mild build questions

[slim86]

My current mods are in my sig, minus the converter; got a billet 9X11 3200 now. well put it in thursday, went for a short test drive and the turbo blew the seals, the wheel hit the housing on the intake side, and the exhaust wheel has a huge chip in one of the fins so i guess its new turbo time for me. My question is this: Im looking to build a 10.50-10.90 combo on the factory shortblock what turbo and other things am i looking at needing to do? I want to keep the stock location intercooler; will a dutt neck do or will i need an aftermarket one? heads? will porting the stockers do or do i need aftermarket ones? and will matching the stock intake work? I have seen a bunch of write-ups on here, and am confided on doing some of the porting my self any suggestions with that? Cam; I am looking at a fullthrottle roller kit with the morel lifters; the 210/215 one. I also would rather not have to change the converter again, so i was looking at a 6765 DBB for the turbo. All this on pump gas, and i know alky is on the list already. I know this is kinda loaded and is not going to happen over night, but i need to plan out a shopping list to start on. thanks in advance.

Aaron

 

[turb0buick57]

Has your car been to the track yet with the current combo?
Dont forget to ad a powerlogger or another datalogger to your list.

 

[slim86]

It was with the old converter, but the car couldnt get up out of its own way. I had planned on it with this new converter and was hoping for some much better times. with the D5 i had gotten a best of 13.0 at 103 with a 2.2 60ft. Now with the damage to the exhaust side of the TE-60 i figured it would be a good time to do some other power mods and allow whatever turbo i pick to be able to perform like it should.

 

[Nick Micale]

Here is my opinion having built many mid-10 sec GN's.

You NEED airflow, much more than stock, to make the power for the level you seek. Iron heads need to be max ported by a pro, and should have replacement intake valves, along with the ported intake.

A stock IC will not do the job, a G Body or Precision is the least required if you want to stay with stock location.

The converter is WAY too tight, 3600-3800 stall for decent track performance. Ball bearing turbos do not compensate enough for quick enough spool up at the line if you plan to compete.

Turbo sounds good. :smile:

Fuel system needs a double pumper, and of course injectors to fit the power level.

My cam choice would be a roller as you need the extra spring pressure to get to the RPM level for the torque required to pull the car that fast. That grind would not be my choice, as I have never used it. Talk to 2 or 3 people that have used that grind with a similar build as you have planned to find out how it works for them.

You did not mention suspension, but there needs to be consideration there also for decent track times.

It is very important to define the build before you start as the proper combination and selection of components must all work together to achieve your performance goals.

 

[slim86]

Thank you nick for the advise, got me thinking big time now. I would prefer not to go that high of a stall as i like to drive on the street, and want to be able to keep it that way. So here's what im thinking; please correct me if I'm off track: with the 6765 or 6776 turbo, champion ported iron heads, ported intake, stretched SLIC, roller cam (what grind would be recommended) and alky. If i used an LC-1 plugged into my genII translater, how far off would i be from the time i'm looking for? rear suspension has boxed control arms, and poly bushings so far if i do a rear sway bay, and bags. would that still not be enough? please tell me if im still really far off and underestimating this whole upgrade? thanks again.