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LS1 brake rotor hub ????

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Robert Walton

Proud to be an Infidel
Joined
Jun 1, 2004
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Has anyone found a "bolt" on hub for the LS1 conversion??? Instead of machining the original rotor to size. Gracias :confused:
 
Don't most people doing this swap go ahead and change put the upper control arm as well as the spindle from a donor junk yard car?
 
Mad_Trbo said:
Don't most people doing this swap go ahead and change put the upper control arm as well as the spindle from a donor junk yard car?
Click to expand...

This is an LS1 Camaro swap NOT a B-Body Caprice swap
 
Robert Walton said:
Has anyone found a "bolt" on hub for the LS1 conversion??? Instead of machining the original rotor to size.
Click to expand...

FWIW, I spent a fair amount of time looking, and nothing was close.
 
I see, what does one gain between the two. LS1 is larger rotor?, by how much?
 
Mad_Trbo said:
I see, what does one gain between the two. LS1 is larger rotor?, by how much?
Click to expand...

The LS1 still has a 12" rotor like the Caprice but the calipers are dual piston which provides more clamping than the single Caprice caliper plus the Camaro calipers are aluminum vs. cast iron.

Also even with the Hotchkis upper control arms,the taller spindle from the Caprice creates funky angles with the upper ball joint. The Caprice swap also adds from 3/8 to 1/2" more track to the front. If you already bought wheels that fit the stock spindle assembly they may not work with the Caprice.

I've been told by some machine shops that cutting down the stock rotor for use as a hub could be dangerous. The heat from machining takes the temper out of the rotor/hub. Also been told that most replacement rotors are made of inferior off shore metal and could be brittle to start with.
 
Robert Walton said:
I've been told by some machine shops that cutting down the stock rotor for use as a hub could be dangerous. The heat from machining takes the temper out of the rotor/hub. Also been told that most replacement rotors are made of inferior off shore metal and could be brittle to start with.
Click to expand...

Take a close look at the other oem set-ups. Look at the vette hubs, heck any of the hub only set-ups. I beat on mine alot, and todate notta problem. I lost count of how many 70->0, and 80->0 *panic* stops I did with my G-Tech SS logging. Not to mention more then just a few, to demonstrate it's stopping power to friends. Or with 4 full sized adults in the car.

I started with oem GM rotors, for whatever that's worth.

BTW, the hubs aren't heat treated.

The rotor advantage is that the LS1's are 1.25" thick compared to the LE1 1.0" (or maybe it was 1.125"). But they are much thicker.
 
Aftermarket LS1 rotors are said to be inferior. All the LS1 guys I know stick with stock GM rotors and have not had a problem. I'm sure a good baer or wilwood rotor would not have the same defects as the autozone special rotors though.

IF you have done this conversion, where did you get the caliper adaptor made?
 
84TXGN said:
Aftermarket LS1 rotors are said to be inferior. All the LS1 guys I know stick with stock GM rotors and have not had a problem. I'm sure a good baer or wilwood rotor would not have the same defects as the autozone special rotors though.

IF you have done this conversion, where did you get the caliper adaptor made?
Click to expand...

*IF*?
I bought the whole set-up from the Parts for Sale section of this board. IF you want, you can do a search for it. It was $650. That's IF it's that important to. So there was no need for me to have an adapter made. It looks remarkably similiar to the ones mentioned in the T6P threads.
 
The B-body setup does give the problem of increased bumpsteer, which is actually why I'm converting to the LS1 setup with tall BJs.

The LS1 setup is also going to increase track width a bit, due to the thickness fo the rotor. I measured it last weekend but forget what it was at that point. It shouldn't be as much as the B-body swap.

There are several places you can get the brackets from. A quick search should yield a place or two.

That seems strange that people are sticking with GM rotors. From what I've been reading, most people ditch the GM rotors once the stockers warp then pick up the Autozones, which actually seem to work okay. Just what I've read though.
 
Robert Walton said:
I've been told by some machine shops that cutting down the stock rotor for use as a hub could be dangerous. The heat from machining takes the temper out of the rotor/hub. Also been told that most replacement rotors are made of inferior off shore metal and could be brittle to start with.
Click to expand...

Heat what heat? Its not like you are using a cutting torch to cut it down or a plasma cutter. Using a mill doesnt create that much heat.
 
I agree, Machining isn't going to make near as much heat as a panic stop at 60 mph in a 3600 lb. car. I've machined rotors and have never had them glowing red like I've seen them through the wheel after spirited driving.
 
Cutting the rotor off the hub is pretty easy for most any machine shop. Easiest thing to do is either buy a new rotor/hub from a parts house or pull a set from a salvage yard, that way you aren't down waiting on the parts to get machined. I havn't seen anybody that makes an aftermarket hub for the G-bodies either.
 
DavzGN said:
Try these then
Click to expand...

Then all you have to do is figure out how to get enough front tire under the car to actually use the C5 set-up (unless your actually road racing) :)
 
The C5 set-up would be cool to have, considerations of wheel size would play a larger role in the difference between the LS1 and C5 brake set-up. Until you have experienced the performance of LS1 brakes on a G-body its pretty hard to argue the difference. As for me, if I had to make a choice of the most difference one item made on my GN, it would be the brake upgrade.
Those are nice hubs by the way, I still think for the money stock hubs machined down would still work as good, but I'm a biased machinist :wink: .
 
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