Leaking Oil - Engine Girdle

[XxDarkSidexX]

only reason i bring it up.....I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM! Motor I bought had this problem when i got it. Its been sitting 2 years, and I'm in the process now of dealing with it.

you can take it off, and just have main caps and get an arp main stud bolt kit. But the gurdle is a thick strong peice id like to keep it, but it looks doughtfull.

have you made a decision on what to do with it?

 

[CHANCE]

keep filling it with oil till i build my next car

 

[grocerygetter]

LOL...what Chance said sounds true for you to bro (ARGN). Probably what I would do.

 

[XxDarkSidexX]

You can fix minor leaks with the girdle. First drain the oil out of the pan. Next clean with carb or brake cleaner. The carb cleaner will leave a little residue. Then clean the area with 409 or another water soluble cleaner. Blow off the area with air after both cleanings. Then apply “The right stuff” silicon sealer to the area. Let it dry thoroughly before you fill the crank with oil and this should solve most of the problems. The front 3 studs and the back two studs can be removed (because they do not have an inner nut that holds the girdle on only the pan nut) cleaned and silicon applied in these areas to seal them as well.

The guy with the girdle leaking at the rear should be an easy fix. Allot of times there is an oil leak the girdle is blamed. And most of the time it is either the front cover leaking or a valve cover.

Hope this helps, “the right stuff” is some killer silicon!

any other tips on sealing it?

 

[XxDarkSidexX]

i guess thats a no?

 

[Race Jace]

I can not fix it with words if you are not willing to do any work to seal it then the leak will not fix itself.

If you use the supplied sealing washers, a RJC or Duttweiler cork gasket, the right stuff and a crank scraper it will not leak.


I have done many many of them

 

[Razor]

I can not fix it with words if you are not willing to do any work to seal it then the leak will not fix itself.

If you use the supplied sealing washers, a RJC or Duttweiler cork gasket, the right stuff and a crank scraper it will not leak.


I have done many many of them

+1.. cannot be fixed with words.

You need to find the leak.. then find a way or curing the leak. Never ASSUMME you know where a leak is.. you need to clean surfaces and trace the oil.. if you are unwilling to do this.. you will guess and guess wrong 99% of the time.

I have installed timing covers on motors with girdles already installed and not leak a drop... many. its a non issue. Let alone the girdle is part of your bottom end, it needs to be "set" since it applies TQ to all your caps and such.

Brake/carb cleaner.. some rags.. some patience.. find the leak.

It wont fix itself.. never does :redface:

 

[Race Jace]

you can take it off, and just have main caps and get an arp main stud bolt kit. But the gurdle is a thick strong peice id like to keep it, but it looks doughtfull.

I would not recomend taking it off and just running it with stock cut down caps.

 

[Sam Colalillo]

You guys are not going to like my recommendation, but here it is.

Pull the engine. You’re going to spend many hours under the car trying to band-aid fix the leak. Get it on an engine stand. Turn it over disassemble the oil pan and girdle. Clean everything thoroughly, and then reinstall it all using cork gaskets and the right stuff sealant (or the sealant that pacemaker86 recommended). Install the timing cover first. Be very conscious when applying the sealant and setting the girdle onto the block. Also be aware of the fact that there are two little protrusions on each side of the stock oil pan that set very close to the countersunk holes of the girdle. Pay close attention when applying the sealant in these areas. (An RJC oil pan does not have these protrusions) Some additional advice is; if you do not have RJC pan get one. This oil pan eliminates another possible leak path for insufficiently installed oil pans. I know several people who do not have leaky girdles.

It all comes down to how much horsepower you are going to make. Big horsepower plus some main cap walk; equals broken crank and a whole in the block with a big oil leak. Main girdle holding the very wimpy 109 bottom end together sounds much better to me.

 

[Razor]

You guys are not going to like my recommendation, but here it is.

Pull the engine. You’re going to spend many hours under the car trying to band-aid fix the leak. Get it on an engine stand. Turn it over disassemble the oil pan and girdle. Clean everything thoroughly, and then reinstall it all using cork gaskets and the right stuff sealant (or the sealant that pacemaker86 recommended). Install the timing cover first. Be very conscious when applying the sealant and setting the girdle onto the block. Also be aware of the fact that there are two little protrusions on each side of the stock oil pan that set very close to the countersunk holes of the girdle. Pay close attention when applying the sealant in these areas. (An RJC oil pan does not have these protrusions) Some additional advice is; if you do not have RJC pan get one. This oil pan eliminates another possible leak path for insufficiently installed oil pans. I know several people who do not have leaky girdles.

It all comes down to how much horsepower you are going to make. Big horsepower plus some main cap walk; equals broken crank and a whole in the block with a big oil leak. Main girdle holding the very wimpy 109 bottom end together sounds much better to me.

IF the leak IS coming from the girdle.. yes.

What if its the front cover?

 

[XxDarkSidexX]

excellent replies thank you very much! Leaking or not, there is no dought that its a nice product, the thing is heavy and thick. Dont need to be a rockey sci to figure out it helps strengthin the block. hows that, Better?

Thanks again for replying upon request.