Just bought a new GN.. The drive home was interesting to say the least... The converter was locked the whole time. Got the car home and figured to pull the tan/blk wire from the ECM. That did the trick. But if I plug it back in, with in 5 -15 minutes she starts locking up than remains locked until I either reset the ECM or keep the converter unplugged. I know for a fact the transmission solinoid is in working order so it's an electrical issue somewhere in the car. I'm at my wits end here!! Anyone ever experienced this before? If so please help me out. I don't wanna drive it unlocked all the time.
My torque converter gets stuck
- Thread starter WoT87
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
- Messages
- 1,055
If you are 100% sure it's electrical, then ohm test the wiring to the ecm. If no shorts or open in wires then ecm is most likely at fault.
mikestertwo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2006
- Messages
- 5,249
How do you know the solenoid is working properly? The fact that it takes 5-15 minutes before it acts up points towards the solenoid. Monitor the voltage on pin "F" of the ALDL connector to see if the solenoid is being pulled to ground.
haywire4130
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2010
- Messages
- 664
It takes 5-15 min for it to act up because (depending on chip) the ecm doesnt command lockup till the coolant temp reaches a certain temp (iirc stock is 150 degrees). Also, if your lockup solenoid is functioning correctly (probably isnt) it should unlock and rpms should go up if you tap the brakes enough to turn the brake lights on while at steady speed with the converter locked.
fastblackracing
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 1,022
In the op's case the torque converter can only lock in low [1st] gear if the Converter clutch valve gets stuck in its bore after being commanded to lock and then will not retreat to the unlock position due to binding up.....
There normally is no hydraulic pressure available to shift the converter clutch valve unless the trans is in 2,3 or 4th.
If the converter is staying locked in gears 2,3,4 the solenoid or its control wiring [ ground side ] is messed up.
Is the converter staying locked in first gear at stop signs?
There normally is no hydraulic pressure available to shift the converter clutch valve unless the trans is in 2,3 or 4th.
If the converter is staying locked in gears 2,3,4 the solenoid or its control wiring [ ground side ] is messed up.
Is the converter staying locked in first gear at stop signs?
I suck at electronics. So just test each wire with car in off position right? All wires should be closed? Should they be at a certain ohm?
fastblackracing
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 1,022
mmm no what?
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
- Messages
- 1,055
I think he was answering that it doesn't stall in 1st at stop lights.
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
- Messages
- 1,055
Actually since the car is new to you, I wonder if someone put a manual switch in to lock convertor for racing. Look under and around the shifter for a button that might have been added.
Na I tried asking the guy, he has no clue at all.
I mean I know when I put the aftermarket switch in the car will be great but not knowing what the problem was is going to kill me u know. I really wanna try and get this one. Not only for me but 4 this forum as well. I'm sure one day some poor shumuck will be in the same boat.
mikestertwo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2006
- Messages
- 5,249
Did you check the voltage on pin "F" of the ALDL connector?
Is pin F the scan master wire? I think yellow?? If so my scanmaster is working... What's it supposed to read?
mikestertwo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2006
- Messages
- 5,249
No, It's a tan wire with a black stripe. Measure between pin "F" and pin "A". Pin "F" is the lockup solenoid, pin "A" is ground. Pin "A" is the far right pin on the top row of the connector, Pin "F" is the far left pin on the top row of the ALDL connector. It should read around +12v when not locked, less than +1v when locked. If it is reading +12v and the converter is locked then most likely the solenoid is bad. If it always reads <1v then you have a short somewhere. If it reads +12v step on the brake pedal to make sure it goes to 0v. Check it with the key on...engine does not have to be running.
I'm going to check that thank you. I'll let you know.
mikestertwo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2006
- Messages
- 5,249
Make sure you have the electrical connector plugged in on the transmission when testing.
