Misc Turbo Swap Questions

[BlackMetal]

Just pulled out the stock turbo. As much as I want to throw the new one in, I have a few questions first to make sure I don't have to go back and do anything later.

1) How many of you recommend the $15 copper gasket at the 3-bolt header flange? Is it really worth it or should I just make sure the flange surfaces are clean?

2) Should I replace my oxygen sensor while it's staring me in the face? Seems like it'll be a PITA considering it sits right after the turbo, don't want to pull out the threads if it's practically welded in there from the heat. Are Autozone sensors good enough or do I need to track down a GM sensor? Is there really any benefit to the "GNX" sensor?

3) I'm installing an aftermarket braided drain line. The factory drain line screws into an adapter block and then into the engine block. Does the aftermarket line screw into this adapter, or do I remove it and go directly into the engine?

4) Should I use teflon tape on the 90deg elbow that screws into the top of the turbo for the feed line? From the factory, there is teflon on the drain line going into the elbow, but NOT on the elbow going directly into the turbo.

Trying to have the car running by next Weds so I can take it to work and install some suspension parts, so the more stuff I need to order for the turbo, the bigger chance something won't make it in the mail and I won't be ready next week. BUT like I said I'd rather not take the turbo off again to do something that I missed initially.

Let me know what I need to do...

 

[vacuum 6]

Just pulled out the stock turbo. As much as I want to throw the new one in, I have a few questions first to make sure I don't have to go back and do anything later.

1) How many of you recommend the $15 copper gasket at the 3-bolt header flange? Is it really worth it or should I just make sure the flange surfaces are clean?

2) Should I replace my oxygen sensor while it's staring me in the face? Seems like it'll be a PITA considering it sits right after the turbo, don't want to pull out the threads if it's practically welded in there from the heat. Are Autozone sensors good enough or do I need to track down a GM sensor? Is there really any benefit to the "GNX" sensor?

3) I'm installing an aftermarket braided drain line. The factory drain line screws into an adapter block and then into the engine block. Does the aftermarket line screw into this adapter, or do I remove it and go directly into the engine?

4) Should I use teflon tape on the 90deg elbow that screws into the top of the turbo for the feed line? From the factory, there is teflon on the drain line going into the elbow, but NOT on the elbow going directly into the turbo.

Trying to have the car running by next Weds so I can take it to work and install some suspension parts, so the more stuff I need to order for the turbo, the bigger chance something won't make it in the mail and I won't be ready next week. BUT like I said I'd rather not take the turbo off again to do something that I missed initially.

Let me know what I need to do...

1) clean and yes install gasket
2) O2 sensor is easy to change with or w/o turbo. I like GM sensors.
3) goes right into the adapter. The adapter is a tee for the stock oil sending unit and feed line.
4) I do on top, dont remember on the bottom side

 

[BlackMetal]

3) I'm installing an aftermarket braided drain line. The factory drain line screws into an adapter block and then into the engine block. Does the aftermarket line screw into this adapter, or do I remove it and go directly into the engine?

3) goes right into the adapter. The adapter is a tee for the stock oil sending unit and feed line.

We must be talking about two different things. The turbo drain line goes nowhere near the T where the feed line is. I'm referring to this:

The OEM drain line goes into that copper colored adapter and then into the block. I thought I remembered reading that the aftermarket braided line just bypasses that copper adapter and goes into the block by itself, but I'm not 100% sure.

 

[BlackMetal]

Figured it out myself, it definitely doesn't fit into that adapter, have to get rid of it.

 

[ChavoLC2]

Drain line

1st take the bottom of drain line and screw/tighten that back into engine block like your pic shows. What made it easier re-connecting turbo oil drain line flange side of line is using studs on the bottom of turbo instead of bolts.(someone had posted that tip and it works) Reason for even bringing this up is if you are doing this by yourself it can be a PITA , kind of hard to line up flange to bottom of turbo hold them in place and start the bolts. This may not be a problem with your new aftermarket line if you have a little more length then the stocker .Seems like You need three hands sometimes. Last thing you wanna do is crossthread those bolts if they ain't quite lined up. Then loosely set the turbo on the copper gasket and the 3 bolts on header flange. Then hook up oil drain line you're able to line things up if they ain't tightened down . Gives you a little more lee-way, once mated tighten and torque nuts to factory spec. Used "teflon tape" on all connections top/bottom on return and drain lines and "anti-seize" on all bolts and studs. I don't use a gasket between downpipe and turbo outlet. I do heat cycle let turbo and downpipe/3 bolt header flange get hot and re-tighten bolts again seems like this gives you a leak proof seal/connection I've been lucky doin it this way. Been unlucky with the non copper gaskets even the nice ones from RJC end up blowing chunks of material out. Others have no problems what so ever with them . If I were to use a gasket there it would be copper....

AC Delco o2 sensors work well used to use Denso with leaded race gas they seemed to last a tad longer. Delco's cycle faster then Denso. You don't need a 'GNX" sensor

By the way Who makes the braided turbo oil lines? Good Luck gettin everything back together and leak free...

 

[BlackMetal]

ESP products is the only people I know making the braided lines, you can get them through Gbodyparts as well.

Guess I will hold off on installation until I can get a copper gasket. Everything else is going smoothly.

 

[BlackMetal]

Anyone know what size that big adapter is between the drain line and the engine block? The big adjustable wrench I have at home doesn't even open up big enough to fit on that.

 

[vacuum 6]

We must be talking about two different things. The turbo drain line goes nowhere near the T where the feed line is. I'm referring to this:

The OEM drain line goes into that copper colored adapter and then into the block. I thought I remembered reading that the aftermarket braided line just bypasses that copper adapter and goes into the block by itself, but I'm not 100% sure.

Yes sorry. Take the brass fitting off and screw into the block. BTW its a PITA.

 

[ChavoLC2]

PITA made easier

Well getting the drain pipe attached to block can be a pain wait till you get to the other end under the turbo. It can be a real pita also. The pipe is so stiff you try and line up bolt holes all the time fighting the stiff pipe and starting bolts without cross threading them. It can be a pain with 2 people .Salvage6's suggestion works great use STUDS all you do is line flange up over the studs and your done. Switching to studs sure made that part of the installation much much easier. Saw this great TIP on another post by Salvage6 and gave it a shot. Hang in there Chicago..you will get it done. Does your drain pipe look like this one?