Line loc install...

[coach]

Hey Guys,
I just put a line loc on my car, and its not working. I installed it right by the powermaster and used the smaller diameter line ( Front brakes). I wired it up and hit the switch and I hear the solenoid clicking and the light comes on. Problem is, I hit the brake...put the car in gear...push the line loc button...release the brake...and the damn car still rolls..
What did I do wrong???
Im trying to get it ready to run at Norwalk next weekend.

Thanks
Coach

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Did you pump the brakes??

 

[coach]

Yep. Tried everything.

 

[salvageV6]

I believe some have a directional arrow on them so check that.

Make sure they were bled well enough too.

 

[coach]

I believe some have a directional arrow on them so check that.

Make sure they were bled well enough too.

Im going thru the entire system tomorrow. Bleeding, new braided stainless lines to replace the 25 year old rubber lines to the calipers and over the rear housing. This is a Hurst roll control, no arrow.
I came out of PM, into the solenoid, and then from the top of the solenoid back into the factory brake line.
I grounded the solenoid to the fender of the car using one of the relay bracket screws.
I fished the red wire into the car and added the fusible link to it.
I then hooked up a light and drilled it into my shifter plate. I grounded the light wire to my shifter, and run the other wire inside the console and pigtailed it with the switch wire. Then the 2nd wire from the switch is to power. Add the third wire from the fusible link to the pigtailed switch and light and your done...correct??? I hit the switch and the solenoid clicks and the light comes on. Its got to be something stupid.

 

[charlief1]

It should be after the prop valve, not the master Donnie. That may be causing the issue.

 

["Turbo-T"]

I had my line lock mounted between the master cylinder and the proportioning valve so I doubt that's the issue, though I do agree after the proportioning valve is better.

Coach, instead of pushing the brake and setting the line lock, try this......set the line lock first....now step on the brake pedal. Does the pedal get really hard? Ok. Now without letting off the brake pedal, while keeping pressure applied, now disengage the line lock. Does the pedal now go to it's normal position? If so it's likely you installed the line lock backwards.

As posted, some, if not all line locks, have a built in check valve to allow you to pump as much fluid to the front brakes as you wish, but the fluid doesn't come back until the solenoid is de energized. I had the same issues you had once. A switch around of the brake lines fixed that.

 

[coach]

I had my line lock mounted between the master cylinder and the proportioning valve so I doubt that's the issue, though I do agree after the proportioning valve is better.

Coach, instead of pushing the brake and setting the line lock, try this......set the line lock first....now step on the brake pedal. Does the pedal get really hard? Ok. Now without letting off the brake pedal, while keeping pressure applied, now disengage the line lock. Does the pedal now go to it's normal position? If so it's likely you installed the line lock backwards.

As posted, some, if not all line locks, have a built in check valve to allow you to pump as much fluid to the front brakes as you wish, but the fluid doesn't come back until the solenoid is de energized. I had the same issues you had once. A switch around of the brake lines fixed that.

I will do that. Thats a good way to check it. Never thought of that.
Thanks

 

[aminga]

If it's before the Prop valve then the brake light should come on when you set the lock and let off the brake.

 

[coach]

If it's before the Prop valve then the brake light should come on when you set the lock and let off the brake.

Ok, thats good to know. I'll check that too.

 

[scot w.]

Coach,

Try to swap your lines around first, sounds like everything else is working... On the Hurst solenoid the line you took OFF the M/S needs to go to the "IN" hole closest towards the large base or mounting body of the solenoid then you have the 3 "OUT" holes towards the front or "end" of the solenoid that need to go where the other line came out of the master cylinder "To Brakes" ...

Post a picture of how you got it hooked up, that will help me see whats going on...

If not, then this might help -> http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/brakes/linelock.html (Use diagram #2)

Here is the Hurst LL instructions too -> http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/huu-1745000(2)1.pdf

If this don't help then I can always send you our instructions from our line-loc kits...


.

 

[coach]

Thats the bitch of it all Scot...this is the 3rd car I have this on. What is wrong here? I know its a stupid amount of adapters, but GM used that ridiculous size thread on that tiny ass line, so to avoid cutting my original line, I adapted to it.
Take a look...

 

[GNRick]

I think mine looks like yours, Coach. I removed my power master that died on me last week. Waiting for the big brown truck to deliver my hydroboost unit. [/ATTACH]

 

[salvageV6]

Mines the same as the pics. posted too.

It's gotta be in the bleeding......

It's a lot easier to cut the end off the factory line take the Metric nut and use it back into the master cylinder on a new shorter 3/16" line you cut the end off of and reflare, then use the 3/16" nut on the factory line reflared back into the Hurst Roll output feed with their adapter 3/16" to NPT.