milky oil flush?

[scot w.]

After blowing a head gasket and getting radiator fluid into your oil. What is the CORRECT way to flush the entire system. ( radiator, engine, oil lines )?

 

[Boost231]

i know how i would do it but i also wonder what is the correct way? anyone?

 

[scot w.]

i know how i would do it but i also wonder what is the correct way? anyone?

Information is the main reason for this thread. it would be very good information for future help. IF YOUV'E BEEN THROUGH THIS BEFORE CAN YOU PLEASE POST THE PROCESS YOU DONE!

Thanks you!
Scot w.

 

[Boost231]

i have never been threw this myself. just have kinda thought to myself how i would do it.

 

[mhogan6]

Pull the engine, tear it down. Milky oil and head gasket material has gotten to the bearings and oil pickup screen. Only way to do it right. IMO.
HTH


Mike

 

[87GNSteve]

When my LC2 engine in the GTA "milkshaked" I bought some cheap STP filters, really cheap 5w-30 (2 quarts) and poured a gallon of diesel/kerosene into the oil fill.
I cranked the motor 5 times for about 30 seconds with the fuel pump disabled (also giving the starter time to cool).
I then drained the pan and changed the filters. Then put another STP filter and some cheap 10w-30 oil (5 qts), reconnected the fuel pump, and ran the car for 15 minutes at idle, changed it again but letting it drain over night.
For the last one I put on a Mobil 1 filter and shell rottela T 15w-40.
I didnt have the option of pulling the pan on the F body so thats why I did it that way. Oil looked fine with that procedure I didnt want to take any chances.
But I was running plain water NOT anti-freeze.
Anti-freeze attacks bearing material.

 

[turbo nasty]

What was the situation/ where, when, why, how did the gasket pop???

Just about bet the bearings to a hit.
FWIW....All our old roundy round motors that would have a headgasket pop from time to time during the season and milkshake the oil but not get noisy or seize, etc.
When we did our tear down at the end of the season you could always see scores on the main and rod bearings from the coolant mix.

good luck

 

[Boost231]

When my LC2 engine in the GTA "milkshaked" I bought some cheap STP filters, really cheap 5w-30 (2 quarts) and poured a gallon of diesel/kerosene into the oil fill.
I cranked the motor 5 times for about 30 seconds with the fuel pump disabled (also giving the starter time to cool).
I then drained the pan and changed the filters. Then put another STP filter and some cheap 10w-30 oil (5 qts), reconnected the fuel pump, and ran the car for 15 minutes at idle, changed it again but letting it drain over night.
For the last one I put on a Mobil 1 filter and shell rottela T 15w-40.
I didnt have the option of pulling the pan on the F body so thats why I did it that way. Oil looked fine with that procedure I didnt want to take any chances.
But I was running plain water NOT anti-freeze.
Anti-freeze attacks bearing material.

this is the way i would think to do it. i would drop the pan on the last set just to clean it out and take a look at everything

 

[twstdv6]

You know, this is something to think about! MY headbolts were not torqued, Not sure how much Antifreeze/water got in the oil, but the gasket's were new from being rebuilt. I drained the antifreez, and ran car 15 min, with Radiator cap off, so no pressure in system. I had to run it, to flush out as much antifreeze as possible and quick. Just don't let it over heat. The oil cleared up and the level returned to normal. Soon as I put water in the radiator, milky again. So there might be something here with low to almost no water with no pressure. I am just going to flush the engine 2-3 times and go from there.