Lockup to non-lockup mods

[MSDGN]

I saw the writeup on GNTTYPE about this but it's a little old...I don't think you need to do any tapping or drilling...I'm going to a NL converter and here's what I'm going to do:

1) Replace lockup valve with Art Carr non-lockup valve...no mods needed
other than replacing the valve..
2) Remove O-ring from TCC solenoid switch...so I can put the switch back.
3) Remove check ball from input shaft

...on top of that do I also need to remove the O-ring from the end of the input shaft?...does this sound like I have everything covered?

 

[Lee Thompson]

.

That is it!!! Does it say anything about leaving the middle check ball out of the VB?

 

[MSDGN]

I don't have the kit yet...this is just info I got from Art Carr...I did ask if anything needed to be done with the VB...he said No...what about the O-ring on the input shaft...he didn't mention that...does it have to be removed?

 

[KEhrhardt]

That is it!!! Does it say anything about leaving the middle check ball out of the VB?

Doesn't this firm up the 1->2 shift? I remember someone telling me to leave that check ball out for it to shift harder 1->2. I think it was Pat Barrett at Level 10.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Guys have any instruction on this?
i have a 2004r that i am putting a non lockup in,and i dont have any instructions.
I am installing a Gil Younger 7-ccv non lockup setup.

Currently i have my setup out, and ready to install my new non lockup setup, just ZERO instructions.....but just been about 3-4 years since i converted a car to non lockup....

Parts on left are new non lockup, old stuff is on the right, how and where do they go? do i have all the correct parts?

Like i said been awhile
BW

 

[Lee Thompson]

I'll try

Starting @ the left---#2-4 and 6 have nothing to do with the lockup. The o-ring ( #2) looks like an input shaft o-ring. #4 and #6 are the low overrun assembly that goes in the VB.
#5 goes in the bore first (where the double spring would go)
#1 goes in next ( may have to grind some off)
# 3 goes in next (the end with the cross drilled hole goes in first)
The disc with small hole goes in, then the snap ring.
That is why you may have to grind the small pin (usually come extra long) as you want 0 travel in the stack up once finished.
Piece of cake.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

I read your info and i want to thank you Lee for helping me... i still need to know where the other goes in the valve body.
I am going with a tbrake with it too, i know that one...

BW

 

[Lee Thompson]

Ok

With the VB upside down and the manual valve away from you. From the bottom left, go up 3 bores, it should go like this---starting @ the back of the bore and working your way out----a large roll pin --the spring---the spool (valve) with the shaft end going in first, so the spring will fit over it---an aluminum disc and finally another large roll pin to hold it all in.
I am looking at a Gil Younger shift kit instructions. It shows some VB have another spring and spool behind the first roll pin I mentioned. I don't have that much experience but all I have done do not. The bore is empty behind the second pin. Best of luck
BTW, on a BRF the specs on the spring are
Medium blue spring
.402 dia.
.046 wire dia.
1.200 long
13 coils