Looking for roll control setup and switch

tim87tr

Obsession or Digression?
Joined
Sep 19, 2001
I've found a couple monetary button switches on Jegs and Summit, but open to other ideas. I'd like to mount a button on the shifter stalk, but not sure the best setup, or other locations that are best? What is your button setup (parts and location)?
 
I used the Hurst Roll control. Comes with Activation button and light. I mounted the button on the shift stalk just under the handle. Easy to hold when doing a burnout and the button has a thick rubber sleeve that you slide down the stalk, the button has been in place for over a year without any problems.
 
Originally posted by bwallace
I used the Hurst Roll control. Comes with Activation button and light. I mounted the button on the shift stalk just under the handle. Easy to hold when doing a burnout and the button has a thick rubber sleeve that you slide down the stalk, the button has been in place for over a year without any problems.
I have looked at that on Summit and enlarged the picture, but didn't notice the boot. Does it just hold the long button onto the shifter stalk? I have to decide whether to just buy a button and use a roll control off my other car, that doesn't work well due to it's location, or spend the $$ and have a nice setup with the Hurst.

I also thought about the location today and had some concern over accidentally bumping that button on a 2-3 manual shift, and just locating a switch in the ashtray location instead.
 
Here's what I did:
I bought the Summit line lock, I couldn't figure out how to get the brake lines to seat properly, turns out, you need to use a separate fitting to make it so the brake lines will seal in the fitting... but anyway, I returned it and got the Hurst one, which turned out to be the EXACT same thing, the only differences being $40 and the Hurst one has a Chrome heat sink thing, and the Summit one is painted... so I got the Summit one again.

Anyway, I mounted it on the firewall, because it was by far, the easiest way to mount it, though I wish it wasn't as visible. For the wires, I ran them through the hole in the firewall that I had my boost gauge vacuum line running through. From there, I ran one wire up the A-pillar to my boost gauge pod, and the other wire to my fuse box (I think). For a switch, I went to AutoZone and the only switch that was lighted was a toggle switch. I wired it so that the light was on when the line lock was engaged. For the leads to the switch, I used the positive and negative lines that went to the boost gauge. To mount it, I drilled a hole the size of the switch, and had the toggle mounted on the top left of the boost gauge. It's easy to access, and the bright red light will be very noticeable if the line lock is ever accidentally engaged.
 
You can slide the button/Switch all the way down the shifter shaft whatever works for you. I have never had a problem accidentally hitting the switch, but if that is a concern, to engage the line lock you have to pump the brakes which is unlikely when upshifting though the gears. You can also purchase the hurst roll control kit that contains additional brake line and fittings. I placed the roll control on the inner fender well across from the MC and plumbed one line to the MC and bent the front brakeline to the roll control.
 
Re: Roll Control/Line Lock button

Originally posted by GNut
Check out the "Other Products" link at www.gnxdash.com
It's the perfect set up!!
Can you send me a picture of that, I can't get the picture to load on that page. I kind of like that idea and noticed a Hurst integrated handle on Summit, but didn't know if it would fit a TR.
 
You can also use a toggle swith to toggle the horn switch for dual duty...

...as a roll control switch or horn button. :cool:
 
Re: You can also use a toggle swith to toggle the horn switch for dual duty...

Originally posted by Rickracer
...as a roll control switch or horn button. :cool:
I got the system hooked up and wired. I did find a hidden toggle switch also. I still have to bleed my brakes, but the roll control activates and begins to keep the car from rolling. I think bleeding the brakes will make it work better.

My dumb question is how to get my activation light (two terminals), to work when the switch is ON. I really thought I had it figured out but guess not:confused: . One wire to the switch is from the Line Lock, the other wire on the switch goes to the ignition connection in the fuse panel. Just need the correct wiring method for the switch.
 
If the activation light is in the switch, then you don't have enough terminals ...

...on the switch. It should have 3. If it is separate, then you need a hot from the LL, and a ground.
 
Re: If the activation light is in the switch, then you don't have enough terminals ...

Originally posted by Rickracer
...on the switch. It should have 3. If it is separate, then you need a hot from the LL, and a ground.
The switch only has two terminals and the light is seperate and has two terminals. I'll try that hot from the line lock and a ground on the two terminals of the light.....is that correct?
 
Thanks for the help, it works now. I figured out that grounds are important in 12V since even with it hooked up correctly, which I may have accomplished previously, the light won't work if the ground is not good.
 
FWIW
I have the Hurst model and I mounted the button on the tilt column lever. I mounted it facing the dash so it is nearly invisable.

HTH
 
That sounds like a stealthy place to mount. I've been thinking of the ashtray but the tilt stalk might be the place now.
 
Originally posted by TRDirks
FWIW
I have the Hurst model and I mounted the button on the tilt column lever. I mounted it facing the dash so it is nearly invisable.

HTH
That does sound like a good location, but I don't have tilt and used an existing switch in the ashtray.

I was at Radio Shack yesterday and found several momentary switchs, on/off click buttons, and even a low profile rocker switch with a small light in the switch, that could be used for LLs or other TR switches.
 
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