Motor advise - noise and low oil pressure

[Buick Mark]

That looks like a cast roller cam, is it?
Why do you think the crank is junk?
How are the lifters?
Typically, no tensioner is used with a roller chain

 

[Justa6MB]

The face of the block where the cam rides looks perfect to me. The cam is one of those FTS Comp Cam Revolution X - 210/215 hydraulic roller cams. I took a quick measurement of the lobe lift and it matches the cam card. The crank to me doesn't look too bad, but there are some marks on it. And it was turned down once already, but I don't know how much. I'd say the marks on the crank are just a few thou. The lifters look totally fine to me. Good about the tensioner. So I'm curious if a failed turbo could introduce junk like this.

 

[larrym]

That's a ton of material to get into the pan. There would be a boat load of shaft play on the turbo.


Mobile larrym

 

[Lil Truck]

Have you checked the crank thrust bearing? The oil slinger looks like it has a wear mark where the hub seats?

 

[Lil Truck]

Why does the turbo oil return at the block appear to be blocked?

 

[Buick Mark]

Post a better pic of the crap that was in your oil pan.
To me (in those first pics)those chunks look to big to be bearing material, they actually look like pieces of iron from the cam but your cam looks fine.
YEARS ago there were massive failures of "budget roller cams" that left chunks of iron in the pan.

 

[Justa6MB]

I've just inspected the crank with the main caps off. I didn't measure the crank endplay again, and what would I be looking for to check the crank thrust bearing? The slinger appeared fine to me, there is a washer between the slinger and where the hub seats - again all looks good to the untrained eye. The turbo drain was just the picture, it is clean and clear. I can post a picture later of the material. I cleaned it out of the pan and the actual material may be less than what shows in the pan. Also it will not stick to a magnet. The other question is the thrust surface on the cam appears to be the same color. Is that a possibility? What was the material that the budget roller cams left in the pan? This material is mostly flaky.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Suggest you not use those soft washers on the cam bolts. They will not allow torque retention. Once you a chance, look at how far the under side of the bolt heads have eaten into the washers.

 

[larrym]

post a pic of the thrust surface on the main bearing.

 

[Justa6MB]

You're right Chuck, I noticed that when I pulled the cam gear bolts out. I can look closer at the washers tho. Also here is a picture of the goody bag. I'll take some more pics right away.

 

[Justa6MB]

Here are some more pictures. Also I thought this might be a better way to show the flakes.

 

[Raeban]

Have you finished pulling the rods yet? With that amount of trash in the pan I'm thinking that will be where the material is from.

 

[Jerryl]

Shot in the dark . . . . Valve guides?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Pull the oil pump apart.

 

[Justa6MB]

Oil pump has minor swirls in the housing which I oil sanded out. Rest of the pump appears to be fine. I haven't pulled the rods apart. What's the best way to safely do this? I pulled the rod bolts out of one but I couldn't pull it off by hand and didn't want to pry or tap it. I was looking at the heads last night too wondering... Are valve guides a brass color? The top of the heads were clean tho, a few really small pieces of something in the lifter gallery, but the rest of it is in the pan. I also put in valve spring shims which are copper or brass?? Haven't removed the valve springs but no signs of them coming apart - and the shape is wrong.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

My SWAG is that the con-rod small end bushings are walking out and getting torn up...

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[earlbrown]

I also put in valve spring shims which are copper or brass??.

Are these actual real life spring shims or shims that fit?

 

[Justa6MB]

They were real shims from Champion, I think they were .030" - or was it .060"? But they look to be intact. RBF that would also make sense as it seams like everything is in the pan! What's the best - safe way to knock the rod caps off?

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

The shims were likely a gold iridite finish over steel.

As for getting the caps off, some gentle persuasion with a small plastic mallet. Strike the cap on the side ends to break them loose. Can then usually wiggle them off with your hands. Don't go ape on them, just enough to persuade them to loosen up.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[earlbrown]

we use rod bolts not nuts. the cap should come right off when you take the bolts out. Just wiggle it a little and it should pop right off as soon as you bread the vicious seal.