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Kirban valve spring tool question

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Turbo6Tech84

Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
98
I attempted to change out my springs for the first time this weekend and ran into a few problems in the process. First thing was I didnt have a spare rocker shaft and had to make my own to get the tool mounted on there. Now with that obstacle out of the way I tried removing the first spring but the only thing I could get the tool to do was push the valve down. I know im doing something wrong here with the tool. Do I have to alter this in any way I was thinking of grinding out the middle of the rocker so I can compress the spring and be able to take out the keepers. Any ideas or suggestions is always appreciated. Thanks Jon
 
Give the retainers a tap with a rubber hammer. They are most likely just stuck to the locks. This has helped in the past.

I also recommend using a small magnet to help retreive the locks. Less likely to drop them, and lose one this way.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
Ive tried that already the problem is when I compress the valve goes down with the spring and theres now way to take out the keepers. How can I just compress the spring so the keepers and valve don't get compressed with the spring? Its hard to explain I guess but the valve tool just seems to open the valve instead of just compressing the spring.
 
Is the shaft you are using the same diameter as a stock shaft? EXACTLY? If it is smaller, then the rocker(tool) geometry will be off, and not push on the retainer in the correct angle. If the retainer and valve move at the same rate, i.e. the retainer doesn't create a gap betwen it and the keepers, then you need to take a ball peen hammer (don't be shy) and give the RETAINER a good firm tap. Do not hit the valve stem though. You can even tap a 9/16" deep socket over the reatiner to break it loose from the keepers/valve stem. Do you have the cylinder pressurized with 100+psi of compressed air? If not, then it is a GOOD thing that it didn't come loose. You MUST fill the cylinder with compressed air. There is an alternative way to keep the valve closed while you replace the valve springs if you do not have an air compressor. Turn the engine over to bottom dead center (on the cylinder you are working on) and take a 1/4" cotton (or similar) rope and feed about 4-6 feet into the spark plug hole, but be SURE to leave at least a foot or so hanging out the plug hole. (so you have something left to grab and remove the rope) Then turn the engine over and bring the piston up, which will compress the valve into the seat and keep it there. Do NOT remove the air pressure, or turn the engine over with the retainers off of a valve. If the valve drops into the cylinder, the ONLY fix is to remove the head.:eek: If you want to remove all the springs at once, you can by installing a clip over the valve stem in the keeper groove. Just be VERY careful not to let a valve drop.:eek:
 
Yeah it sounds like you don't have anything to hold the valves up when you're compressing the springs, whether it be air or a rope.

I've used the rope trick in the past on Chevys with great success.
 
Yes I am using the compressed air method at tdc and I did try the socket and hammer I could hear the keepers coming loose it sounded something like a snap or click. Now the custom made rocker shaft might be the issue here. Its not 100 percent identical to the stock rocker shaft. Any idea where I can get a spare one from? I would use the original one but theres these orange retainers that I wanted nothing to do with in taking out. Other than that I think that is my problem there. So to clarify this the kirban tool is suppose to seat on the retainer and angle it so I can get the keepers out? If thats the case I was definitely doing something wrong then cause it was seated on the valve itself and every time I pryed on it I could hear the compressed air seeping out and I knew that wasnt good. Well in that case anyone wanna sell me or let me borrow a spare rocker shaft? That would be appreciated thanks for the info Jon
 
When I did my, I grinded out the middle of the rocker so the rocker pushed down on the retainer instead of the valve. Tim
 
Yea thats what I was thinking of doing I'll try it that way then and hope for the best. Thanks for the info.
 
Be careful with the bar they give you. I had it snap before I finished. I cut my arm real nicely!
 
I bought that tool from Kirban back in '97. Worked fine but I did notice that the rocker, where you insert the handle, was stretched out to the point where I am not sure I would use it again. I can have a picture tomorrow if I don't stay here at the bar to long.....
 
I used the Kirban tool, it worked great. I sketched up the stock shaft and had a machinist at work drill the bolt down holes for me:biggrin:

Advice: make sure you have our spark plugs in the holes you are not working on! I dropped the keeper when trying to pull it off of the magnet, and it went right down the next cylinder spark plug hole! Luckliy, I was able to get it out with a long "antenna" magnet.:rolleyes:

100psi worked great keeping my valves up.
 
I bought that tool from Kirban back in '97. Worked fine but I did notice that the rocker, where you insert the handle, was stretched out to the point where I am not sure I would use it again. I can have a picture tomorrow if I don't stay here at the bar to long.....

Sure if you got time ill definitely check it out.
 
First: Not sure if someone already posted this but did you remove the spring guides, (the black metal things around the valve spring)? All you have to do is pry them out of the way with a large screwdriver. Watch out because they come out from under the spring in a hurry.

Second: Throw that Kirban tool in the trash and spend 30 bucks on a real spring compressor. I borrowed one from a friend but you can buy them at napa. It makes the job a lot easier.
 
Take a small heavy duty magnet put it into 11/16's deep socket. Then place it on the retainer and smack it with a hammer. Then the locks will pop out and then use your tool to reinstall the new springs. Be sure the piston is up or have at least 100psi in the cylinder.
 
The Kirban tool is a good tool, but if you are using Bee-hive springs, (roller cam) the tube that is welded to the modified rocker arm will probably break off. I had to weld a heavier walled tube on a friends spring compressor (Kirbans) so he could compress the Comp springs. The tube he uses is WAY too thin to work with heavy springs. His works real nice, now. I do like the design of the Kirban tool, but the materials used are not up to the task. (at least the one I had to fix.)
 
The Kirban tool is a good tool, but if you are using Bee-hive springs, (roller cam) the tube that is welded to the modified rocker arm will probably break off. I had to weld a heavier walled tube on a friends spring compressor (Kirbans) so he could compress the Comp springs. The tube he uses is WAY too thin to work with heavy springs. His works real nice, now. I do like the design of the Kirban tool, but the materials used are not up to the task. (at least the one I had to fix.)

I was replacing the factory installed springs when, by the time I was done, the little tube had had it.

I haven't had a chance to get a pic of mine but I will try tonight.
 
Here are the pics of mine after one set of springs. When I need it again, I'll just weld a thicker walled tube on it.
 

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