Need Help

[ravege]

I know these threads pop up so often, so I apologize for adding another one. I've done a lot of research, I think I've done the right things, but I'm still getting nowhere.

Two years ago I bought my car. It came with 60lb motron injectors, TT chip and adjustable fpr. The car was pig rich, but I was told TT chips tended to run rich. So for two years I ran like this, getting 12mpg.

I get a smog notice and install a smog chip for the 60lb injectors - I was looking forward to how the car would run. It was still pig rich and blew the test smog run out of the water - double the limits on every category. Huh.

The tech didn't want the adjustable fpr for the real test, fortunately I had the original fpr as well as the original injectors which I had sent to Chuck for cleaning. Add to those a new smog chip for stock injectors and fpr, new plugs and o2 sensor. I also put in a Racetronix injector harness I had never gotten around to installing. Still rich.

Finally, I bought an LT1 MAF and Translator - still rich, SM shows as low as 105 BLM.

So different chips, sets of injectors, injector wiring, FPRs, O2 sensor and new LT1 MAF - same pig rich. Fuel pressure gauge shows the rail holds pressure long after the engine shut off - no injector leakdown. What am I missing?

 

[Powder]

I know these threads pop up so often, so I apologize for adding another one. I've done a lot of research, I think I've done the right things, but I'm still getting nowhere.

Two years ago I bought my car. It came with 60lb motron injectors, TT chip and adjustable fpr. The car was pig rich, but I was told TT chips tended to run rich. So for two years I ran like this, getting 12mpg.

I get a smog notice and install a smog chip for the 60lb injectors - I was looking forward to how the car would run. It was still pig rich and blew the test smog run out of the water - double the limits on every category. Huh.

The tech didn't want the adjustable fpr for the real test, fortunately I had the original fpr as well as the original injectors which I had sent to Chuck for cleaning. Add to those a new smog chip for stock injectors and fpr, new plugs and o2 sensor. I also put in a Racetronix injector harness I had never gotten around to installing. Still rich.

Finally, I bought an LT1 MAF and Translator - still rich, SM shows as low as 105 BLM.

So different chips, sets of injectors, injector wiring, FPRs, O2 sensor and new LT1 MAF - same pig rich. Fuel pressure gauge shows the rail holds pressure long after the engine shut off - no injector leakdown. What am I missing?

Fuel,air, ignition. You've pretty well covered the "fuel" side so air, computer possibilities. Post your S/M readings so others may detect something. What's fuel pressure set at?

 

[scojack_2001]

Check for intake leaks and/or exhaust leaks. A 105 BLM means the computer is pulling alot of fuel out. Sounds to me like there is a vacuum leak somewhere. Check all the couplers, plenum, vac lines, everything. Check for cracked headers and improperly sealed crossover pipe.

When I went through emissions testing here in DE i always ran the car hard with the cat on it to get it nice and hot, and turned the FP down to 30-32 in the parking lot. Always went right through.

 

[GNONYX]

I don't understand how you are claiming it's running rich when your blm is 105, computer is pulling out fuel not adding.
Go to the search and type in "what causes low blm's" many possibility

Run engine until warm and post the ScanMaster results, also what is your fuel pressure with vacuum line on and off.

 

[earlbrown]

What is the rail gauge reading... and, most importantly, have you verified it's reading correctly.

I'm wondering if you have a kinked return line and/or a pressurized gas tank.

 

[Emiliano Lago]

if the blm's are below 128 it represents a correction for a rich condition

 

[ravege]

I'll get some more SM numbers in the morning. For the meantime, the regulator on it now is the stock 233 Bosch unit and it doesn't look "crushed". The gauge shows about 35-37ish at idle with vac line on.

GNONYX, my interpretation of the BLMs is that the ECM is detecting a rich condition and pulling fuel, hence the low values. If nothing else, that should indicate the o2 sensor is ok?

I'll take another look at vac lines, mine are a bit truncated as I've removed cruise and a/c.

 

[GNONYX]

Did you go to the search section and type in "what causes low blm's" ?

Before my last post to you I did go into the search section and found many possibility to your situation.

 

[TurboBuRick]

3" or 3.5" maf?

What are the settings in the translator box?

What chip?

Get bl # @ idle, @ cruise and during light acceleration.

Rick

 

[ravege]

SM numbers at hot idle, in D:
AF: 8
L8 56-61
Bat 13.9-14.1
Int 125-133
BL 108
Clt 176
Ats 88
tps .40
IAC 71
Pu 4.2-4.6
SP 2.4-2.5

In Park:
AF 7
L8 42-45
Int 124-134
BL 109
Clt 186 (Smog chip doesn't turn fan on until a certain level, guess this is why the temp climbed so fast after stopping)
Ats 100
tps .40
IAC 55
Pu 3.5-3.9
SP 24.7-26

Current chip is the Emissions chip for stock injectors and FPR. FP Gauge shows 35psi vac line on, 37psi vac line off (?!) 3" LT1 MAF, I figured the stock settings on the Translator would be fine - I found pretty much no change in engine feel when swapping from stock MAF to LT1/Translator. Runs kind of stumbly on roads, much smoother on highway.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Try setting base to 3.

Dip switches should be on on on off

Reset the chip and see where blm's land after warm up.

Rick

 

[ravege]

Update:
Cylinder compression is between 150-160 on all cylinders, most were 155.
Get 19" vac at the fpr.
Fuel pressure still too high.

With good vacuum and fuel psi only changing 2psi line on vs line off, I was thinking bad fpr. But:
1) I recall with my adjustable fpr, I could not get it below about 35 psi. I figured there was a minimum psi for the regulator, but now I'm thinking it may have been facing the same problem as the stock fpr.
2) My buddy has been saying from day one my fuel system was overpowering the stock lines. My fuel upgrades I believe to be bare minimum upgrades, just a little better than stock. With some systems I see people running on stock lines, no way my walbro and hotwire could be too much for the stock lines. As proof, I figured I'd bypass the hotwire at the bumper and verify the same fuel psi. Well, bypass the hotwire and fuel psi drops 2psi! Still too high for the sniffer.

Does anyone else get a drop in idle fuel psi by simply disengaging the hotwire?

Anyone else think this is a return line issue?

 

[salvageV6]

No when you have a major return issue they jump up a lot more than that.

35psi. is low for any chip to run normally so it isn't F.P. issue in my opinion.

I'd replace the O2 sensor as a relatively quick next test and readjust the IACV to lower than 50 at hot idle.

 

[Rustyregal]

I would get that iac to around 15-20. And the tps up a bit. My car responded with a much better idle. I don't remember how this translated over to blm's. Just my 2 cents. Sticky injector maybe?

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[huntsg]

I take it you don't have a WB? What is the NB reading? Have you looked at your plugs to see if they have been "flooded' with fuel? What is the chip set for as far as adding or pulling fuel? Have you used the chip parameters to pull fuel? I'd put the AFPR back on and set it for the correct base amount for the chip and then try to use the chip to get it running right...

 

[groumoutis]

You could also try getting the tps to .44 and see if the extra air will help lower the Rich condition. Between the TPS and the IAC they are both off a little so that may help a little. My car was at 118 and I adjusted the TPS and IAC to .44 and 25-30 and now my car is as 126.

 

[ravege]

OK, the frustration grows.

I adjusted the IAC til the spring on the screw is at max bind, and IAC came down to around low 50s. Are people removing this spring to get more adjustment? TPS is at .42.

No WB. NB O2 has been replaced, as have injectors, injector harness, fpr's, ecms, plugs, and MAF. Currently running (cleaned) stock injectors, stock fpr and smog chip for a stock setup. All still leave me way too rich for the sniffer. Disconnected Hotwire and fuel psi is sitting at ~32psi idle with vac on. BLMs are in the 10x range.

Changed the oil today, car responds really well to oil changes, but for the first time ever the car stalled on me without warning. No error code and car started back right up.

How does one check for a sticky injector? I did replace the stock harness with a racetronix unit. I'm not well versed on reading plugs, but they are new, and all look similar to one another - I assume a sticky injector would show a different looking plug than plugs on non-sticky cylinders.

I'm still thinking of a pinched return line, maybe only a slight kink, but enough to prevent the regulator to drop the rail to what it should be. I'd love to be wrong here, I'm guessing swapping lines isn't trivial.

Still looking for help

 

[Ttype6]

I'm still thinking of a pinched return line, maybe only a slight kink, but enough to prevent the regulator to drop the rail to what it should be. I'd love to be wrong here, I'm guessing swapping lines isn't trivial.

Still looking for help

Since you're able to get the pressure down to 35,your pressure isn't the problem. Put the regular 60 lbs chip in and see how it runs.
If you would have bought an Extender chip,you would have a greater amount of adjust ability.