LAKEWOOD DRAG SHOCKS

[J-B Racing]

Anybody on board running Lakewood's Drag Shocks and are they any good??

Thanks
Joe

 

[dank GN]

Anybody on board running Lakewood's Drag Shocks and are they any good??

Thanks
Joe

I have been running there front drag shocks for awhile . Any 90/10 drag shock will work well . Even the summit racing brand that’s adjustable will work great . Go 90/10 in the front and 50/50 in the rear that should be a good starting point

 

[forcefed3.8's]

If you are looking to launch off a transbrake with any kind of power, you need double adjustables. 90/10 goes full extension too quickly and unloads the rear tires. 90/10 and 50/50 with some ballast works on the street, but will not be the best at the track especially if you run a radial.

 

[J-B Racing]

I have to look at my old Koni's. They have been on the car for 25 years and I have never checked them to see if they are still alive.
I notice my rear end hopping. What do they mean by single and double adjustment?

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

90/10's up front and QA1 single adjustables out back.

 

[J-B Racing]

90/10's up front and QA1 single adjustables out back.

That is what's on the car now.
I will check their status before I buy anything.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

Double adjustable allows you to adjust rebound and compression independently. I have comp 3 ways on my car set to 60/40 and 70/30 in the read, and have the front end travel limited to 1.25". It works great off the foot brake on a radial, but would not use it off the trans brake.

 

[broke]

Double adjustable allows you to adjust rebound and compression independently. I have comp 3 ways on my car set to 60/40 and 70/30 in the read, and have the front end travel limited to 1.25". It works great off the foot brake on a radial, but would not use it off the trans brake.

If you don't mind sharing, how would you set up your car for a transbrake on a radial?

 

[J-B Racing]

Thanks for your info.

Joe

 

[ttypewhite]

If you got a high 9 sec car, 90/10 and 50/50's are the ticket. If your in the 8's you will be going backwards with those shocks. My advice is to stick with a proven strut that is double adjustable to fine tune it to your current setup. The more power you throw to the rear tires, the more attention to detail is needed. An off the shelf non adjustable shock just won't cut it.

 

[J-B Racing]

If you got a high 9 sec car, 90/10 and 50/50's are the ticket. If your in the 8's you will be going backwards with those shocks. My advice is to stick with a proven strut that is double adjustable to fine tune it to your current setup. The more power you throw to the rear tires, the more attention to detail is needed. An off the shelf non adjustable shock just won't cut it.

That's what's happening. I am spinning and hopping in the 60'
I have the single stage Koni's

 

[ttypewhite]

Exactly the issue I had with my Lakewoods after I have increased the power level in the car. At high 9's, the car could hook in the dirt with the Lakewoods. When I added more power they were junk. Too much energy was wasted in my 60 foot fighting the wheel from the car unloading the suspension from the front coming up too early and knocking out the back tire once it started bouncing. You are going to need a good electronic boost controller along with a good strut to get you lined out. big turbos don't like coming out soft, and too much is a waste. It has to be ramped in accordingly until you find that sweet spot with the strut and controller.

 

[J-B Racing]

Exactly the issue I had with my Lakewoods after I have increased the power level in the car. At high 9's, the car could hook in the dirt with the Lakewoods. When I added more power they were junk. Too much energy was wasted in my 60 foot fighting the wheel from the car unloading the suspension from the front coming up too early and knocking out the back tire once it started bouncing. You are going to need a good electronic boost controller along with a good strut to get you lined out. big turbos don't like coming out soft, and too much is a waste. It has to be ramped in accordingly until you find that sweet spot with the strut and controller.

Controller I have ( ams1000 ) shocks I will have to work with.
Thanks Mike

 

[murphster]

If you don't mind sharing, how would you set up your car for a transbrake on a radial?

Single adjustables up front and Double adjustables in rear. High quality single adjustables up front are usually good enough as they already have compression preset to stiff and then you just control the extension, tightening it up to control rise rate. Too loose extension it can rise too quick until you are out of travel and then unload the car. Too tight for the given power level and then there will be limited travel. Out back double adjustables so that you can control how hard to hit the tires by adjusting the extension and then hold the hit with a stiffer compression..... need more independent adjustability here depending on what the car is doing. Drag radials want to be dead hooked and keep the hook on the launch.

Like has been said... with lower power its not going to make the front end rise as quick so you can gravitate more towards 90/10 up front. With high power on drag radials you don't want any slop out back either to keep the radials dead hooked... so solid control arm bushings and a good sway bar or anti-roll bar that ties into the body is the way to go. Front end you just want free motion with no binding so the shocks can do their work. And finally, a good suspension geometry so you don't have excessive front end rise or rear squat....lowering the car and/or various relocation brackets usually help point in the right direction...

 

[broke]

Single adjustables up front and Double adjustables in rear. High quality single adjustables up front are usually good enough as they already have compression preset to stiff and then you just control the extension, tightening it up to control rise rate. Too loose extension it can rise too quick until you are out of travel and then unload the car. Too tight for the given power level and then there will be limited travel. Out back double adjustables so that you can control how hard to hit the tires by adjusting the extension and then hold the hit with a stiffer compression..... need more independent adjustability here depending on what the car is doing. Drag radials want to be dead hooked and keep the hook on the launch.

Like has been said... with lower power its not going to make the front end rise as quick so you can gravitate more towards 90/10 up front. With high power on drag radials you don't want any slop out back either to keep the radials dead hooked... so solid control arm bushings and a good sway bar or anti-roll bar that ties into the body is the way to go. Front end you just want free motion with no binding so the shocks can do their work. And finally, a good suspension geometry so you don't have excessive front end rise or rear squat....lowering the car and/or various relocation brackets usually help point in the right direction...

Thank you for spending your time give an explanation.

 

[gusszgs]

My heep runs mid 11's and I run Lakewoods 90/10's......pulled a 1.58 60' off footbrake on TT day. Crap track prep