wanting to install a mbc on my gn, but not sure on how exactly it should be hooked up. seems like everyone has their own way of hooking one up. I have a hd adj. with adj. rod. How do I hook up a mbc. I have two different bc's that I can use (i guess). I have a bleeder type like comes on a co2 or argon regulator used for welding regulators that controls gas flow to welding (looks very similar to what jason sales) and i have a spring type like everyone talks about (I guess like comes on a small compressor or etc.) Will these work. If so, how do I set my adj. actuator and then where should I start out with my adj. on the mbc?
manual boost controller
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If you have one like Jason at RJC sells that has a spring loaded check ball inside, installation is very simple.
Looking at these pictures,
The bottom of the valve attaches to a vacuum/pressure source. This can be either straight off the compressor cover as pictured, or teed off one of the vacuum lines on the throttle body vacuum distribution block. The other end of the bleeder valve that has the adjustable nut portion connects straight to the barb on your heavy duty wastegate actuator. It is best to adjust your wastegate actuator with about 1/8" of an inch preload, meaning adjust the rod so that you only have to pull the rod about 1/8 of an inch to slip it onto the swing valve arm. On a heavy duty actuator, this should put your minimum boost level to around 19-20psi, even when the boost control valve is adjusted almost all the way out. On a standard spring actuator is should be around 14-15psi.
Here's How it works.
Boost pressure enters the bottom of the bleeder valve and hits the spring loaded check ball. The boost pressure has to over come the adjusted spring tension. Once the pressure over comes your set spring tension the ball moves enough to open up the passage inside the valve to allow the boost to go to the wastegate actuators diaphragm. Now the boost pressure must over come the preset spring pressure of the wastegate actuator, before it will move the wastegate swing valve, and regulate the amount of exhaust that hits the turbine wheel. Effectively controlling the the turbine wheel speed and stabilizing the boost level produced by the compressor wheel. This delayed affect on the pressure when it first hits the check ball in the boost regulator valve, is what helps with spool up. We are in a sense delaying the boost pressure signal from reaching the wastegate actuator until the very last second. Under normal operating conditions when hooked up tuner style, the boost signal goes straight to the actuator and can cause the wastegate valve to crack open while the turbo is spooling up.
Hope this helps a little.
Patrick
Looking at these pictures,
The bottom of the valve attaches to a vacuum/pressure source. This can be either straight off the compressor cover as pictured, or teed off one of the vacuum lines on the throttle body vacuum distribution block. The other end of the bleeder valve that has the adjustable nut portion connects straight to the barb on your heavy duty wastegate actuator. It is best to adjust your wastegate actuator with about 1/8" of an inch preload, meaning adjust the rod so that you only have to pull the rod about 1/8 of an inch to slip it onto the swing valve arm. On a heavy duty actuator, this should put your minimum boost level to around 19-20psi, even when the boost control valve is adjusted almost all the way out. On a standard spring actuator is should be around 14-15psi.
Here's How it works.
Boost pressure enters the bottom of the bleeder valve and hits the spring loaded check ball. The boost pressure has to over come the adjusted spring tension. Once the pressure over comes your set spring tension the ball moves enough to open up the passage inside the valve to allow the boost to go to the wastegate actuators diaphragm. Now the boost pressure must over come the preset spring pressure of the wastegate actuator, before it will move the wastegate swing valve, and regulate the amount of exhaust that hits the turbine wheel. Effectively controlling the the turbine wheel speed and stabilizing the boost level produced by the compressor wheel. This delayed affect on the pressure when it first hits the check ball in the boost regulator valve, is what helps with spool up. We are in a sense delaying the boost pressure signal from reaching the wastegate actuator until the very last second. Under normal operating conditions when hooked up tuner style, the boost signal goes straight to the actuator and can cause the wastegate valve to crack open while the turbo is spooling up.
Hope this helps a little.
Patrick
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No problemohhh.
I just had round 1 of tuning with the RJC valve on my own car today. Holy @$&# does it make the turbo spool up faster, especially when your turbo has dual ball bearings and a 3000 flash stall converter. It spools as fast as I can push the pedal.
Me likie, me likie a lot.....
Patrick
I just had round 1 of tuning with the RJC valve on my own car today. Holy @$&# does it make the turbo spool up faster, especially when your turbo has dual ball bearings and a 3000 flash stall converter. It spools as fast as I can push the pedal.
Me likie, me likie a lot.....
Patrick
Just recieved my boost controller and plan on installing tomorrow..decided on buying one instead of making one.
Me and my friend have different opinions on how this thing works...the way I understand that it works is that the boost controller controls the lower boost setting of when you will actually see boost come in. Example, lets say that I have it set at 10 lbs. I will not actually see any boost until 10lbs of pressure over rides spring tension and allows boost to go to the wastegate, then wastegate controls the amount of boost that it's adjusted to (lets say 20lbs)
My friend is telling me that what ever you have the boost controller adjusted to (lets say 10lbs again) that thats all the boost that you will get and that you will recieve it all at once.
Which is correct, if any??
Me and my friend have different opinions on how this thing works...the way I understand that it works is that the boost controller controls the lower boost setting of when you will actually see boost come in. Example, lets say that I have it set at 10 lbs. I will not actually see any boost until 10lbs of pressure over rides spring tension and allows boost to go to the wastegate, then wastegate controls the amount of boost that it's adjusted to (lets say 20lbs)
My friend is telling me that what ever you have the boost controller adjusted to (lets say 10lbs again) that thats all the boost that you will get and that you will recieve it all at once.
Which is correct, if any??
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Just tonight I went out and reset mine. She was running 24psi which was way too high. I took the hose off the barb and loosened the top, turning it counter clockwise out two turns. Turning it out two more would cause the adjustment part to come apart, basically taking the top off is how I can best describe it. I retested the boost at this setting and it ran a steady 20psi. So I turned it down just one full turn out using the direction that the hose barb points as my reference for one full turn.
On my car, the 90* hose barb points straight down towards the compressor cover. I retested, hehe, against a '05-'06 Roush Mustang at a redlight (yep street encounter but I had to work to make it happen, luckily caught up with him at a red light) We raced, boost went to 18-18.5psi, it was a good race, after she hooked up at the top of 2nd, I pulled about 2-2.5 cars on him and was walking away before I had to lift due to a stupid Explorer that was running blocker for his buddy in the Ford.
But it was still my first Mustang kill with Sarah, and it was a good test. Gotta get the sticky tires and alky and the next time it won't even be close.
This valve is very sensitive to adjustments. In my setup with the standard spring wastegate actuator, it is adjusted two full turns shorter than just slipping on without pulling it onto the swing valve. Adjusting it so that you don't have to pull it any and it will slip onto the swing valve is what I would call setting it to static setting. And the RJC was tightened down one full turn from being dis-assembled. Two full turns on the RJC was 20psi.
With a heavy duty actuator, you need to be very careful once you start tightening the RJC valve to raise the boost, due to the stronger spring inside the wastegate actuator.
HTH
Patrick
On my car, the 90* hose barb points straight down towards the compressor cover. I retested, hehe, against a '05-'06 Roush Mustang at a redlight (yep street encounter but I had to work to make it happen, luckily caught up with him at a red light) We raced, boost went to 18-18.5psi, it was a good race, after she hooked up at the top of 2nd, I pulled about 2-2.5 cars on him and was walking away before I had to lift due to a stupid Explorer that was running blocker for his buddy in the Ford.
But it was still my first Mustang kill with Sarah, and it was a good test. Gotta get the sticky tires and alky and the next time it won't even be close.This valve is very sensitive to adjustments. In my setup with the standard spring wastegate actuator, it is adjusted two full turns shorter than just slipping on without pulling it onto the swing valve. Adjusting it so that you don't have to pull it any and it will slip onto the swing valve is what I would call setting it to static setting. And the RJC was tightened down one full turn from being dis-assembled. Two full turns on the RJC was 20psi.
With a heavy duty actuator, you need to be very careful once you start tightening the RJC valve to raise the boost, due to the stronger spring inside the wastegate actuator.
HTH
Patrick
Thanks. It makes sense. Where do you install this on a stock turbo? I can not have it straight off the compressor cover on the front as the stock turbo doesnt have this. Does this setup rid of the Y? Which "y" do you put it into?
Thanks.
Jason
Thanks.
Jason
Take a look at the 2nd picture. Just move the assembly more towards the intake side of the turbo. You just run a line from the compressor housing to the inlet of the controller, and then the outlet to the wastegate. It gets rid of the stock y, and it no longer uses the wastegate solenoid thats on the passenger valve cover.
Is sensible to use the RJC unit as an IN CAR boost controller? I just ordered a BB GT6776 and converter and want to install an in car contoller, I hear RJC's is the best but havent heard of anyone using it as an in car controller. Anyone done this yet?
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I have thought of mounting mine inside the car, you will have to route two vacuum lines inside the car. One from pressure source, one from controller back to wastegate. The only downside to doing this could possibly be a little bit of lag due to having to fill the long run of hose with boost, then once the pressure inside the RJC overcomes the spring and opens up, now this pressure has to travel back through the other long piece of hose to the wastegate. Exactly how much lag there might be has never been tested, unless you were able to datalog your boost curve with RPM like with a FAST or BS3 datalog, then you could see the difference in spool up with the valve mounted at the turbo and mounted inside the car. The other downside to mounting the valve inside the car is, it's going to be very hard to adjust the boost on the fly / on the move because you will have to pull the hose off of the 90* hose barb in order to tighten or loosen the controller. Sure you can pull over and do it in a parking lot, and it would not heat up as it will being mounted close to the turbo, but I personally like the quick response of having it mounted as close to the wastegate as possible.
HTH
Patrick
HTH
Patrick
If you're going to use just the RJC controller, mount it as close to the wastegate as possible(shortest amount of hose for best response). If you run it into the cockpit, you will experience a "lag" of boost controller response while the extra line fills up with pressure. This "lag" causes the turbo to overboost(boost spiking) enough to cause serious engine damage, and depending on your tune, even with alky. That's precisely why I engineered my Quick-spool manual In-Car boost controller to overcome this. It uses a seperate microbleeder valve routed to the cockpit to take the "lag" out of it. It took a lot of trial and error and dyno testing to get it right, but it works great. Plus you get the same fast spool-up as just an underhood manual controller, but you can adjust mine from inside the cockpit. Not bad for $75 shipped!
Shoot me a PM or email: bullishness@gmail.com
Hope this helps clarify how it all works!
turbobose13
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Your lucky that stupid Explorer did not pull out a little latter, or you would be in the hospital, thank god it did not happened, be care full racing on the street.
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Thanks for the concern, actually I had plenty of time to slow down and I saw him even before the light went green. I just thought it was pretty ironic that a Ford was running blocker for another Ford that was getting it's rear end handed to him. It was more like an 1/8 mile race, and yes I will be more careful.
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