Let's talk torque strap's

[1LowLeSabre]

I know, probably a dumb question, but I'm still new here and trying to learn as much as possible. I did a search and mainly came up with for sale ads. Why do I need one, what do they consist of, and can I make one myself?

 

[jerrad]

It's a ratchet strap or turnbuckle that you hook on the driver side of the motor and then to the frame. You do this so that when the motor torques over you don't make you downpipe hit the frame, break motor mounts, etc.

 

[BEATAV8]

Go with an HR parts driver's side motor mount instead. Torque straps are old-school and not so good for the accessory bracket....

the general idea is to prevent the motor mount from being ripped apart from the engine torque load.

 

[1chance]

Got all my parts from Walmart! The little strap in the car section, and a large eye bolt from the hardware section. $20 at the most, it comes with two bolt's, keep it you may need a xtra, i broke one of mine. If you over tighten it you can feel the engine vibrate, just enough tension that your motor mount has help!

 

[notacarlo]

I gotta figure one out for my Champion AC delete bracket. Anyone?

 

[silentbutdeadly]

If you really like to stand on the gas pedal I would just do it right and get the hr motor mounts. Seen a couple cars where the eye on the alternator was oblong and one of them actually snapped off the alternator. Motor mounts are relatively easy to install also. JMO

 

[86 TR]

Get a drivers side poly mount at least. I used to run a torque strap. I broke the eye bolt 3 times and broke 2 sets of stock motor mounts.

I put a set of poly mounts on and haven't had a problem since.

 

[williamsGN]

Product Listing - Odds-N-Ends $35 for a strap or $225 for poly mounts.

 

[BlackBandit]

Go with the poly mounts. My engine doesn't move at all when I hit the gas....even on the t-brake. FWIW I had a torque strap once and it snapped my accessory bracket.

 

[WLDWST]

Go with the poly mounts. My engine doesn't move at all when I hit the gas....even on the t-brake. FWIW I had a torque strap once and it snapped my accessory bracket.

+1 for the poly mounts. They can screw up a perfectly good alternator and they look like ass.

 

[DailyDrifter]

x100 Polymounts.

 

[1LowLeSabre]

Man, I'm on a budget right. My cars not crazy fast. Just a couple of mods. Just a bit a insurance is all I'm looking for.

 

[BlackMetal]

If you're car only has a few mods then you don't need any insurance. Motor mount isn't gunna snap off next week.

 

[scot w.]

Man, I'm on a budget right. My cars not crazy fast. Just a couple of mods. Just a bit a insurance is all I'm looking for.

I have one with the complete "I" bolt for the alternator I can send you. Just cover the shipping!! PM me your info...


Scot W.

 

[turbo2nr]

Broke one alt. housing......also bent one eye-screw.

POS IMO.

 

[BlackBandit]

Man, I'm on a budget right. My cars not crazy fast. Just a couple of mods. Just a bit a insurance is all I'm looking for.

When my accessory bracket broke I had stock turbo/intercooler with bluetops combo. Back then my car ran 14.0x's because I was running 91 pump. I guess what I'm saying is that going slow isn't going to keep you from ruining $100 in parts using a torque strap. Of course you may get lucky and not have anything happen. I was fine for quite awhile and then one day it just broke.

 

[TurboDave]

Do it right the first time!! Get the HR Parts motor mounts.
If you're on a budget, and your car is lightly modded as you say, then leave it alone until you can save up for the mounts. You don't need a strap unless you know the mounts are totally shot.
The straps are more trouble than they're worth, especially if you snap a mounting point.

IMHO, only going with a driver's side poly mount isn't getting the job done. Sure you have the driver's side fastened well, but now when the torque is applied, the driver's side can't lift so that torque has to go somewhere. Guess where, the passenger side is then pushed down since the driver's side can't turque up. You're litterally forcing the downpipe down and banging around with that mushy stock mount on the passenger side.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Do it right the first time!! Get the HR Parts motor mounts.
If you're on a budget, and your car is lightly modded as you say, then leave it alone until you can save up for the mounts. You don't need a strap unless you know the mounts are totally shot.
The straps are more trouble than they're worth, especially if you snap a mounting point.

IMHO, only going with a driver's side poly mount isn't getting the job done. Sure you have the driver's side fastened well, but now when the torque is applied, the driver's side can't lift so that torque has to go somewhere. Guess where, the passenger side is then pushed down since the driver's side can't turque up. You're litterally forcing the downpipe down and banging around with that mushy stock mount on the passenger side.

Not to mention that the motor usually won't sit level with the two different types of mounts.

 

[SS_Sean]

Go with an HR parts driver's side motor mount instead. Torque straps are old-school and not so good for the accessory bracket....

the general idea is to prevent the motor mount from being ripped apart from the engine torque load.

+1

 

["Turbo-T"]

Interesting thread, as I was considering a strap but probably won't now. They were using similar devices in '72 on '66 Novas (anyone remember that recall?) But I've also been told when the dp hits it sets off the knock sensor.

Big ? I have is does the engine need to come out of the car to do a driver side mount swap? Or what's the minimum I can do to swap it? Hopefully this is something I can do in my garage with a jack and some wrenches.....????