KR Sensor and Solid Roller Setup

TT/Ameasap

The White Blur
Joined
Jan 31, 2002
I have been on the fence about a solid roller setup, but I have heard from many people that it will set off the kr sensor. So, I did a little research and found that a lot of fast guys running solid setups without one.
I dont think I have ever had real kr in all the cars I have owned. It was always false kr from various things.
I know the kr sensor is good for newbies and people testing, but E85, alky, and a monster fp with supporting equipment should keep the kr at bay along with a good tune. Im talking about faster cars tho. Knowledgeable tb owners and a car that is dialed in. Why even have a kr sensor at that point?
 
Kip Fabre at Cammotion recently developed a line of LLSR (low-lash solid roller) cams for the LS series engine, don't see why this setup wouldn't work for GN engines as well. The cams actually make less noise than most aftermarket hydraulic lobe profiles...
 
I had a Crane solid roller(250801 grind) in my 3.4 V6 and the KS never picked up knock from the cam noise, I may have been lucky?

Not sure which ECM(U) combo you may have, but can it use newer wide band knock sensors?

At the very least you can build a knock det can and tune by ear.

Ideas....
 
You can make plenty of power with a hydraulic roller. If you go solid, or an aggressive lobe hydraulic roller, you will need a strong spring. I run an aggressive lobe hydraulic with a solid lifter tight lashed at .007". It is loud, but doesnt set off the knock sensor.
Don't you have the 214 hydraulic? That has an aggressive lobe, as aggressive as a solid lobe. You can run a solid on that. You need strong springs.
 
.......... but E85, alky, and a monster fp with supporting equipment should keep the kr at bay along with a good tune. Im talking about faster cars tho. Knowledgeable tb owners and a car that is dialed in. Why even have a kr sensor at that point?

Bo, if you are asking for confirmation in your statement, I agree 100%.

In the 15+ years in my alum build engine and many other personal engine builds using 116 octane and e-85 we were never concerned with KR. The tune is made for WOT at 7000 RPM and 650+ RWHP and all is fine UNLESS something else gives up, or allows it to over-rev hitting the limiter which can and will instantly take out a piston or something?

Another "rumor" about solid rollers is that you need very high valve spring pressures? The solid rollers I use are all lighter than the hydraulic I have seen?

In one solid roller engine the RPM limit is set at 8000, and will actually get there with 190#'s on the seat, normal shift is 7000 RPM or less.
 
Low lash equals very aggressive in most instances. You'd run more if you could but will be putting the lifting in a dangerous part of the lobe. The lobe design and rpm will dictate spring requirement. Some of the lazy ones need hardly any spring. Others need way more. Look 100lbs on the seat more than anyone ever mentions and a higher rate.


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I can see running a solid roller on a on center engine, cause it could rev higher.Can't go wrong with hydraulic roller using short travel lifter on a regular 109.off center.
 
I have been running a solid roller for years and have never had any issues with false knock.
 
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