I do not recall the big weight other than stock BR. Unfortunately there is nothing written in stone. you can remove .5 gram on one VB and get 200 rpm and get 500 on another. The 200 Governor is more of a circuit leak and nothing like a 700R4 so changes should be made small.

 

[TexasT]

I use a spring that is 2.00" free length. You can only add .050 of shim before it will fall out of the bushing. The 700R4 TV Helper to replace the stock helper spring. You can use anything to help keep the TV from sticking. But you must be careful that its not too stiff to lower TV pressure at light throttle.

Thanks. I'll measure what I have. The low tension spring that is stock wasn't moving that spool back very good so I thought I should do something. I found a spring that fits over the spool like it shows in the transgo instructions. I thought the spool should move back to avoid harsh part throttle shifts.
I will see what I have on the gov and go from there.
Thank you very much.

Sent from my HTC PH39100 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app

 

[Steve V]

I am not planning on messing with my Gov, just gonna slap in a Stock BRF and let it rip. If I am not happy I will source another BRF to hack up

Lonnie how are the around town shifts VS the BRF?

 

[77 cruiser]

I made out s sheet with the valve sizes & spring length & wire dia. I'll go dig it out & scan it.
The OG with the GN gov wouldn't shift 1-2 WOT went to around 7500 before I lifted, so I never tried the 2-3.

 

[TexasT]

I made out s sheet with the valve sizes & spring length & wire dia. I'll go dig it out & scan it.
The OG with the GN gov wouldn't shift 1-2 WOT went to around 7500 before I lifted, so I never tried the 2-3.

That would be great.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[quickt]

Lonnie how are the around town shifts VS the BRF?

They are ok. It will be different than the BR. The part throttle shift RPM is a little low and will drop into OD at 35ish maybe 40. Shift quality is the same. The old BR 2-3-3-2-3 Shifty issue that can happen seems to never happen. They are more resistant to trash than the BR because spring pressures are a little higher. The KC positive is they are very predictable with the BRF governor at WOT. You do not need to play with them to get a Hi RPM shift point. The OG is a much better driver performs more like the BR when its modded and IMO its a little better. It will make all shifts without lifting on the throttle at less than WOT and I have never seen a BR that would. But as mentioned the shift points with the BR Gov is way up there. I would agree 7500 range give or take 200. So it takes more playing around to get the Higher shift points as they are very touchy with gov weight. If your looking for Higher RPM shift points the KC does a good job and is decent everywhere else.