Need advise

[ryanv]

Its almost spring in Milwaukee and I've been thinking about doing some upgrades. I have a stock short block, 42lb injectors, 3" dp, fmic, scanmaster, exhaust, Adj. FP reg, 93 oct. chip, and running 17psi. I'm a street driver who wants to add some HP, I've had advise about getting a larger turbo (te44 or the 49), I've heard add alky, or run race gas. I probably put around 3-5k miles a year on it and would like to go to the track once or twice..... Whats the key to getting more power? Also, if I get a new turbo should get a new torque converter?

I'm thinking of running race gas to turn up the boost, what do you think? If numbers were a goal I'd say I'd like to hit the 11's and that would be great for me. I'm looking for a combination of reliability and power (I know...)

 

[we4Mateo]

Alky and pump gas will get you easily in the 11's with a good tune and a 44 or 49. You'll need an adjustable chip. A wideband makes it easy if you know how to adjust your fuel and know how to tune timing and AFR. 11 sec power needs good fuel pump and voltage, solid transmission, and sticky tires. If you just use race gas, you won't need the alky but with alky, you don't need race gas either at this point.

I'm a street driver too and I have a recipe car that is very reliable and 11sec fast. Research on here, but to answer your questions directly: Key to more power is more boost and timing, safely, and yes, a proper converter makes a 44 or 49 a BLAST on the street and good at the track too.

 

[ryanv]

I'm new at TB, what exactly does the wideband do? I know how to adjust the fuel, but not timing, is that from the chip? Do you think 42lb injectors, hotwire kit, and 340 fuel pump is ok? Thank

 

[SHADOWII]

Should be plenty for 11's. If you have a TT chip and a translator, you can adjust the fuel and timing easily. The wideband allows you to monitor the a/f ratio in real time and helps you to tune while avoiding the dreaded knock. A scan-master and power logger can really aid w/the tuning and logging of each run.
Your best bet is to take your time and read and ask questions until you understand how your car works. then you will be able to make good decisions on the power level you want. You will be surprised how much hp/tq these v-6's can produce w/a little knowledge.

 

[ryanv]

Do I just buy a maf translator and plug and play? How do you adjust timing with a tt chip.

 

[we4Mateo]

Do I just buy a maf translator and plug and play? How do you adjust timing with a tt chip.

You only need the translator if/when your stock MAF fails. With a TT chip, you can adjust WOT fuel and timing through the scanmaster. Instructions are with the chip and can also be found at: http://www.turbotweak.com/forum/

The wideband tells you were to adjust the fuel and the scanmaster tells you when knock is present and you need to add octane or reduce timing. Eventually it all falls into place and only requires fine tuning here and there. That's all part of the fun though; just don't blow it up trying to crank the boost. As mentioned already, learn how these cars control fuel and timing and get it to run right at low boost. Then start turning it up AND adding fuel if it's not rich already. Eric is a valuable resource as is his forum.

 

[ryanv]

I understand adjusting the fuel pressure but not the timing. I've owned the car less then a year and am already hooked, I've owned small blocks and can't say Im anything less than amazed at what these cars are capable of.

What is your thoughts of running race gas as apposed to alky?

Once the snow stops I will post scan master readings. Thanks for your help. For my goals should I be looking to purchase a turbo and stall? If so, what is my best option?

Thank you, best forum I've ever been a part of.

From the small block world I always kept a back up, I have a spare 3.8 and brf trans, I'm thinking of trading for parts instead of keeping them. Do you think that is wise?

You only need the translator if/when your stock MAF fails. With a TT chip, you can adjust WOT fuel and timing through the scanmaster. Instructions are with the chip and can also be found at: http://www.turbotweak.com/forum/

The wideband tells you were to adjust the fuel and the scanmaster tells you when knock is present and you need to add octane or reduce timing. Eventually it all falls into place and only requires fine tuning here and there. That's all part of the fun though; just don't blow it up trying to crank the boost. As mentioned already, learn how these cars control fuel and timing and get it to run right at low boost. Then start turning it up AND adding fuel if it's not rich already. Eric is a valuable resource as is his forum.

 

[turb0buick57]

I understand adjusting the fuel pressure but not the timing. I've owned the car less then a year and am already hooked, I've owned small blocks and can't say Im anything less than amazed at what these cars are capable of.

What is your thoughts of running race gas as apposed to alky?

Once the snow stops I will post scan master readings. Thanks for your help. For my goals should I be looking to purchase a turbo and stall? If so, what is my best option?

Thank you, best forum I've ever been a part of.

From the small block world I always kept a back up, I have a spare 3.8 and brf trans, I'm thinking of trading for parts instead of keeping them. Do you think that is wise?

From your post it looks like you are adjusting fuel pressure from the regulator? You didnt state what chip you were using but with TT chips, you set the fuel pressure at the regulator, and there is a procedure to add or subtract WOT fuel without touching the regulator. Also, you can add or subtract timing in the same manor. Basically before starting the car there is a set procedure to adjust your fuel and timing in the chip using the scanmaster and gas peddle. Once you do this procedure it is saved in the memory unless you erase it..disconnect the battery etc.
The directions will come with the chip and explain how to make WOT fuel and timing adjustments.

But those directions only matter if you have a turbo tweak chip.

 

[we4Mateo]

I understand adjusting the fuel pressure but not the timing. I've owned the car less then a year and am already hooked, I've owned small blocks and can't say Im anything less than amazed at what these cars are capable of.

What is your thoughts of running race gas as apposed to alky?

Once the snow stops I will post scan master readings. Thanks for your help. For my goals should I be looking to purchase a turbo and stall? If so, what is my best option?

Thank you, best forum I've ever been a part of.

From the small block world I always kept a back up, I have a spare 3.8 and brf trans, I'm thinking of trading for parts instead of keeping them. Do you think that is wise?

The fuel pressure gets left alone with a turbotweak chip. You add fuel by adjusting the chip using the scanmaster and thus keeping the injectors open longer at WOT to get more fuel. You need a wideband to accurately know what your AFR is though and how to adjust the chip. Doing it with fuel pressure is the old school way of adjusting fuel. With adjustable fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure is added at 1lb per psi of boost, so if base fuel pressure is high, than the pump needs to work even harder to keep up at WOT. IE: 43psi base + 20psi of boost equals 63psi of fuel pressure needed at WOT; WOT fuel pressure shouldf be checked to ensure your pump is up to snuff.

Timing is electronically controlled much like fuel at WOT. If the scanmaster shows knock, then you either don't have anough fuel or too much timing; adjust one thing at a time and retest. The turbotweak support forum is the easiest way to learn about these chips and get basic tuning skills. You'll want to start with version 5.6 or 5.7. Until you are comfortable doing that, I'd recommend you stay away from his speed density chips at this time; great chips but not for the faint of heart tuner.

Race gas works great, and some will argue, but race gas should support more boost and timing too. Problem is that it will foul out your narrowband and wideband O2 sensors, so alky is friendlier for a more street car and I run 25psi at the track no problem with alky. Problem with alky is you now have two fuel systems to monitor but you also have a backup fuel system if one starts to fall off. It's all preference and driving needs that determine if race gas or pump + alky is the way to go for you. Learn the search function and go to the alky subsection of this board. Julio is a moderator there and VERY helpful.

Post your goals and where/how you drive the car, and many will chime in with their turbo/stall recommendations. That's what's great about owning these cars now; everyone has been there done that, so learn from other's trials and tribulations. You know what they say about pioneers don't you?; they get arrows in their ass.

 

[ryanv]

I actually don't know what brand chip it is, I know it's a 93 oct,m42 lb injector chip. I'll buy a new tt chip soon. I first need to decide whether to run alky or race, I don't want to buy two this summer.

 

[we4Mateo]

I actually don't know what brand chip it is, I know it's a 93 oct,m42 lb injector chip. I'll buy a new tt chip soon. I first need to decide whether to run alky or race, I don't want to buy two this summer.

My .02, if you race more than you drive on the street, go race gas; it's simple and effective. If you street drive a lot though, then alky wins in my book. You don't need much meth to control knock and race gas is real expensive to burn on the street but alky only gets used when you are into it harder; much cheaper per mile with any moderate amount of street miles.

 

[SHADOWII]

There was an older alchy system on sale for a $120.00 earlier this week in the "parts for sale" section, that would probably serve your needs.
Remember to learn all you can before applying any mod's, changing h/g's is no fun. Not to mention becoming a member of the dreaded "DOTC" club.

 

[Mr.Spool]

ryan,razors single nozzle alky,5.7 tt chip,255/60/15 mt street radials,23-25psi of boost, wideband 02,and be prepared to upgrade the trans.after that 44/49 with a looser stall and a smaller diameter converter.