Like I said the other day I've just installed houston down pipe. I was worried when installing because only had about 1/4 to 3/8 inch clearence to frame. Talk to John Percy today he said that I should have at least 1/2 inch clearence and if not I probably have collapsed motor mount(very nice guy). He said stock motor mounts were no longer available. Told me I could bend pipe slightly or install poly mounts but would have a lot of vibration. The question is are the stock mounts really unavailable (not douhting John) and if so should I install poly mounts or bend pipe or throw my stock down pipe back on? Car only has 18,000 miles and not planning on changing to much more just trying to tighten her up a little. Thanks Jicaju TTA 1243
Motor mounts for TTA?
- Thread starter Jicaju
- Start date
Your gonna not want to hear this..
Get that Big Hammer and clearance that bad boy. Mine still rides with the stock motor mounts at 31K miles. And I have a THDP that doesnt rub or hit anything. Matter of fact I cut mine so it would clear the subframe connectors.
No bend.. Hit it
No big deal..
Get that Big Hammer and clearance that bad boy. Mine still rides with the stock motor mounts at 31K miles. And I have a THDP that doesnt rub or hit anything. Matter of fact I cut mine so it would clear the subframe connectors.
No bend.. Hit it
No big deal..
Jan Larsson
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2001
You can get the stock motor mounts from NAPA, they only list the passanger side but the driver side is identical except for a small metal tab been cut off for clearance. Think they are like $20-29 each or so
Like I said the other day I've just installed houston down pipe. I was worried when installing because only had about 1/4 to 3/8 inch clearence to frame. Talk to John Percy today he said that I should have at least 1/2 inch clearence and if not I probably have collapsed motor mount(very nice guy). He said stock motor mounts were no longer available. Told me I could bend pipe slightly or install poly mounts but would have a lot of vibration. The question is are the stock mounts really unavailable (not douhting John) and if so should I install poly mounts or bend pipe or throw my stock down pipe back on? Car only has 18,000 miles and not planning on changing to much more just trying to tighten her up a little. Thanks Jicaju TTA 1243
I wouldn't worry to much about that amout of clearance, that dp ain't goin any where. If you are really worried about it, I would recommend markin thu area you think is too close and puttin it in a vise and just closin up a bit. As Jan said, you can still get the motor mounts and goin to the poly's is a good idea if yer not real picky about some miner vibration and road noise. The real advantage of thu poly's is thu motor don't move, all thu torque is transfered to thu rear end.
I wouldn't worry to much about that amout of clearance, that dp ain't goin any where. If you are really worried about it, I would recommend markin thu area you think is too close and puttin it in a vise and just closin up a bit. As Jan said, you can still get the motor mounts and goin to the poly's is a good idea if yer not real picky about some miner vibration and road noise. The real advantage of thu poly's is thu motor don't move, all thu torque is transfered to thu rear end.
87buick3825
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2004
Originally posted by Razor
Your gonna not want to hear this..
Get that Big Hammer and clearance that bad boy. Mine still rides with the stock motor mounts at 31K miles. And I have a THDP that doesnt rub or hit anything. Matter of fact I cut mine so it would clear the subframe connectors.
No bend.. Hit it
No big deal..
NO NO NO !!!! I was told they dropped right in !!!!!
Jicaju - I originally purchased a set a of napa motor mounts for my car but later went with the poly's, I can tell you the napa's look identical to the originals. If motor mounts sound like a big PITA you could always strap the motor down. I dont have one on my car but I'm pretty sure other guys on the board do. Its usually pretty cheap if you buy all the parts at the hardware store. This will keep your motor from rocking over during acceleration, and will do pretty much the same thing the poly mounts do.
HTH
HTH
Jan Larsson
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2001
Napa:
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/n...r=23496984&prmenbr=5806&usrcommgrpid=90827405
Get 2 and compare the driver side mount and there should be a slight difference in a metal tab (don't have the picture in front of me at the moment) but the mounts are identical except for a slight cut the factory did to clear something, you will notice once you have the original mount in your hand and can compare to the Napa one.
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/n...r=23496984&prmenbr=5806&usrcommgrpid=90827405
Get 2 and compare the driver side mount and there should be a slight difference in a metal tab (don't have the picture in front of me at the moment) but the mounts are identical except for a slight cut the factory did to clear something, you will notice once you have the original mount in your hand and can compare to the Napa one.
Jan Larsson
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2001
This is the thread concerning our right and left mounts and aftermarket options
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=111862&highlight=motor+mount
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=111862&highlight=motor+mount
Thanks for all your responses. Went to Napa today and got me two motor mounts(had them in stock $23.50 each). Figured long as I had her up I'd replace both of them. Thanks for the tip Jan I'll trim the drivers side. Then I'll mark the pipe, take the old 20 pound sledge and mash her till she bleeds(just kidding). Thought about the poly mounts but I don't plan on doing too much more as far as hop-ups(but only time can tell cause power is addictive ain't it). Ordered scanmaster, RJC power plate and MAF pipe to put my 8 inch K&N on. Once again thanks for all your help. Jicaju
Jan, you are absolutely correct about the sides being identical. I posted the dimensions about a year ago when a lot of people were going to spend a lot of money for nothing. both sides started out as the same part number THE ONLY DIFFERENCE WAS A "TAB" CUT OFF THE LEFT SIDE STOCK MOUNT TO CLEAR SOMETHING. There is no difference in durometer or anything else....... I have the original PAS prints to prove it . If anyone is in the Detroit area I would be happy to show them the prints for a "second opinion" Thanks Turbota.
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