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Mickey ET drags vs PRO drag radials Input and comments

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Is that mileage on ET streets or radial pros?

They are in my sig.

I run 295/50/16 ET Streets.

They will last longer than the ET Pros and the ET streets have tread in case you get caught in the rain. The ET pros are a track tire with a street dot stamp in name only.

They will hook better the the ET street because there is more rubber on the asphalt and the racing side wall design, but like already mentioned they are both the same compound.

Unless your dropping a lot of presidents on a race and need every advantage I would stick with the ET streets or if you want, the M+H race masters drag radial is also a good choice with a little better mileage but a little less grip.

I would run the M+H if they had my size in a 16" tire.
 
I have the same problem you do and if you have a 28x12.5 racing tire and need more traction, where do you think you'll find it? lol. There is no more tire for you. At this point I'm assuming rolled lips and a frame notch right? Trust me, there is no tire that will help you on street concrete at this point. I suggest more suspension tuning. Last season I could break my 28x10.5 et drags loose on the street at anything past a 3 psi launch. And that was with alll my shit turned down. You have way more hp than I do. Not gonna happen unless you tweak your suspension. Just got my new ET streets and wow are they soft. I could fold this tire up and put it in my pocket. No way you're getting anything softer; not to the point where it will matter anyways.
For what it's worth last season (I'm street only) I completely wore out a pair of 275/50 hoosier drag radials in 12 weekends worth of cruising/racing, mostly cruising. Traction was no different than my old beat up 245 Radial T/A's. The only tire that helped me was the 28x10.5 ET drags, and that was only for under 4psi launches, which is pretty good for the street to be honest. Though they were a touch too big for my stock frame/suspension car anyhow.


Now that's ODD ... I went 1.48's on a 255 Hoosier Drag radial and in the street with just a mild clean off I could stay in front of any AWD 11.0 car .. I think a lot of it can be made to work with the power management .
 
Now that's ODD ... I went 1.48's on a 255 Hoosier Drag radial and in the street with just a mild clean off I could stay in front of any AWD 11.0 car .. I think a lot of it can be made to work with the power management .

Power management? You're telling me you're staying in front any 11.0 car on the street - thus you can run tens on concrete? With 255's? LOVE to see that. So you're doing a zero psi launch, and peddling a high 9 second car. That's the only way, otherwise you'd have a high tens car but to stay ahead of an AWD 11.o car you'd need a hard ass launch. Love to see your suspension.
 
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Power management? You're telling me you're staying in front any 11.0 car on the street - thus you can run tens on concrete? With 255's? LOVE to see that.

yes that's what Im saying .. there are cars turning in the 9's on 235 radials on concrete ... the tire is only part of the equation .. some guys cant run 10's on a 305 tire
 
That's true but I was asking because some vehicles have better suspension geometries than others. It takes a lot of modification to make an 80's G body do 9's in the quarter on concrete with 235's.
 
That's true but I was asking because some vehicles have better suspension geometries than others. It takes a lot of modification to make an 80's G body do 9's in the quarter on concrete with 235's.
That was my point .. Dont rely on just the tire or suspension to get it done .. The 1.48 i listed above is a stock suspension car.. And alot of other guys on here have gone a heck of alot faster with about the same contact patch.. New style boost controllers and tuning ecu can unlock huge gains..
 
In these ecu tuning strategies, do you mean messing with the first gear offset to reduce power out of the hole to keep from spinning?
 
In these ecu tuning strategies, do you mean messing with the first gear offset to reduce power out of the hole to keep from spinning?

there are a few strategies you can deploy ... you can do BOOST control , timing control ... you can adjust slew rates of your boost curve, boost can be brought up by distance or by GPS speed or by time, you can literally feed the car as much power as the tires will hold at any given point.. it takes a while to get the power management right but its amazing to see just how much power you can put down to the asphalt when you don't shock the tires and suspension.
 
The problem you're having sounds like the same one I have.

If you put a new set on they work great. They will still break loose in first or second at anything above 10/12 lbs. of boost and when you hit max boost of say 26 psi in less than a second in my case on the street. Once up above 50 mph they are on the verge of losing grip but still hold traction and once you hit third the car doesn't dance from side to side like it does in second.

The traction of these or any other slick or D/R will drop off considerably the more you street drive them due to the heat cycles you put on the tires which changes the compound of the rubber and makes them harder.

That is just something you have to live with if you street drive D/Rs day in and day out like I do. I have no choice because the car is useless with regular tires, so I end up spending 2G a year on rear tires so I can HOOK and BOOK when I want to jump on it.
which tire are you running rob?
 
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