Low 11 second cars - what are you using?

Originally posted by CopGn


9" n/l 3200 converter. <--Stay with L/U

50 injectors. Bigger will let me run more boost as the 50 will only run 24lbs max with the 67 but to do that is flirting with breaking the mostly stock block. <--VERY marginal! An Inj. DC of NMT than 80% is considered optimal. Inadequate injectors are one of the leading causes of detonation & the resultant engine destruction.

Front mount, probably precision. Still thinking on which front mount as money is always an issue. <-- Upgrade the stocker.
When you're running in the mid/lower-10s, or cut a hit album, get the #1 FMIC, made by Jack Cotton

oil filter relocation kit <--Get the Biggie adaptor from RJC & save $$



HTH :)
 
Two Lane thank you but a couple questions as I wish to know as much as I can about the GN. Are you saying if I go with a bigger injector I can run more psi safely (fuel supply not being an issue)without going to steel main caps or girdle? All I have on the stock block is forged piston and rebuilt heads with a small port job.

For a car that is mostly street driven do you think putting a big neck on the stocker would be adequate? Do you think after a couple full throttle blasts the stocker will be done? Do you think the stocker will limit the amount of boost?

Why do you suggest the lock up?

Thank you for the tip on the biggie adapter. :)
 
I'd be in the Low 11's now in street trim( 93+alky) if My 3600 converter:rolleyes: was a 3600 and not a 2800:mad: .
3lb launches don't make for good 60ft times.
I'm going to get good at pulling this trans out :D.
Runs 120.5 mph in 85-90deg heat
picked up 2 mph by moving my shifts from 5400 to 5800.
T63
V2
P&P heads,210/210 bil. roller
83's
Jace brace
Fel Pro
Hemco TB and upper.
All the normal small stuff
hooker exh (closed up)
Stock manifolds
Fully loaded hard top car with NO weight reduction.

B Mason has been 10.70@nearly 128mph 27psi with a similar combo to mine with a stock cam :eek:
 
I don't know if a Dutt neck on a stock intercooler would be good for a low 11 car?
I think the stocker will be done after 1 run unless it's frosty outside.
Maybe if you have lots of time between runs?
The stocker in my 86-T takes a good long while to cool down.
I need a garden sprayer full of ice water!
If I touched it after a run I'd proably leave some skin on it:eek:

The V2 after a run is maybe 10deg warmer than the air temp.
2 elect fans help alot.
 
I don't have the track time to support my claim yet, but I do believe I should be able to go low 11's with 22\25 lbs of boost (alky and 116octane) and great traction (real slicks) and maybe high 10's 27\30 lbs of boost and great traction with my current combo and proper tuning. :D

ps: 5lb launch
 
Raven:

A reliable combo for me has been a PTE-60, MSD-50's, PTE-FM, stock cam, stock heads, EGT meter, and massive fuel volume. This combo ran 11.50's all day (no bar) without breaking a sweat. When I get into those let's see what she'll do today moods, it has gone as quick as 11.18. It really depends on how hard you want to lean on your car.

What people have posted prior to this are all good suggestions, it really comes down to what you're willing to do. I personally never got my TE44 past 11.70's, but I know there are people that are running way past that. I moved to a different turbo before maxing it out. Even the above PTE-60/MSD-50 daily driver combo is about to change.

I'd say, go with at least a T63E, a what used to be called a 9x11 (3400), double pumpers, 65lbs injectors, ET Streets and go to the track and start working with it. :)

-Bobby
 
Originally posted by azgn
realistically, a low 11 sec ride needs better heads or you are gonna be running crazy boost to get there...I put my '45A on before the heads were done and 30 lbs was the norm (and that was for 11.20's)

if you want a reliable low 11 car, build a 10 sec car.....that means heads, cam, and the ability to run good (1.5x) 60' times

turbos smaller than a 45 or 63 ain't enough.......the supporting cast would include at least 55 lbers, a good I/C (doesn't have to be a front mount) 3" downpipe of the TH design, slicks, race gas, built trans, trans brake, 3500+ stall converter, built rear suspension to include control arms, shocks, springs, sway bar and a good chip to manage it all (I recommend the ME)


of course, an engine rebuild to include steel caps, will eventually be necessary, so you may as well do that now also

it seems that many of the bench racers on this board believe that TR's are "easy" low 11 sec cars......not true...as those who have been there will readily attest

they are, however, easy mid 11 sec cars......put your goals there, and you'll get it done easier, cheaper, more reliably, and won't give up much in the streetability area



Good answer! I've tried the low boost approach but it never panned out. It takes major upgrades to go 10's with low boost.
 
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