Lockup/Stall Question

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bishir

Serenity Now
Joined
Aug 11, 2002
Messages
4,967
With this CK tranny just installed it is the first time I've driven a GN with a stall. (3200)
I know about pushing the brake and the RPMs rising but is this the same even if you're under stall rpm? I'm having a hard time noticing a lockup. RPMs aren't rising and I've made sure my switch is adjusted, but I haven't tried it at a higher RPM. Everytime I've done it has been around 60mph and 2200-2400rpm. I can't say enough good things yet about how the transmission performs though, nice quick/firm shifts. :cool: I've yet to run full boost though.
 
at lockup at cruise the engine rpms should drop approximately 200 rpms.tapping the brake while maintaing steady throttle will verify apply.
 
Thanks for the fast reply Chris. I just put the tranny and converter in so I'll try again, but RPM wasn't increasing when I tried tapping the brake switch. I'll make sure my switch is adjusted properly again. Holding the throttle steady was tricky for me. Could I just pull the plug on the transmission and check RPM at cruise then put the plug back in and check at the same MPH? Plus, if the converter isn't locking is it hurting anything? I really don't want to pull it back out.
 
Once again if it's not locking can it do damage? I've heard people do modifications to the front pump for a non-lockup. What about a lock-up not locking? I'm still not getting an RPM increase when I tap the brake. CK tranny and converter....
 
The easiest way to check the lockup is by installing the manual lockup switch from gnttype.org diagrams or use the paper clip method.

You don't need to permanently install the switch if you don't want too, you can make it plug and play via the ALDL wiring port.

Lock it up manually at about 20 mph in second gear on a slow cruise and the car should lug right down and bog.

Or you can check the archives for several threads with the electrical tests needed to trouble shoot the stock lockup electronics outside the tranny.
 
Chris, I can check. Do I check with the key on and car running in gear, or not? I do know how to manually lock the convertor I even have a switch wired for that.
 
Chris, I can check. Do I check with the key on and car running in gear, or not? I do know how to manually lock the convertor I even have a switch wired for that.

Key on, car doesn't have to be running or in gear. Check to make sure the switch at the brake pedal is adjusted properly (switch plunger is depressed with foot off the brake). If that's not working you won't get 12V at terminal A at the trans. The easiest thing to do is to try to lock it up in 2nd gear and see if it bogs.

Jim
 
I was alway under the impression that a lock up on convertor that don't lock up can generate to much heat. The convertor is not designed to stay not locked up, specialy with an overdrive with something like 2.73-2.56 gears like the stock one used in must Delta 88 and cutlasses.
 
The convertor not locking will not hurt anything but gas milage.


this is wrong from my understanding. Fluid is sent to the cooler at a much greater volume when locked up. So if you are cruising and not locked up the tranny will be running at a much higher temp both due to overall inefficiency and less fluid being sent to the cooler. I would not drive around for more than a quick trip on the highway.
 
From my own experience, if there is any additional heat generated form leaving the clutches unlocked, it was not noticable. I've run a Vigilante 5 disc for a while, and never locked it on the street except to break in the clutches. Never lock my old one at the track either while turning several mid 10's @ over 130mph--( car didn't respond well to RPM drop off ). I've monitored the trans. temps, and also sent my convertor back to have it inspected. There were no ill effects from not locking. Can't say what others have experienced. Brian
 
Any more word on if it will hurt anything? I haven't touched the car lately as the garage is surrounded by plants I had to bring in to keep from freezing outside. I may make a trip this weekend and check it all out.

Thanks,
James
 
Car has been sitting and I've been working on other things, but I just got around to checking this again and the voltage is 19.5 volts. I had to double check that as it seemed wrong, but that's what it is. Any ideas why the voltage is so high?

This is key on/engine off. Thanks,
JB
 
JB,
Have you resolved this problem yet? My Vigilante is not locking up either. On the same note, how can you possibly get 19.5 volts out a 12 volt system? I know that it can range from a max of 14v down to whatever, but 19.5?! Do you have a volt-booster or something?
Keith
 
I still have the problem so the car has been sitting. The battery was low in my mulimeter, so I guess thats the weird voltage answer. I need to give Chris a call and see what he suggests next. TCC selenoid perhaps?
 
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