well scott i want to keep the car mainly street driven and occasional track visits. i still want to maintain a/c and creature comforts. as you know this car was already a beast. it ran exceptionally well. i have been getting alot of advice from people. all the machine shops tell me to make this thing into a stroker and of course spend the most money possible. i'm thinking i can do alot less and still achieve my goal. turbobuRick has been a big help. he's one of the most helpful and knowledgeable guys you can meet. so within the next week or so i should know what i'm doing with this car. i just want to say thanks to everyone who has helped me out. i'll keep everyone posted.
machine shop in illinois
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well scott i want to keep the car mainly street driven and occasional track visits. i still want to maintain a/c and creature comforts. as you know this car was already a beast. it ran exceptionally well. i have been getting alot of advice from people. all the machine shops tell me to make this thing into a stroker and of course spend the most money possible. i'm thinking i can do alot less and still achieve my goal. turbobuRick has been a big help. he's one of the most helpful and knowledgeable guys you can meet. so within the next week or so i should know what i'm doing with this car. i just want to say thanks to everyone who has helped me out. i'll keep everyone posted.
what do you guys think abouy this in my car LOL
eBay Motors: Turbo CART Indy Buick V-6 racing or street rod engine (item 110269303126 end time Jul-14-08 09:55:41 PDT)
eBay Motors: Turbo CART Indy Buick V-6 racing or street rod engine (item 110269303126 end time Jul-14-08 09:55:41 PDT)
scot w.
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There is ALOT you would have to change to that engine to be able to run it in your car and that includes Pistons, Crank and other stuff needed to run a turbo application..
scot w.
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Jim if you ask me the Flat tappet cams are better for a Mostly street diven car! Rollers are nice, I know they are louder and I don't think a roller & stroked engine would be as street freindly. The builders would know best! But they do need to know what your goals are to be able to give you the best advice!
Here's what I would do in your situation and i'm SURE it would be the cheapest too!
I would go with a steel crank!
I would put a RJC girdle on it!
I would keep the Billit mains too! (They did keep that crank in there
)I would put in a smaller Flat tappet cam! (smaller makes it more effeciant in a lower RPM range, Thus making it even better on the street)
Flat Tappet cams will work fine with the correct break in and the proper maintanance...
That cam that was in there was great way up top but down low it was not for what we want.
Jim keep in mind "All you need here is just a nice solid and stronger bottom end"! You have EVERYTHING else to compliment the bottom end.
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My therory has always been, (if it's not broke don't fix it).
Me personly, I would get a steel crank and some new bearings and slap it in.
Done!
Me personly, I would get a steel crank and some new bearings and slap it in.
Done!
scot w.
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Although that may work fine, If I was Jim in this situation I would Pull the engine and take it to a reputable engine builder and at least have them go through it. Jim would save ALOT of money buy doing this the first time around!!My therory has always been, (if it's not broke don't fix it).
Me personly, I would get a steel crank and some new bearings and slap it in.
Done!
Taking the engine to a reputable builder will be the best & safest way to go in the long run!!
PS: Jim please keep us posted on the progress on when and where you took it to and what is all being done to it...
Scot W.
ya no problem.i will be bring it to a reputable engine builder for sure,and will have it all checked thats for sure.the rollor cam and steel crank are a forsure thing.as far as building it into a stroker is still a unsure thing.
i will keep everyone posted.dont worry sscot the gn will be better and stronger than it was before.
ttypewhite
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If i was in your position I would put a hydralic roller cam in it and call it a day. I have went from flat tappet to hydralic roller, My car is 99% street 1% strip. The hydralic roller is by far the better more reliable choice over the flat tappet. I had a FT cam in my car for over 12 years. Tried every FT cam under the sun. I noticed my gains started when I had switched to HR cam and extended the revs another 400-500 rpm more. Very streetable, no issues there. This year I put a solid roller in it and love it. My car is not my daily driver, but when I come home from work, I stretch the legs in it every day its dry outside. The steal crank is nice but in my opinion its overkill. If your car is a street car, then majority of the time its not set on kill and doesn't gets abused at every stoplight. The osscasional time that you do take it to the track, make sure you run C16 and make the program a little on the fat side and you are good. If you want race, then build for race, if you want street then build for street. Scot nailed it, what are your goals? How fast do you want your car to be when you go to the track? I ran my last years setup for 8 years and never pulled it out of the car for nothing. When I sold that motor the engine builder was so proud to see it needed nothing and gave it a quick refresh before I sold it. That was with stock crank, rods, a forged piston, stock comp with a hydralic roller cam and aluminum heads in a full weight car. Spend the money and have it tuned well and you would be very happy.
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ttypewhite
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If you had a problem and had to pull the motor out. Then sure a steal crank would be an option. They are just as expensive as a stock crank. I agree. But I was talking about his application that is running good. Seems like overkill to me to pull down a good running piece just for a steal crank. I would put a hydralic roller in there and call it a day. IMO the best thing to ensure longevity is good tunning. On the street cars don't get thrashed like track cars. I drive mine civil more then I do hot footing it. Thats why for a street car at this givin time with his combo I think it is overkill. When the motor needs a fresh up, buy all your goodies at once and go to town.
scot w.
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Mike he ended up cracking the crank at the #3 rod journal. So Jim will have to relace the crank! I don't have experiance owning a roller cam but have heard them at BG and did notice they run more noisy than the flat tappet's do, that's the only reason I recomended the flat tappet cam, also the cost factor involved! I was trying to give Jim some decent advice to keep costs down. As you and alot of people here already know it's real easy to get carried away with a build and come to find out that now you decide to just drive it on the street and now you have a build that is pretty much overkill for the streets. BUT! I think Jim likes to get on it a bit whether it be street racing or at the track so I think it would be to his best intrest to build it nice and strong for those times.
There are some VERY GOOD reputable builders out there today that when told what your goals are can give some great advice on what to do! Take the whole engine to one of them and have them go through it and then tell you what it will need to meet your goals.
BTW: Good advice Mike! :smile:
Scot W.
ttypewhite
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Wow, sorry guys, thats what you get for not reading.:redface: By all means then, yes I would put in a steal crank in a heart beat. If you send it to DLS, Dan is not a fan of girdles and he will let you know that up front. Steal crank and steal caps is more then enough. He has had builds deep in the 9's without girdles. Dan would defintely be my first choice. His attention to detail is next to none. I have a lot of respect for him, he has gone over and above the call of duty with my new build. The guy is just awesome, nothing more I can say about DLS.
Scot, just food for thought. there are 2 versions of lifters that can be used with a hydralic roller cam. One is a race version zero lash type ( 853 I had these) a little noiser then the other version, but once the hood is closed you will only hear your exhaust tone. The other is the usual 1/4 or half turn on a adjustable rocker once you have felt tension (this is pretty quiet, I believe it is the 859 version). The diference in price is about $50 or so.
Scot, just food for thought. there are 2 versions of lifters that can be used with a hydralic roller cam. One is a race version zero lash type ( 853 I had these) a little noiser then the other version, but once the hood is closed you will only hear your exhaust tone. The other is the usual 1/4 or half turn on a adjustable rocker once you have felt tension (this is pretty quiet, I believe it is the 859 version). The diference in price is about $50 or so.
GNVYUS 1
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Whoa, you park your car in your living room?
How quick is DLS from drop off to pick up??
I've got a 210/215 HR and it's not any different IMO sound or idle than my trusty 206 from ESP. The power plate helps the idle smooth out and 800rpms is plenty to smooth the lope.
DLS has a 3.5" DP for cheap and what brand are his Forged Cranks?
Gotta put one of those in for sure.
How quick is DLS from drop off to pick up??
I've got a 210/215 HR and it's not any different IMO sound or idle than my trusty 206 from ESP. The power plate helps the idle smooth out and 800rpms is plenty to smooth the lope.
DLS has a 3.5" DP for cheap and what brand are his Forged Cranks?
Gotta put one of those in for sure.
scot w.
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Yiks!DLS said it could be up to 12 months
Well now that it's out is the time to make it purdy again! :biggrin: Scot W.
Don't know if you made your mind up yet..... but Lee Thompson is fairly close to Indy..... not sure how far that is from you.
He has built many turbo 6's..... 109's.... stage motors... etc.... and has a competent machinist doing the machine work. He will do you a good job as well... engine or tranny...
He has built many turbo 6's..... 109's.... stage motors... etc.... and has a competent machinist doing the machine work. He will do you a good job as well... engine or tranny...
Yiks!
Scot W.
ya now that it is out i will be doing some major cleaning to engine bay and engine.
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