Lifter Tick

[meaclez]

I recently just put my car all back together, and there was a very clear ticking sound..at first i figure exhaust leaks so i pulled them off checked for cracks and then had them checked to see if they were warped..after getting them fixed i put it back together and the tick was gone. ( i figured problem solved) not the case. once the car got to its normal temps about 150. the tick came back.

im guessing its a lifter based on this

it only does it when the car warms up, and it only does it cruising around. it seems to go away when i get into it, or go WOT. (the oil psi is 25 at operating temp and idle, and 50 at wot)

other then that i cant think of anything else.

its seen 2 oil changes already and doesnt have more then 300km since its been back out.

ive also localized the tick to the back 2 passenger side cylinders.

am i right..or is there something else i should be looking at?


oh ya..the heads are completely stock

 

[87action]

tick?

pull the plug wire off while it's running to see if tick goes away

 

[Jack Kotlarz]

Check the cross over exhaust connection on the passenger side. It might not be seated correctly.

 

[meaclez]

Check the cross over exhaust connection on the passenger side. It might not be seated correctly.

it only does it when the car warms up, and it only does it cruising around. it seems to go away when i get into it, or go WOT. (the oil psi is 25 at operating temp and idle, and 50 at wot)

once the car got to its normal temps about 150. the tick came back

no offence but did you even read my post?

 

[Jack Kotlarz]

No offence taken. You said there were no cracks or warps, however, I have seen two cars this year that the cross over pipe on the drivers side was not seated perfectly and had a small leak. It was not tightened up evenly.. It made a sound that changed as the metal expanded. The tick came from the area you mentioned and the exhaust header systems had just recently been reinstalled. Good luck.

 

[m233roller]

Who's lifters are you running? Go to Napa and get yourself a can of Sea Foam. It's in a white can, pour half of can in the motor. I personally don't believe in snake oils but this stuff works and has been around ALONG time. Iv'e used it for clicky, clacky lifters quite afew times and has worked every time. Of coarse if it's something mechanical wrong youv'e got another problem and will have to address it.

 

[esm]

wow

i have the same noise at the same location === i checked my manifolds for cracks and warpage - none - i replaced my lifters and noise did go away (i used GM lifters) noise was still there - i pull the pan and found worn rod bearings and replaced them and noise cam back --- my engine only has 1k on it ---i checked the flywheel for cracks none -- i made sure the torque converter
wasnt loose and it wasnt --- now from what ive been told and from what DLS
told me everyone is saying its a wrist pin --- so now im pull the engine and
have to back thru the short block and hopefully find the problem there --- i wish you luck and hope you find the noise without pulling the engine ---

 

[meaclez]

Who's lifters are you running? Go to Napa and get yourself a can of Sea Foam. It's in a white can, pour half of can in the motor. I personally don't believe in snake oils but this stuff works and has been around ALONG time. Iv'e used it for clicky, clacky lifters quite afew times and has worked every time. Of coarse if it's something mechanical wrong youv'e got another problem and will have to address it.

Im running stock lifters and the stock flattap cam


Ill give that a shot before i start ripping into the motors seriously

i have the same noise at the same location === i checked my manifolds for cracks and warpage - none - i replaced my lifters and noise did go away (i used GM lifters) noise was still there - i pull the pan and found worn rod bearings and replaced them and noise cam back --- my engine only has 1k on it ---i checked the flywheel for cracks none -- i made sure the torque converter
wasnt loose and it wasnt --- now from what ive been told and from what DLS
told me everyone is saying its a wrist pin --- so now im pull the engine and
have to back thru the short block and hopefully find the problem there --- i wish you luck and hope you find the noise without pulling the engine ---

you said you replaced your lifters and the noise went away? and then came back???

ive checked the convertor aswell as the flywhell and they both seem good. ill will double check them closer this time

but if it was a wrist pin wouldnt the sound be there all the time???

 

[esm]

info

when i replaced the lifters the noise was still there --- my noise is there at idle and gets worse at 2k rpms

 

[87action]

ticking

With the engine running at temp start pulling spark plug wires off one at a time to see if ticking goes away, this will isolate a probable cylinder, then go from there. When you rev the engine the noise goes away, but when it's idling it is not really under a load so you may have more clearance in your rod bearings. Cut open your oil filter and check for fine copper metallic material. Hope this helps some.

 

[meaclez]

With the engine running at temp start pulling spark plug wires off one at a time to see if ticking goes away, this will isolate a probable cylinder, then go from there. When you rev the engine the noise goes away, but when it's idling it is not really under a load so you may have more clearance in your rod bearings. Cut open your oil filter and check for fine copper metallic material. Hope this helps some.

No.the noise only shows up when the car is warm...cold starts its not there..it also goes away when the oil pressure rises example getting into boost.

i aslo pulled the plug wires off and they sound didnt go away. so im sure its not a spun bearing like a few other ppl stated it is.

 

[getchasum]

The more you describe it, the more it sounds like you still have an exhaust leak.

 

[yullose]

Look real close at the flexplate... I've had some real elusive "ticking" sounds in the past that turned out to be hairline cracks in the flexplate... usually very close to the crank hub.

I highly doubt that converter could be giving you any trouble... that was a $1200 unit when I bought it and was built for 1000+HP.

You say the noise depends on engine temp and goes away with RPM and oil pressure. It sounds like a possible low oil pressure @ idle issue. Don't always trust a single gauge. Maybe try another gauge to compare.

Have you pulled the pump cover and inspected it yet ?

What motor oil are you using ? I always ran Castrol 20w-50 in that car.

Something you might also consider... (and this worked for me many years ago on a customers car with a noisey lifter.)
Dump a can of Marvel Mystery oil in the motor while it's running and making noise. If it's just a gummed-up sticky lifter, that should fix it within a minute or two of dumping the can in. Just don't drive the car with that sh!t in the crankcase. Dump it immediately and replace the oil & filter.

 

[meaclez]

Look real close at the flexplate... I've had some real elusive "ticking" sounds in the past that turned out to be hairline cracks in the flexplate... usually very close to the crank hub.

I highly doubt that converter could be giving you any trouble... that was a $1200 unit when I bought it and was built for 1000+HP.

You say the noise depends on engine temp and goes away with RPM and oil pressure. It sounds like a possible low oil pressure @ idle issue. Don't always trust a single gauge. Maybe try another gauge to compare.

Have you pulled the pump cover and inspected it yet ?

What motor oil are you using ? I always ran Castrol 20w-50 in that car.

Something you might also consider... (and this worked for me many years ago on a customers car with a noisey lifter.)
Dump a can of Marvel Mystery oil in the motor while it's running and making noise. If it's just a gummed-up sticky lifter, that should fix it within a minute or two of dumping the can in. Just don't drive the car with that sh!t in the crankcase. Dump it immediately and replace the oil & filter.

i also highly doubt its the converter, im going to look at the flexplate really close tonight aswell as pump cover is there anythig specific to look for?


i

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

With the engine running at temp start pulling spark plug wires off one at a time to see if ticking goes away, this will isolate a probable cylinder, then go from there. When you rev the engine the noise goes away, but when it's idling it is not really under a load so you may have more clearance in your rod bearings. Cut open your oil filter and check for fine copper metallic material. Hope this helps some.

If it's a bearing or wrist pin, and you pull a plug, that doesn't stop that piston from still going up and down. I don't get it. How does that work.

 

[87action]

Long story short, I had a problem with a supposedly good motor I bought for the gn years ago. Sounded like a lifter ticking or would not pump up. I had decent oil pressure (12-15 hot) at idle. Thought maybe a bad cam lobe. Measured rocker travel, even with the rest. Finally stethoscoped engine and found #2 cylinder was slightly rapping noise. After trying to diagnose engine for a couple of days decided to pull it and dissasemble for freshing. While engine was running I pulled off spark plug leads one at a time which led me to the bad cylinder. The noise would go away when the cylinder was NOT firing. Under load with combustion was just enough to make the noise re-appear, thus finding worn wrist pin and a bad rod bearing! End of story.