need hep

[83 regal]

Any body know how to adjust the choke on 2 barrel 231. when cold wont stay running. or had this problem before.

 

[TURBOTWIN2]

Yes. Engine cold, throttle closed and NOT on fast idle cam step. Loosen (don't remove) 3 screws on choke thermostat housing so that you can twist the housing back and forth. There should be marks on the black phenolic cover with lines for different spot for Rich/Lean.
Since you're in Ohio, I would start on 1 line Rich or until the choke plate barely is closed. Twist the black housing until you've got the right spot. Tighten the screws. This procedure adjusts the CLOSING part of the choke operation.
Now, when the engine is cold, it needs be run a little rich to start. The choke adjusted as above will cut off most of the air. It still will need some air and that is where the choke pull-off comes into play. It's a vacuum diaphragm bolted the side of the carb very near the choke thermostat. When the engine starts, vacuum will cause the choke pull-off to OPEN the choke plate slightly, allowing the correct amount of air (hopefully) for a cold engine. If the vacuum hose is old, rotten or split, it won't function properly. It usually cracks open the choke plate about 1/8".
To "set" the choke on (like when you go in the morning to first start it up, you would step on the gas pedal once or twice all the way to the floor, let off and hit the key with your foot OFF the gas pedal. Properly adjusted, that baby should fire right up at a fast idle rpm of about 1500 or so. Let it run about 30 seconds to a minute, then TAP the gas pedal and the idle should fall off somewhat.
Common problems are mis-adjustment, vacuum hose/no vacuum to choke pull-off, bad choke thermostat, no 12 volts to choke thermostat to heat it up (and thereby fully open the choke plate when warmed up), gunked up, bent or disconnected choke linkage.
After engine is fully warm, choke plate should be fully open. Don't drive around with a closed choke, your mpg's will suffer and the rich running condition will wash down the cylinder walls. Why do think engines only used last 100,000 miles back int he old days? Poor fuel mixture control by the carburetor.
If you can't get it done, go find an independent garage. There'll be an old man in the back smoking a cigar. You'll think he's just some old worn out hack, but he's the one who'll know how to do it for you.:biggrin:

 

[83 regal]

okay thanks i'll try that.

 

[charlief1]

Yes. Engine cold, throttle closed and NOT on fast idle cam step. Loosen (don't remove) 3 screws on choke thermostat housing so that you can twist the housing back and forth. There should be marks on the black phenolic cover with lines for different spot for Rich/Lean.
Since you're in Ohio, I would start on 1 line Rich or until the choke plate barely is closed. Twist the black housing until you've got the right spot. Tighten the screws. This procedure adjusts the CLOSING part of the choke operation.
Now, when the engine is cold, it needs be run a little rich to start. The choke adjusted as above will cut off most of the air. It still will need some air and that is where the choke pull-off comes into play. It's a vacuum diaphragm bolted the side of the carb very near the choke thermostat. When the engine starts, vacuum will cause the choke pull-off to OPEN the choke plate slightly, allowing the correct amount of air (hopefully) for a cold engine. If the vacuum hose is old, rotten or split, it won't function properly. It usually cracks open the choke plate about 1/8".
To "set" the choke on (like when you go in the morning to first start it up, you would step on the gas pedal once or twice all the way to the floor, let off and hit the key with your foot OFF the gas pedal. Properly adjusted, that baby should fire right up at a fast idle rpm of about 1500 or so. Let it run about 30 seconds to a minute, then TAP the gas pedal and the idle should fall off somewhat.
Common problems are mis-adjustment, vacuum hose/no vacuum to choke pull-off, bad choke thermostat, no 12 volts to choke thermostat to heat it up (and thereby fully open the choke plate when warmed up), gunked up, bent or disconnected choke linkage.
After engine is fully warm, choke plate should be fully open. Don't drive around with a closed choke, your mpg's will suffer and the rich running condition will wash down the cylinder walls. Why do think engines only used last 100,000 miles back int he old days? Poor fuel mixture control by the carburetor.
If you can't get it done, go find an independent garage. There'll be an old man in the back smoking a cigar. You'll think he's just some old worn out hack, but he's the one who'll know how to do it for you.:biggrin:

Sounds like you're the old man.:biggrin: LOL If I hadn't been at work all day I would have told you pretty much the same thing.:smile: Thanks for beating me to it.:smile: