A week or so back I posted a thread asking for help with pulling my cylinder heads for the first time. Someone (i think eric singer?) was kind enough to reply with a thorough step by step description of the process. But now the thread seems to have disappeared? I have searched for it a few different ways, but it has apparently vansihed. If whoever it was that had posted that response on the previous thread could re-send that information, I would be very grateful. Thanks for the help!
missing post? : cylinder head removal procedure
- Thread starter FlaBoy
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Hi Corey,
I’ll give it another try. You lose this one then its tough nuggies :tongue:
As Jerryl and I pointed out, there are two methods to do this. The method I’ve done is with the engine in the car, where as the other method involves pulling the engine. If you have a hoist and engine stand then I’d suggest pulling the engine. The main issue with doing the head replacement with the engine in the car is access to the rear of the passenger side head. There not a whole lot of room between the rear of the passenger side head and the firewall. One method that has been used with some success is unhooking the passenger side motor mount and tranny mount and tilting the engine to get better access. If you haven’t replaced the motor mounts it’s a good time to do it. I highly recommend the H&R poly motor mounts, but they are pricey.
Here’s the procedure I outlined, this is for an in car head replacement. Jerryl suggested you take pictures so you can remember how things can be put back together
1) Depressurize the fuel system. This can be done by unhooking the fuel pump connections that are between the rear bumper and the gas tank, then starting the car (or attempting to start it). Hook the electrical connections back up when done.
2) Disconnect the battery.
3) Drain the radiator.
4) While you’re at the radiator, go ahead and disconnect the top radiator hose. You don’t have to completely remove it, just remove the engine/intake side is all you really need.
5) Unbolt the downpipe and uppipe.from the turbo. Unbolt the uppipe from the header and set it aside.
6) Disconnect and remove the plastic L shaped pipe between the air filter assembly and throttlebody.
7) Remove all the vacuum lines going to the block on top of the throttlebody.
8) There are two bolts that hold the throttlebody to the turbo, remove them and the throttlebody will come free and you can move it away to get access to other stuff.
9) Go ahead and pull the vacuum tube from the PCV and set it aside.
10) Disconnect the vacuum lines from the wastegate.
11) Disconnect the vacuum line from the compressor side of the turbo.
12) There’s a bolt on the compressor side that holds the turbo in place, loosen it (No need to remove it).
13) Disconnect the oil feed line to that’s on top of the turbo.
14) On the exhaust side of the turbo, there are two bolts that hold the turbo to a bracket. Loosen them, there’s again no need to remove them.
15) With a little rocking back and forth of the turbo, it should now come completely off and you can set it aside.
16) You should be able to go around and pull all the plug wires now.
17) Loosen the bolt tensioning bolt on the alternator and take the belt off the pulley.
18) Take the bolt off the top of the alternator/accessory bracket the hold the arm.
19) Go ahead and unbolt the other side of the bracket support arm and set the arm aside.
20) While there unbolt the small black bracket that was with the support arm with bolt on the intake.
21) Loosen the A/C compressor tensioning bolt and remove the belt from the AC compressor.
22) There are two bolts that hold the alternator/AC bracket to the block remove them both and the accessory bracket will come free and you can move it out of the way.
23) There are two tubes running along the long black bracket that the exhaust side of the turbo was mounted to. Remove the two bolts that hold that on, however don’t try to remove the bracket yet.
24) Loosen the 4 clamps that are on the ends of the two tubes holding the rubber hoses. You’ll probably need to work the hoses loosen with a screwdriver to get them free from the tubes. Now you should be able to remove the long bracket with the two tubes and set it aside.
25) While on the passenger side of the engine. Reach around the back side of the intake. There’s a T with two vacuum lines running from it. Remove the T from the nipple on backside of the intake.
26) On each end of the fuel rail there are two lines, unbolt these lines and disconnect them. If you depressurized the fuel system there shouldn’t be fuel spraying all over the place.
27) In the front of the intake are fuel injector wire harnesses, disconnect them.
28) You should be able to now go around the intake and unbolt it from the heads.
29) With come prying action the intake to come complete off and you can set it aside.
30) Go ahead and remove the valve covers at this point, they just get in the way.
31) The coilpack and module are attached to a bracket, leave them on the bracket, but unbolt the bracket from the front of the engine and the driver side header bolt.
32) Now you’ll need to get under the car and unbolt and remove the crossover pipe.
33) Going between over the engine and under the engine you should be able to remove both headers.
34) Take off the rocker arms from the heads and set them aside.
35) Pull all the push rods.
36) Unbolt the heads.
37) Remove the heads.
I’ll give it another try. You lose this one then its tough nuggies :tongue:
As Jerryl and I pointed out, there are two methods to do this. The method I’ve done is with the engine in the car, where as the other method involves pulling the engine. If you have a hoist and engine stand then I’d suggest pulling the engine. The main issue with doing the head replacement with the engine in the car is access to the rear of the passenger side head. There not a whole lot of room between the rear of the passenger side head and the firewall. One method that has been used with some success is unhooking the passenger side motor mount and tranny mount and tilting the engine to get better access. If you haven’t replaced the motor mounts it’s a good time to do it. I highly recommend the H&R poly motor mounts, but they are pricey.
Here’s the procedure I outlined, this is for an in car head replacement. Jerryl suggested you take pictures so you can remember how things can be put back together
1) Depressurize the fuel system. This can be done by unhooking the fuel pump connections that are between the rear bumper and the gas tank, then starting the car (or attempting to start it). Hook the electrical connections back up when done.
2) Disconnect the battery.
3) Drain the radiator.
4) While you’re at the radiator, go ahead and disconnect the top radiator hose. You don’t have to completely remove it, just remove the engine/intake side is all you really need.
5) Unbolt the downpipe and uppipe.from the turbo. Unbolt the uppipe from the header and set it aside.
6) Disconnect and remove the plastic L shaped pipe between the air filter assembly and throttlebody.
7) Remove all the vacuum lines going to the block on top of the throttlebody.
8) There are two bolts that hold the throttlebody to the turbo, remove them and the throttlebody will come free and you can move it away to get access to other stuff.
9) Go ahead and pull the vacuum tube from the PCV and set it aside.
10) Disconnect the vacuum lines from the wastegate.
11) Disconnect the vacuum line from the compressor side of the turbo.
12) There’s a bolt on the compressor side that holds the turbo in place, loosen it (No need to remove it).
13) Disconnect the oil feed line to that’s on top of the turbo.
14) On the exhaust side of the turbo, there are two bolts that hold the turbo to a bracket. Loosen them, there’s again no need to remove them.
15) With a little rocking back and forth of the turbo, it should now come completely off and you can set it aside.
16) You should be able to go around and pull all the plug wires now.
17) Loosen the bolt tensioning bolt on the alternator and take the belt off the pulley.
18) Take the bolt off the top of the alternator/accessory bracket the hold the arm.
19) Go ahead and unbolt the other side of the bracket support arm and set the arm aside.
20) While there unbolt the small black bracket that was with the support arm with bolt on the intake.
21) Loosen the A/C compressor tensioning bolt and remove the belt from the AC compressor.
22) There are two bolts that hold the alternator/AC bracket to the block remove them both and the accessory bracket will come free and you can move it out of the way.
23) There are two tubes running along the long black bracket that the exhaust side of the turbo was mounted to. Remove the two bolts that hold that on, however don’t try to remove the bracket yet.
24) Loosen the 4 clamps that are on the ends of the two tubes holding the rubber hoses. You’ll probably need to work the hoses loosen with a screwdriver to get them free from the tubes. Now you should be able to remove the long bracket with the two tubes and set it aside.
25) While on the passenger side of the engine. Reach around the back side of the intake. There’s a T with two vacuum lines running from it. Remove the T from the nipple on backside of the intake.
26) On each end of the fuel rail there are two lines, unbolt these lines and disconnect them. If you depressurized the fuel system there shouldn’t be fuel spraying all over the place.
27) In the front of the intake are fuel injector wire harnesses, disconnect them.
28) You should be able to now go around the intake and unbolt it from the heads.
29) With come prying action the intake to come complete off and you can set it aside.
30) Go ahead and remove the valve covers at this point, they just get in the way.
31) The coilpack and module are attached to a bracket, leave them on the bracket, but unbolt the bracket from the front of the engine and the driver side header bolt.
32) Now you’ll need to get under the car and unbolt and remove the crossover pipe.
33) Going between over the engine and under the engine you should be able to remove both headers.
34) Take off the rocker arms from the heads and set them aside.
35) Pull all the push rods.
36) Unbolt the heads.
37) Remove the heads.
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
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WOW!
NICE work Eric!
I think you should copy/paste in the sticky!
NICE work Eric!
I think you should copy/paste in the sticky!
Thanks Jerryl. I'll leave the putting it all back together post to you 
Around step 27 should have been disconnect the temperature sensor.
With step 31 should have been disconnect the module from the wiring harness.
There are probably other things I over looked or missed.
I hope I’m not showing an embarrassing amount of knowledge at this
Around step 27 should have been disconnect the temperature sensor.
With step 31 should have been disconnect the module from the wiring harness.
There are probably other things I over looked or missed.
I hope I’m not showing an embarrassing amount of knowledge at this
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
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Thanks Jerryl. I'll leave the putting it all back together post to you
Funny!
We really are fortunate to have an active member like you on this board!
Oh, here you go .........without corrections ........
37) Remove the heads.
36) Unbolt the heads.
35) Pull all the push rods.
34) Take off the rocker arms from the heads and set them aside.
33) Going between over the engine and under the engine you should be able to remove both headers.
32) Now you’ll need to get under the car and unbolt and remove the crossover pipe.
31) The coilpack and module are attached to a bracket, leave them on the bracket, but unbolt the bracket from the front of the engine and the driver side header bolt.
30) Go ahead and remove the valve covers at this point, they just get in the way.
29) With come prying action the intake to come complete off and you can set it aside.
28) You should be able to now go around the intake and unbolt it from the heads.
27) In the front of the intake are fuel injector wire harnesses, disconnect them.
26) On each end of the fuel rail there are two lines, unbolt these lines and disconnect them. If you depressurized the fuel system there shouldn’t be fuel spraying all over the place.
25) While on the passenger side of the engine. Reach around the back side of the intake. There’s a T with two vacuum lines running from it. Remove the T from the nipple on backside of the intake.
24) Loosen the 4 clamps that are on the ends of the two tubes holding the rubber hoses. You’ll probably need to work the hoses loosen with a screwdriver to get them free from the tubes. Now you should be able to remove the long bracket with the two tubes and set it aside.
23) There are two tubes running along the long black bracket that the exhaust side of the turbo was mounted to. Remove the two bolts that hold that on, however don’t try to remove the bracket yet.
22) There are two bolts that hold the alternator/AC bracket to the block remove them both and the accessory bracket will come free and you can move it out of the way.
21) Loosen the A/C compressor tensioning bolt and remove the belt from the AC compressor.
20) While there unbolt the small black bracket that was with the support arm with bolt on the intake.
19) Go ahead and unbolt the other side of the bracket support arm and set the arm aside.
18) Take the bolt off the top of the alternator/accessory bracket the hold the arm.
17) Loosen the bolt tensioning bolt on the alternator and take the belt off the pulley.
16) You should be able to go around and pull all the plug wires now.
15) With a little rocking back and forth of the turbo, it should now come completely off and you can set it aside.
14) On the exhaust side of the turbo, there are two bolts that hold the turbo to a bracket. Loosen them, there’s again no need to remove them.
13) Disconnect the oil feed line to that’s on top of the turbo.
12) There’s a bolt on the compressor side that holds the turbo in place, loosen it (No need to remove it).
11) Disconnect the vacuum line from the compressor side of the turbo.
10) Disconnect the vacuum lines from the wastegate.
9) Go ahead and pull the vacuum tube from the PCV and set it aside.
8) There are two bolts that hold the throttlebody to the turbo, remove them and the throttlebody will come free and you can move it away to get access to other stuff.
7) Remove all the vacuum lines going to the block on top of the throttlebody.
6) Disconnect and remove the plastic L shaped pipe between the air filter assembly and throttlebody.
5) Unbolt the downpipe and uppipe.from the turbo. Unbolt the uppipe from the header and set it aside.
4) While you’re at the radiator, go ahead and disconnect the top radiator hose. You don’t have to completely remove it, just remove the engine/intake side is all you really need.
3) Drain the radiator.
2) Disconnect the battery.
1) Depressurize the fuel system. This can be done by unhooking the fuel pump connections that are between the rear bumper and the gas tank, then starting the car (or attempting to start it). Hook the electrical connections back up when done.
Thanks so much for the help... again 
When it comes time to replace the gaskets, I'm assuming its as simple as removing the old one, cleaning the mating surfaces, and putting on the new one? Also, whats the recommended torque for the head bolts? Any particular tightening sequence you guys suggest?
Thanks so much guys!
When it comes time to replace the gaskets, I'm assuming its as simple as removing the old one, cleaning the mating surfaces, and putting on the new one? Also, whats the recommended torque for the head bolts? Any particular tightening sequence you guys suggest?Thanks so much guys!
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
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What bolts are you using?
Stock bolts are not TTY, the 86/87 bolts are.
The keys to a succesful assembly are cleanliness and surface preperation.
Also, be sure to use a thread sealant on the headbolts!
Here is a good link for torque values and intake/head bolt sequence at the bottom of the page in the link.
The head bolts are for the 87, so don't follow those, untill you verify the values for the bolts you are using.
Bolt Torque Explained
Edit:
Here is some of what i do (even though you originally only asked about removal procedures
)-Make sure you clean the threads in the block, so you get the correct torque value.
-Clean the pistons and head chambers
-Lightly oil the heads of the bolts when you install them so you get the correct torque value.
-Verify the torque wrench calibration (if you can)
-Torque the bolts evenly in steps of 10 to 90% of final torque, and than in increments of 5
-Let it sit overnight and retorque the next day
-Put a light smear of silicone ("The right stuff") around the water jackets on the heads, and on the manifold side.
-Put some of the silicone under and above the rubber gasket, AND, in the corners by the head (A glob where the rubber gasket meets the corner under the head - Do this BEFORE you install the rubber seal!)
-Make SURE you grease the oil drain tube before you install, and replace the drain tube gasket
Anyway, some of the things I do when I assemble ......
novaderrik
Well-Known Member
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- May 12, 2004
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that's a lot of typing just to say to unbolt and unhook a bunch of stuff until you can get the heads out, then reverse everything when putting it back together- except you need a torque wrench for a few things as it goes back together.
on the night i got my 84, i got both of the heads off to replace the head gaskets and sitting on the floor in about 2 hours- which i thought was pretty good considering that i had never even so much as popped the hood on one of these cars until the day i got my car.
i think it took about 3 hours to put it back together. i've never worked on an intercooled car, but it can't be any worse than putting headers on a 94 Z/28...
on the night i got my 84, i got both of the heads off to replace the head gaskets and sitting on the floor in about 2 hours- which i thought was pretty good considering that i had never even so much as popped the hood on one of these cars until the day i got my car.
i think it took about 3 hours to put it back together. i've never worked on an intercooled car, but it can't be any worse than putting headers on a 94 Z/28...
Well, things have been kind of slow for me here at work so putting together a list wasn't that hard. The torque specs and patterns I haven't quite committed to memory yet, so I have to look them up like the most guys. I haven't made it a habit to pull the heads, so all I remember is working my way from the inter bolts to the outer bolts with a crisscross pattern and slowly building the torque up to whatever the specs are.
Jerryl
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Well, true, but, that is too easy!
If we weren't glutton for punishment and wanted "easy", we would have started with an IC'd car!
(Right Eric??)Hi Jerryl, I think the next head that I’m going to take off and replace is the one between my shoulders. My current project is replacing the weatherstripping along the driver and passenger side windows. Boy talk about fun! Times like these make me really wonder about owning an old car.
novaderrik
Well-Known Member
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what do you mean "old car"- i consider cars from the 80's to be late models...
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
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How is this going? 
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