trading t/a
I'm Angry!!!!!
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- 1,120
I believe Razor meant the wires to jump out the vats are in the kick panel and yes it's a p.i.t.a.
List of parts that can KISS MY A**
- Thread starter chicagoTTA
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How bout taking off the motor mount bolts by yourself... 
Especially that passenger side one.
Plugs are easy.. all you need is a ratchet with a swivel head and a short extension.. the drivers side comes out.
On the passenger side, I use a one inch extension attached to the 5/8 socket.. then use a 7/8 wrench.. piece of cake. Gotta admit tho.. I hate cyl 5 the most.
OK.. here's the mother of all mothers..
The drivers side valve cover.. removing and reinstalling without scratching it up.
And how bout them valve cover gaskets that pop out
src76ta.. no issues like that.. a good chip and a tune up.. purrrs like a kitten.
Especially that passenger side one.Plugs are easy.. all you need is a ratchet with a swivel head and a short extension.. the drivers side comes out.
On the passenger side, I use a one inch extension attached to the 5/8 socket.. then use a 7/8 wrench.. piece of cake. Gotta admit tho.. I hate cyl 5 the most.
OK.. here's the mother of all mothers..
The drivers side valve cover.. removing and reinstalling without scratching it up.
And how bout them valve cover gaskets that pop out
src76ta.. no issues like that.. a good chip and a tune up.. purrrs like a kitten.
chicagoTTA
Crack Baby
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2003
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- 331
Razor's right on tho. A knuckle and short extension make it possible. But still enough of a PITA to warrant opening an entire can on the engineer.
Although he did find a way to finally cram a sweet engine in a third gen.
Still, kick him in the stones on GP.
I won't charge you, and here's 1.75 points for adding. Thanks for supporting this thread/therapy session.
Although he did find a way to finally cram a sweet engine in a third gen.
Still, kick him in the stones on GP.
I won't charge you, and here's 1.75 points for adding. Thanks for supporting this thread/therapy session.
how bout the center console spreading apart..thats awfully anoying..would have thought they could have done better there considering they used in them f-cars for 7 years...
hey chicago im workin in your neck of the woods tomarrow i expect to see you tearin that car a new one while im out there or at least hear you
hey chicago im workin in your neck of the woods tomarrow i expect to see you tearin that car a new one while im out there
or at least hear youchicagoTTA
Crack Baby
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2003
- Messages
- 331
I'd LOVE to kick it's a$$ today. But it's raining. So the car is STILL laughing at me and makin a bit*h outta me. I can hear her in the garage now talkin smack.
Keep laughin, it'll stop raining sometime. Then it's just you and me... (insert maniacal laugh here)
More good news, I FINALLY got new tires comin. Was still runnin on the orig VR50's. That's Thursday. So by Friday afternoon, she'll be cryin and whimpering. Oh yea.
Keep laughin, it'll stop raining sometime. Then it's just you and me... (insert maniacal laugh here)
More good news, I FINALLY got new tires comin. Was still runnin on the orig VR50's. That's Thursday. So by Friday afternoon, she'll be cryin and whimpering. Oh yea.
chicagoTTA
Crack Baby
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- Aug 12, 2003
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Oh yea. And the console bites the big one. It must have been the same engineer as the rear spoiler.
He designed both while piss drunk and free-basing brake fluid.
He designed both while piss drunk and free-basing brake fluid.
Yeah, they must have fired the guy that chose the poor quality leather....my wife's 95 TA with white leather has 75k miles on it, and looks great....then they must have hired the jerk back...cause my 99 has only 19k miles with white leather looks like crap.
trading t/a
I'm Angry!!!!!
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2001
- Messages
- 1,120
trading t/a
I'm Angry!!!!!
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2001
- Messages
- 1,120
pvt num 11
Finally driving it
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2005
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- 295
I'm sure a lot of the items on my GTA apply here, as the TTA is a GTA with a better drivetrain and much better badges. (hence why my nose badge is missing, someone stole it.)
Brake calipers - suck. Of course, I learned this while changing the rear pads and calipers out on the GTA, so I guess it doesn't really count, as the TTA has the 'better' design, so it's said. However, I'll be wary and approach that job only after a good night's sleep and a comfy mat to sit on while i work.
Ditto on the parking brake lever spring crap. If you haven't tried yoga yet, you sure will when you replace a caliper.
Ditto on hatch struts, but having a buddy to help (thank you, my lovely wife) actually makes that go by relatively painless. I can't imagine trying to do that one alone. How much does a hatch weigh again? Half a ton? I've yet to change hood struts yet, but a suficiently long broomstick seems to work just as well, and should be standard equipment with these cars. Throw in two, becasue you might have to have both the hood and the hatch open at the same time.
Ditto on aero fin. Both my cars have cracks on theirs and the mounting points up the hatch are totally trashed.
Power antenna? I've got two I need to replace. One just quit running, but the TTA's is running all the time so the fuse is yanked out. Which leads me to...
Multiple items running off of one fuse. HUH? Becasue i have no fuse for my antenna motor, I also have no interior lights, and the added turbo timer is ka-put as well. Previous owners should have ran juice form another fuse.
FOG LIGHTS. They look great when they work, but just try changing the idiotic H3 bulb out, AND get the lens back on intact. I've cracked one lens because the stupid moron-inspired plastic clips weren't on JUST SO, and the TTA's driver's light is just plain missing both clips. There is zero room in there to work with,unless I felt like removing the entire front fascia. I'm ready to go aftermarket on the GTA just to see what sort of set-up would approximate stock as far as looks but be so much more pleasant when it came to change a bulb.
Dash work - why, oh why is it so freaking difficult to remove the dash? You had better save every single last nut bolt and screw, too. I've only done this on other third-gens, but the TTA looks exactly the same. I'm also not looking forward to finding the burnt-out bulb on my GTA's Driver Information Cluster. Don't you love digital? Hopefully, the TTA's dash cluster comes out pretty easy, once I remove only half a million screws, to trouble shoot my boost gauge.
Boost gauge - Mine doesn't work. Waiting for a DMM so I can find out if the MAP works or not.
Little rubber vacuum/boost lines - why? These cars get really hot under the hood...
Ditto on fuel pump - see thirdgen.org on some people's hack solutions to that one. Cutting an access hole in the rear hatch area so they can go in from the top and replace it without dropping the tank. I wouldn't do that, though, it's hackwork. I'd probably pay someone to do it, though, rahter then drop the tank on my arm and try to deal with those stupid straps that hold it up and whatnot.
Idle - Not sure if this is an out-of-tune issue or what. At least it drives decently, and I can actually get on the gas now without it doing this curious backfiring-type-of thing. Boost rocks.
Gee, that's all I can think of at the moment... I guess this is the price you pay for owning a high-performance car. If you're not willing to scream and shout adn scrape your knuckles raw on some stupid part, then a high-performance car is not for you. Especially an American one.
Brake calipers - suck. Of course, I learned this while changing the rear pads and calipers out on the GTA, so I guess it doesn't really count, as the TTA has the 'better' design, so it's said. However, I'll be wary and approach that job only after a good night's sleep and a comfy mat to sit on while i work.
Ditto on the parking brake lever spring crap. If you haven't tried yoga yet, you sure will when you replace a caliper.
Ditto on hatch struts, but having a buddy to help (thank you, my lovely wife) actually makes that go by relatively painless. I can't imagine trying to do that one alone. How much does a hatch weigh again? Half a ton? I've yet to change hood struts yet, but a suficiently long broomstick seems to work just as well, and should be standard equipment with these cars. Throw in two, becasue you might have to have both the hood and the hatch open at the same time.
Ditto on aero fin. Both my cars have cracks on theirs and the mounting points up the hatch are totally trashed.
Power antenna? I've got two I need to replace. One just quit running, but the TTA's is running all the time so the fuse is yanked out. Which leads me to...
Multiple items running off of one fuse. HUH? Becasue i have no fuse for my antenna motor, I also have no interior lights, and the added turbo timer is ka-put as well. Previous owners should have ran juice form another fuse.
FOG LIGHTS. They look great when they work, but just try changing the idiotic H3 bulb out, AND get the lens back on intact. I've cracked one lens because the stupid moron-inspired plastic clips weren't on JUST SO, and the TTA's driver's light is just plain missing both clips. There is zero room in there to work with,unless I felt like removing the entire front fascia. I'm ready to go aftermarket on the GTA just to see what sort of set-up would approximate stock as far as looks but be so much more pleasant when it came to change a bulb.
Dash work - why, oh why is it so freaking difficult to remove the dash? You had better save every single last nut bolt and screw, too. I've only done this on other third-gens, but the TTA looks exactly the same. I'm also not looking forward to finding the burnt-out bulb on my GTA's Driver Information Cluster. Don't you love digital? Hopefully, the TTA's dash cluster comes out pretty easy, once I remove only half a million screws, to trouble shoot my boost gauge.
Boost gauge - Mine doesn't work. Waiting for a DMM so I can find out if the MAP works or not.
Little rubber vacuum/boost lines - why? These cars get really hot under the hood...
Ditto on fuel pump - see thirdgen.org on some people's hack solutions to that one. Cutting an access hole in the rear hatch area so they can go in from the top and replace it without dropping the tank. I wouldn't do that, though, it's hackwork. I'd probably pay someone to do it, though, rahter then drop the tank on my arm and try to deal with those stupid straps that hold it up and whatnot.
Idle - Not sure if this is an out-of-tune issue or what. At least it drives decently, and I can actually get on the gas now without it doing this curious backfiring-type-of thing. Boost rocks.
Gee, that's all I can think of at the moment... I guess this is the price you pay for owning a high-performance car. If you're not willing to scream and shout adn scrape your knuckles raw on some stupid part, then a high-performance car is not for you. Especially an American one.
Originally posted by pvt num 11
Idle - Not sure if this is an out-of-tune issue or what. At least it drives decently, and I can actually get on the gas now without it doing this curious backfiring-type-of thing. Boost rocks.
OK, I've seen this issue come up several times. I apologize to Chicago TTA for breaking his thread here but it seemed like a good point to add this in. I know a lot of you know about this and I'm kinda suprised I haven't seen Razor mention it. Along with the usual tune up, cleaning the throtle body, setting the IAC, idle speed and TPS voltage there is 1 other thing that's not talked about much and that's the cam timing. I'm not saying that all the rough idle issues are related to this but it is a possibility and an easy check. Caspers sells a cam tool for $30.0 that is a necessity for your tool box. Just put the motor at top dead center #1 cylinder compression stroke, hook this baby up and just follow directions.
Hey! Chicago TTA! Great thread! You remind me of my old buddy from the the original TTA mail list, JonB, he's in Chicago too.
Idle - Not sure if this is an out-of-tune issue or what. At least it drives decently, and I can actually get on the gas now without it doing this curious backfiring-type-of thing. Boost rocks.
OK, I've seen this issue come up several times. I apologize to Chicago TTA for breaking his thread here but it seemed like a good point to add this in. I know a lot of you know about this and I'm kinda suprised I haven't seen Razor mention it. Along with the usual tune up, cleaning the throtle body, setting the IAC, idle speed and TPS voltage there is 1 other thing that's not talked about much and that's the cam timing. I'm not saying that all the rough idle issues are related to this but it is a possibility and an easy check. Caspers sells a cam tool for $30.0 that is a necessity for your tool box. Just put the motor at top dead center #1 cylinder compression stroke, hook this baby up and just follow directions.
Hey! Chicago TTA! Great thread! You remind me of my old buddy from the the original TTA mail list, JonB, he's in Chicago too.
Forgot the Heater Core replacement---have to remove the entire dash pad!
Idle- its known that TTAs idle rougher, compared to a GN, just have to live with that one.
As far as these brake pad replacements, I've never had to change mine but I thought that was the rave because they were "Indy style calipers" and the pads could be changed in minutes???
That's what I've read anyway in a magazine article, and the sales brochure I thought.
Idle- its known that TTAs idle rougher, compared to a GN, just have to live with that one.
As far as these brake pad replacements, I've never had to change mine but I thought that was the rave because they were "Indy style calipers" and the pads could be changed in minutes???
That's what I've read anyway in a magazine article, and the sales brochure I thought.Originally posted by 2QUIK6
As far as these brake pad replacements, I've never had to change mine but I thought that was the rave because they were "Indy style calipers" and the pads could be changed in minutes??? That's what I've read anyway in a magazine article, and the sales brochure I thought.
HA! The brochure said it has 4 bolt main bearing too.
As far as these brake pad replacements, I've never had to change mine but I thought that was the rave because they were "Indy style calipers" and the pads could be changed in minutes???
That's what I've read anyway in a magazine article, and the sales brochure I thought.HA! The brochure said it has 4 bolt main bearing too.
You can say that again, I had to change out the v/c gasket on the drivers side last night because it was leaking out the back what a PITAOriginally posted by Razor
OK.. here's the mother of all mothers..
The drivers side valve cover.. removing and reinstalling without scratching it up.
And how bout them valve cover gaskets that pop out
Jason3.8TransAM
Member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2004
- Messages
- 325
Brake pad changes could be done in minutes
Just when they were new and shiny and not at 103k and everythign is siezed(did i mention on maiden voyage of new enigne last yr the drvr side caliper locked up and I put it out with an extinquisher in front of a cemetery? lol its true)
Warning::::: Heater cores do not need the dash pulled to remove and install them. U can reach all the bolts from underneath once u get the underdash panels out of your way(its still a pia but take 1-2 this way)
I hate tranny cooler lines
Damn radio unlock crap with the equally crappy unlock feature activated thru the more crappy steering wheel controls
Poly mounts got the THDP to clear and thing feels like a mach truck (installed them to spec)(new drvr side mount and leave poly pass side is current line of thinking)
Wonderful newspaper dipped in cow fat seat leather lol
Who was smoking and didnt pass when they designed the t-top seals?
I'm sure there are others, u guys seems to have mentioned most of them before I found this thread.......
enough for now
later
Jeremy
Just when they were new and shiny and not at 103k and everythign is siezed(did i mention on maiden voyage of new enigne last yr the drvr side caliper locked up and I put it out with an extinquisher in front of a cemetery? lol its true)
Warning::::: Heater cores do not need the dash pulled to remove and install them. U can reach all the bolts from underneath once u get the underdash panels out of your way(its still a pia but take 1-2 this way)
I hate tranny cooler lines
Damn radio unlock crap with the equally crappy unlock feature activated thru the more crappy steering wheel controls
Poly mounts got the THDP to clear and thing feels like a mach truck (installed them to spec)(new drvr side mount and leave poly pass side is current line of thinking)
Wonderful newspaper dipped in cow fat seat leather lol
Who was smoking and didnt pass when they designed the t-top seals?
I'm sure there are others, u guys seems to have mentioned most of them before I found this thread.......
enough for now
later
Jeremy
chicagoTTA
Crack Baby
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2003
- Messages
- 331
Just thought I'd RE-ADD this one. The hatch struts can (again) KISS MY A$$. I am having a hell of a time finding the part # to the ones that will actaully LIFT the rear hatch without my hands. Remember those days? You press the button, hatch opens without you??
Yea, those were the days...
*cue bonfire, us all roasting S'Mores *
Yea, those were the days...
*cue bonfire, us all roasting S'Mores *
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