Methanol Sources

thunderace31 said:
Thanks has anyone tried using Ethanol since would suport the local farmers and such plus its not a petrolum baised product I hate gas companys lol :rolleyes:

I have used ethanol and isopropyl with great luck.
 
Corrigan Oil Company
744 East South Street
Jackson, MI 49203
517-937-4061 Salesman Steve Cell #
Minimum 55 Gal As of 1-26-06 $115 w/o drum deposit, at the dock.
 
Island Dragway in Great Meadows NJ.

Only trouble is, I need my 5 gallons to last all winter until the track opens again.
Home Depot gets $13 a gallon for Denatured Alchohol and I get the Methanol at Island for $2.50 a gallon.
 
Yeah I know there a friggen rip over there, I am seriously thinking about getting Razor's kits and I have no idea where to get this stuff, if anybody in the NY/NJ/LI area knows please post here.
 
Contact

East Coast Supercharging
609-752-0321

Theyre in Cream Ridge NJ

HTH
 
Thanks Julio, I will contact you shortly for the kit, been doing a lot of reading on it and cant wait to tackle it. might call a few times though :cool:

Sorry I know you didn't want to make this tech but quick question methanol(sp) is the best to use correct? and is there different types of methanol?

Thanks again,
 
Hey julio, hope all is well. Can you explaint to me if there if alky injection and silent detonation has something in common?? my steel mains were black and #3 main almost distorted. Engine builder told me alky injection can cause silent detonation..



thanks
Ralph
 
JoeNational said:
Thanks Julio, I will contact you shortly for the kit, been doing a lot of reading on it and cant wait to tackle it. might call a few times though :cool:

Sorry I know you didn't want to make this tech but quick question methanol(sp) is the best to use correct? and is there different types of methanol?

Thanks again,

Its is my choice, but I will use denatured alcohol as well if I had too.

Methanol is methanol. Purity is what will vary from sources. The racing forms are the purest. Dont know if that makes any difference as we use it. Racing as in VP, Sunoco, Phillips66, etc.

Whatever you end up using.. stick with it. Just like gas stations.. dont bounce around cuase mixing gasolines with different additives.. dont want to find out if there is an issue.

hth
 
gnfanatic said:
Hey julio, hope all is well. Can you explaint to me if there if alky injection and silent detonation has something in common?? my steel mains were black and #3 main almost distorted. Engine builder told me alky injection can cause silent detonation..



thanks
Ralph

Ralph.. your Off Topic :cool:

No. More than likely he screwed up with bearing clearances creating the issue. This is extremely common when steel mains are used. As they have to be cut to fit.. then lots of massaging. Its very easy to make a mess.

This is why I built mine using the stock mains and a girdle. To try and eliminate machine shop errors. On my motor my mains are at .0019-.0020. Rods are at .002. I used the redrilled cam bearings to push more oil to the bottom. So far so good.. tons of passes.

Now when injecting an extreme amount of alcohol, you can get pre-ignition. Pre-ignition is another form of detonation. On my kit and a Buick.. probably have to run 3 M15 nozzles at full boogie then bounce of the rev limiter for a good amount of time.

Your oil when racing the motor has to be frequently changed. Methanol or not. As the heat and wash down associated with racing will break down the best oil. If the dipstick is not honey colored... change the oil. Waiting for XXX amount of miles will destroy any high boosted motor. Think of it this way, 500 miles=2000 1/4 mile passes. If your not racing the motor, then normal oil change intervals can be observed. Oil is the cheapest maintenance.. and the one most overlooked.

Better check the bearings for patterns after getting it back from the machine shop. You dont want to see any scuffing, and confirm the clearances above. Heat is what kills bearings.. comes from lack of lubrication. If you were not changing the oil on the motor letting it turn black.. and racing it.. then that would have cuased your bearing failure.

Need any advice.. you can always call.. I think you went to an XFI.. if so, I can send you my .gct and it may help you get squared away a lot faster.

Now back on topic please.. ;)
 
Razor,
Sorry to go off topic again but in response to your last post, would you recommend using synthetic oil or regular motor oil for racing?
 
If money is no object, synthetic.

I run 10w40 advance auto parts havoline oil. Its 5.00 for a gallon. And I go through tons of it..

When I ran the Mobil 1 long ago, I always second guessed changing the oil.. as the Mobil 1 oil and Mobil 1 filter would cost me over 40.00. Using the conventional oil.. and a Bosch/AC Delco filter.. no more guessing.. bout 11.00 bucks.. drop and go.
 
Thanks, I'll probably go with the cheap stuff too since I change it so often. $5.00 a gallon sure beats $5.00 a quart. :eek:

BTW, I think I posted before but where I live, Island Dragway in Great Meadows has the Meth for 2.50 a gallon during racing season.
 
College Station, Tx
Eaker Performance
(979)775-7223
$15.00 for 5 gal.

For those who need to get methanol shipped to you, McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com carries 99% pure methanol. Expensive, but an option.
1-gal can---$15.73 P#3190k323
5-gal can---$48.06 P#3190k324
 
Doc's Auto Repair in Rantoul, IL sold it to me for $2.50/gal last week. He uses it in his methanol powered camaro.
 
Advanced Engine Machine
Salina, KS
2.25 per gal. or 110 for 55 gal. drum.
Sunoco Brand
 
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