Name that Cam

[lnkncontiverto]

I am not too familiar with the concept of swapping out a cam. Are there any how to's out there?

Also, I would like to pick up a performance cam for my 87; however, I am not sure what is going to fit my goals best. The car will primarially be for street, with the very occasional track visit. I intend on staying with a stock or slightly larger than stock turbo. I have 009's, adj FPR, and a walbro w/hotwire. Will probably add alky in the future. My goal is to be toward mid 11's on my DR's when everything is said and done.

If I upgrade the cam, would it also behoove me to add lifters, rockers, springs, etc? I am on a little bit of a budget for the time being, if there are any cost effective options you can think of.

Thanks for the help.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

I am not too familiar with the concept of swapping out a cam. Are there any how to's out there?

Also, I would like to pick up a performance cam for my 87; however, I am not sure what is going to fit my goals best. The car will primarially be for street, with the very occasional track visit. I intend on staying with a stock or slightly larger than stock turbo. I have 009's, adj FPR, and a walbro w/hotwire. Will probably add alky in the future. My goal is to be toward mid 11's on my DR's when everything is said and done.

If I upgrade the cam, would it also behoove me to add lifters, rockers, springs, etc? I am on a little bit of a budget for the time being, if there are any cost effective options you can think of.

Thanks for the help.

Yes, there's a method to the madness. To maximize the cam increased lift/duration, you'll want to get the heads done. If you do get a cam , go roller- less hassles in the long run.

Bottom line- you can used the stock setup for your stated goals. I'd add alky, an alky chip, 60s and learn to tune the thing. Low 12/high 11s. Add a bigger turbo- mid 11s.

 

[BlackBandit]

Stay with the stock cam and spend your money elsewhere. This should enable you to achieve your goals.

 

[lnkncontiverto]

Thanks for the advice gents. I recently blew a head gasket, and was considering doing some other work on it whilst I have the block out. I got power hungry.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Ok, you've added another factor; you're going to have the car apart for repair. Didn't know that....

Since you're going to be in there, you could buck up for the roller cam, and do it all in one shot- cam, roller rockers, heads ported, bigger valves, and springs.

To do the cam, you'll have to take apart the front of the engine, and remove the radiator/IC. It's pretty easy to do (but I've done it a bunch of times:biggrin: ).

On the other hand, you could do the heads, and call it good.

Do you run coolant or water only? Did any anti-freeze get into the crankcase when you popped your head gasket?

 

[lnkncontiverto]

I run coolant, but I think I am O.K. The oil seems fine. Besides sniffing for glycol or checking the color/consistency, is there any definitive way to know?

I was less than 1/2 mile from home when I blew, and it seems like only a small puff of smoke coming out the rear passenger side. I am hoping the water jacket wasn't affected.

As for the upgrades, I only have +/-$500 budget for this, so my pipe dream of champion irons will have to wait. That's why I asked about if I do the cam, will I have to make other upgrades as well.

 

[Grumpy]

$500 won't even buy the roller cam kit. LEAVE THE STOCK ONE ALONE. unless its wiped.. you can run mid 11s very easy with a stock motor .. keep it simple maybe throw a set of valve springs on if it already hasn't been done

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Short of the obvious milkshake, about the only way to check would be with an oil analysis. The problem is that anti-freeze eats bearing material, so if the oil's been contaminated, the bearings may be toast.

As far as cost- if you're doing the work yourself, it's not too expensive:
$100 for a head gasket set
$100 for springs
$60 for ARP hardware (studs or bolts- can't reuse the stock bolts)

And lots of patience and questions. If you can change brakes, you can do a head gasket IMO.

 

[lnkncontiverto]

I can change brakes!!!:biggrin:

I apologize for the sleu of questions, but I am a bit of a noob when it comes to cracking the heads off. Your answers are definately appreciated.

Now is replacing the springs a necessity when pulling the heads? If so, is there a specific spring tention that is best?

I am pretty confident that once I crack her open, I can manage with a little time and patience, I just want to make sure I do this right the first time.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

As Grumpy noted, valve springs should be done if they haven't been done already- they get weak over time, and can cost you HP.

Taking the top end off is pretty simple, provided you do a bit of work along the way. I always take detailed photos of vac lines/connectors/hoses before touching a wrench. Next, I'll use masking tape and a sharpie, and label each vac hose/connector/hose. Then drain the coolant, and get to work.

When you take off the intake/heads, look for the easiest way to remove things. Keep all nuts/bolts grouped together (labelled ziplocs work well).

Don't forget about the grounds at the back of the passenger head!

 

[lnkncontiverto]

I learned the value of proper documentation when I pulled apart my Lincoln. That was a blast.



Is there a stock valve spring vs. an upgrade worth using?