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SignUp Now!Almost the same build. See sig. for differences. What are your goals?Forged rotating assembly with with steel mains, 212/212 cam, gn1 alum. heads, ported intake, 80lb injectors, 62/65 turbo, and meth. inj!
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Can't see my sig. 218/218 cam, 60lbs injectors.Almost the same build. See sig. for differences. What are your goals?
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Same here.I am shooting for low 10s. power. I may go to track once in a blue moon but mainly a street car. With the right tune, I am hoping for a reliable set up.
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Same as you, maybe run a low 10 and keep it on the street most of the time. I'm not going to race it as I originally planned. Reliable low 10s street car. In 5 years or so, I may switch to a 3800 series 2 block and shoot for the 9s reliability.What about you?
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Same here. I think we spent the money because of selection. Would you rather put a stock crank, when you can get a forged one, why take a chance with rods that are nearly 30 years old. Well you can't reuse the stock pistons. If you're going to put a forged crank then while not go with billet mains. Since the motor is being rebuilt, do yourself a favor and convert it to a roller cam. Now that your bottom end can handle more power, well get some parts that will help in making that power like GN1 heads.Yeah you have the same ideas as me. I am not quite sure why I spend the money since it will probably sit in garage 99% of the time lol
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Agreed but only with the ability to dial it in safely. Spending all that money and still running a non speed density ecu with no safeguards doesn't make much sense. I'd rather roll the dice on a stock crank and rods with a good system and tune. I know if I had $5000 to spend and was forced to update the short block and didn't already have a good engine management I'd be better off with a stock crank and rods and spending the $$$ on the ecu.Same here. I think we spent the money because of selection. Would you rather put a stock crank, when you can get a forged one, why take a chance with rods that are nearly 30 years old. Well you can't reuse the stock pistons. If you're going to put a forged crank then while not go with billet mains. Since the motor is being rebuilt, do yourself a favor and convert it to a roller cam. Now that your bottom end can handle more power, well get some parts that will help in making that power like GN1 heads.
Then at the end I'm reminded that I spent all the money so I can safely handle about 150 to 200 more rwhp.
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After market ECU coming soon or before I roll the dice and try to max it out. Running it as safe as I can for the time being.Agreed but only with the ability to dial it in safely. Spending all that money and still running a non speed density ecu with no safeguards doesn't make much sense. I'd rather roll the dice on a stock crank and rods with a good system and tune. I know if I had $5000 to spend and was forced to update the short block and didn't already have a good engine management I'd be better off with a stock crank and rods and spending the $$$ on the ecu.
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Also Bison, the short block that was in my car was ruined, as were the crank and rods. So I couldn't reuse the parts and I figured why not just got for the forged setup RIght now I'm running a TT 5.7 street chip, max boost 18 psi I tried running alky with this just for saftey, dial set to 1 and as soon as I hit 10 PSI and the volt-booster kicks on the alky spray and perhaps the fuel is are too much because the car bogs down. So as of right now I don't go much about 10 psi, for the street that is all that I need.Agreed but only with the ability to dial it in safely. Spending all that money and still running a non speed density ecu with no safeguards doesn't make much sense. I'd rather roll the dice on a stock crank and rods with a good system and tune. I know if I had $5000 to spend and was forced to update the short block and didn't already have a good engine management I'd be better off with a stock crank and rods and spending the $$$ on the ecu.
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