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MAP sensor red light to green illuminate light

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N2ORBT

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2001
Messages
92
So I had a 2004 alkycontrol kit installed when I bought my 87GN. Worked fine until pump started to leak then system totally would not work shortly afterward. Bought an entire new Kit minus a MAP sensor since Razor said maps do not go bad. The old system was very poorly installed once we started getting into it. Looked like a birds nest under dash and most connections were poorly installed with bad grounds and do not have any led lights installed that even showed system turned on. Had a buddy help me with new kit and we really took our time installing the new one making sure it was done right. Upon testing the unit(no alky in tank) we pressed the test button and all looked good according to manual. the power injection bulb illuminated, the low level light was illuminated, and the single LED light next to my boost gauge lit red. we tested it again and held the test button down for about 3 seconds and the read light changed to green which is exactly what the manual stated it would do. Fulled tank with M1 and took it for a test drive and everything was on the money. Later on, I tested the unit again with test button, and the LED red light would not change to green even though we held the button down for several seconds. the car would still bog down so the alky was spraying. I tookk the car up to the 6-7 lbs of boost and witnessed the LED light turn red but not turn green afterward. Went up to 10 lbs still no knock but LED light would not change to green. Only at 13-14 lbs of boost the LED light changes to green instead of the 6-7lbs the manual says it should change to green. My question is obviously the light changes to green but at a higher boost level than the manual says it should. And secondly, the light will not change from red to green during test mode holding the botton for a few seconds at idle. Should I be alarmed? And yes, we triple checked the connections and made sure there was proper voltage to the MAP sensor wire with a good ground.
 
So I had a 2004 alkycontrol kit installed when I bought my 87GN. Worked fine until pump started to leak then system totally would not work shortly afterward. Bought an entire new Kit minus a MAP sensor since Razor said maps do not go bad. The old system was very poorly installed once we started getting into it. Looked like a birds nest under dash and most connections were poorly installed with bad grounds and do not have any led lights installed that even showed system turned on. Had a buddy help me with new kit and we really took our time installing the new one making sure it was done right. Upon testing the unit(no alky in tank) we pressed the test button and all looked good according to manual. the power injection bulb illuminated, the low level light was illuminated, and the single LED light next to my boost gauge lit red. we tested it again and held the test button down for about 3 seconds and the read light changed to green which is exactly what the manual stated it would do. Fulled tank with M1 and took it for a test drive and everything was on the money. Later on, I tested the unit again with test button, and the LED red light would not change to green even though we held the button down for several seconds. the car would still bog down so the alky was spraying. I tookk the car up to the 6-7 lbs of boost and witnessed the LED light turn red but not turn green afterward. Went up to 10 lbs still no knock but LED light would not change to green. Only at 13-14 lbs of boost the LED light changes to green instead of the 6-7lbs the manual says it should change to green. My question is obviously the light changes to green but at a higher boost level than the manual says it should. And secondly, the light will not change from red to green during test mode holding the botton for a few seconds at idle. Should I be alarmed? And yes, we triple checked the connections and made sure there was proper voltage to the MAP sensor wire with a good ground.
sounds like it is running perfect. you need to set the alky on max and prime to see if it changes red to green. as long as it is bogging motor at a lower setting means it is spraying. the light does not go to green at 6 or 7 it goes red. another thing i dont know how you got the system to go green with no alky in it. it needs to sense pressure to do that. you can call julio and ask him if you can turn the pump head screw to lower the turn on to 10 but i dont think you need to. you also should run the pump when it is dry
 
quip6, thanks for your reply. You are right, I forgot the setting needs to be on #8 when doing the test mode from red to green. I was doing it while the setting was on #5 and it remained red. I just re-did it at #8 during idle and it immediately went from red to green. so that solves that issue. Also, I think you're right on the meth not being present during the initial test phase. I added meth in after I verified the 3 lights illuminated. Everything works flawlessly. I must say, I had every intentions of removing the old alky kit from the car when I purchased it cuz I was ignorant about alky kits, but after running it for a lil bit I was HOOKED! No way was I ever going back to not running alky! Razors kits rock! Lastly, why do you reccomend to run the pump dry? Isnt that a no-no and can burn it out?
 
my bad i meant to say not to forgot to put it in sorry.


cool, I just did some test runs. Car seems to like setting #4. Went down to #3 1/2 and got a couple degrees of knock so leaving it at #4 for now. Running 21lbs as of now, maybe gonna go up to 23lbs max with stock turbo and use setting #5.
 
cool, I just did some test runs. Car seems to like setting #4. Went down to #3 1/2 and got a couple degrees of knock so leaving it at #4 for now. Running 21lbs as of now, maybe gonna go up to 23lbs max with stock turbo and use setting #5.

What happens is the lower the Gain number the less voltage is applied to run the pump. The lower the voltage, the slower the motor turns. When you start going to far down in voltage the pump doesnt act responsive, and makes it lazy. This can lead to knock issues, issues with LED changing from red to green, etc.

Place knob a little higher and pull fuel out of the chip. Example from 4 go to 6 and take some fueling out of the chip. That way the alky kit is more responsive.

If you want to keep a lesser amount injected, contact me and we can drop nozzle from the M15 to an M10 and you can run a higher gain number as the secondary solution. But I typically get more inquiries of system not changing from red to green when the Gain has been turned down.

Hope this helps,

Julio
 
Razor, correct me if I'm wrong but "6" is the default setting. I was running this at BG and after looking at my log I see I'm a little fat down low. I plan on taking some fuel out in the bottom and adding a touch on top. I plan on keeping it around "6" to have a little room to adjust. "4" sounds a TOUCH low....but I'm nowhere NEAR and expert.
 
Razor, correct me if I'm wrong but "6" is the default setting. I was running this at BG and after looking at my log I see I'm a little fat down low. I plan on taking some fuel out in the bottom and adding a touch on top. I plan on keeping it around "6" to have a little room to adjust. "4" sounds a TOUCH low....but I'm nowhere NEAR and expert.

Said this way.. Use alcohol for knock suppression. Use gasoline for air fuel adjustments. If you reduce alcohol you reduce protection.

If its a little fat down low, you can adjust that out in the chip. Example reduce fuel pressure a little and add WOT fueling.
 
My LED seems to be green at lower boost levels or when I'm rolling into it, but at WOT and say 19-20 psi the LED is Red, is that normal? Just wanna make sure lol
 
@streetknight. According to the manual it says that if the light does not change to green during boost to immediately shut down.
 
My LED seems to be green at lower boost levels or when I'm rolling into it, but at WOT and say 19-20 psi the LED is Red, is that normal? Just wanna make sure lol

Wires on led are backwards
 
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