new ebay headers
- Thread starter tom robison
- Start date
Mine did the same thing. Changed the motor mount and everything fell into place and fit real nice. You can actually jack the motor up on the passenger side just to verify that it's a sagging motor mount.
My THDP did not fit nor did the stock DP. Had to go with Gbody DP.
The drivers side piece of the crossover fit well between the flywheel cover and the oil pan, the passenger side piece of the crossover when almost installed into the passenger header put the other end of it under the flywheel cover, about 2" behind the other piece. But even if they would have lined up, it looked to be around an inch or so too short.
I'm surprised to hear that the THDP didn't fit with 'em.
I'm surprised to hear that the THDP didn't fit with 'em.
turbojimmy
Supporting Member
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Oof. My condolences.
Let me rephrase: When comparing the TA headers with the ebay headers the adage probably applies.
Jim
again here is what i went thru to get my headers to fit
The headers fit the heads and block great with no problems at all. the only problem that i ran into was the bottom bolt on the middle tube on the pass side header is entirely too close to the tubes. so a little bit of massaging with a hammer to clearance the tube and it fit using a 3/8 header bolt in that hole.
The cross over fits very good no modding there. The only problem that i have is there is a small leak where the cross over pipe slips together. but thats nothing a band clamp can't fix.
Now the THDP will fit bit you will need a hott wrench to heat up the pipe and dent in the side of the pipe to get it to clear the crossover. OR you can just get a 1/2 inch spacer to go between the turbo and the downpipe.
I just chose to clearance the DP since the pipe has had some other clearnace issues before that had to be pounding out
The headers fit the heads and block great with no problems at all. the only problem that i ran into was the bottom bolt on the middle tube on the pass side header is entirely too close to the tubes. so a little bit of massaging with a hammer to clearance the tube and it fit using a 3/8 header bolt in that hole.
The cross over fits very good no modding there. The only problem that i have is there is a small leak where the cross over pipe slips together. but thats nothing a band clamp can't fix.
Now the THDP will fit bit you will need a hott wrench to heat up the pipe and dent in the side of the pipe to get it to clear the crossover. OR you can just get a 1/2 inch spacer to go between the turbo and the downpipe.
I just chose to clearance the DP since the pipe has had some other clearnace issues before that had to be pounding out
Have pictures now
.....
I've been running my car a month or so with no problems so far. No track times yet. I replaced mine old stock ones because I was tired of welding them up. These are some of my issues for those thinking of buying a set.
1. Replace passenger side motor mount to lift the engine to the proper height to clear the passenger side control arm.
2. I had to shorten the stud on my turbo by flipping it around and grind the nut down for clearance.
3. Buy new Gbody DP. I have one of the original THDP but it didn't fit. It was time for some shine anyway..
4. Weld up the crossover at the slip joint. All lined up ok. Tried clamping but welding it is the right thing to do. I still can take it on and off.
5. I didn't use any gaskets, never have, except for the V bands joints. Slight leak without them. Still questionable if you need them or not. High heat silicon might have worked.
6. Center bolt on passenger side header was very hard to get too. Wrenched it on first then put the others in. I'm sure ATR's are the same.
So far no problems. Still need to make a few runs with high boost in it at the track to fully test them.
.....I've been running my car a month or so with no problems so far. No track times yet. I replaced mine old stock ones because I was tired of welding them up. These are some of my issues for those thinking of buying a set.
1. Replace passenger side motor mount to lift the engine to the proper height to clear the passenger side control arm.
2. I had to shorten the stud on my turbo by flipping it around and grind the nut down for clearance.
3. Buy new Gbody DP. I have one of the original THDP but it didn't fit. It was time for some shine anyway..
4. Weld up the crossover at the slip joint. All lined up ok. Tried clamping but welding it is the right thing to do. I still can take it on and off.
5. I didn't use any gaskets, never have, except for the V bands joints. Slight leak without them. Still questionable if you need them or not. High heat silicon might have worked.
6. Center bolt on passenger side header was very hard to get too. Wrenched it on first then put the others in. I'm sure ATR's are the same.
So far no problems. Still need to make a few runs with high boost in it at the track to fully test them.
Attachments
Have pictures now
I've been running my car a month or so with no problems so far. No track times yet. I replaced mine old stock ones because I was tired of welding them up. These are some of my issues for those thinking of buying a set.
1. Replace passenger side motor mount to lift the engine to the proper height to clear the passenger side control arm.
2. I had to shorten the stud on my turbo by flipping it around and grind the nut down for clearance.
3. Buy new Gbody DP. I have one of the original THDP but it didn't fit. It was time for some shine anyway..
4. Weld up the crossover at the slip joint. All lined up ok. Tried clamping but welding it is the right thing to do. I still can take it on and off.
5. I didn't use any gaskets, never have, except for the V bands joints. Slight leak without them. Still questionable if you need them or not. High heat silicon might have worked.
6. Center bolt on passenger side header was very hard to get too. Wrenched it on first then put the others in. I'm sure ATR's are the same.
So far no problems. Still need to make a few runs with high boost in it at the track to fully test them.
sounds like you went thru about as much as i did when installing them. except for me buying a new down pipe.
when installing the THDP i had to flaten out on side of the pipe where the curves down under the heater box. i had to do it some witht he stock headers so i just added a little more clearance to be on the safe side.
88ZNX
Let loose the Boost!!
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2004
I'm sure I have posted this before, but We bought the SSAutochrome brand off Ebay for $195!. While my engine was out for freshining up, I removed the ATR Headers and tried these. The flanges are thicker, welds look as good as the ATR's, the primary pipes are a tad larger and they moved my turbo a 1/4" back towards the TB. I had to install the adapter for the IAC motor because I run a 4" inlet. I did not have to with the ATR's. Next I had to clearance the head flanges to clear a few of the ARP Head studs. it took a few mins, but that issue was solved. They run fine with no leaks and problems in my 1988 Camaro ZNX. I had built a custom DP for the Camaro anyway, so they worked with the Ebay's and the ATR.
Sounds like it matters what brand you bought if you have trouble with them fitting or not. Even tho they come from Ebay, different vendors sell them. Jason has a set for his 87 Limited from Drift Pro's. We havent installed them yet, but we will let everyone know how they work. Andre bought SSAutoChromes for his T-Type too. He had to clearance some with his THDP but was not a big issue at all.
Somewhere on this thread I have a pic of them on my engine.
Alan
Sounds like it matters what brand you bought if you have trouble with them fitting or not. Even tho they come from Ebay, different vendors sell them. Jason has a set for his 87 Limited from Drift Pro's. We havent installed them yet, but we will let everyone know how they work. Andre bought SSAutoChromes for his T-Type too. He had to clearance some with his THDP but was not a big issue at all.
Somewhere on this thread I have a pic of them on my engine.
Alan
88ZNX
Let loose the Boost!!
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2004
Today Andre is installing the ebay headers on Jason's 87 gold T. the brand is from Drift Pros, and every thing is fitting so far, but the cross over pipe is not line'n up. It is hitting the passinger side upper control arm and the pipe is running under the flywheel instead of between the flywheel and oil pan. The crossover pipe is going to have to be modified to fit.
And the center bolt (header flange) on the passenger side is a @#$%^& to put on!!!!
And the center bolt (header flange) on the passenger side is a @#$%^& to put on!!!!
Today Andre is installing the ebay headers on Jason's 87 gold T. the brand is from Drift Pros, and every thing is fitting so far, but the cross over pipe is not line'n up. It is hitting the passinger side upper control arm and the pipe is running under the flywheel instead of between the flywheel and oil pan. The crossover pipe is going to have to be modified to fit.
And the center bolt (header flange) on the passenger side is a @#$%^& to put on!!!!
sounds like the pass side motor mount needs to be replaced. mine was doing the same thing and it was the motor mount.
put my JDM ebay headers on tongiht and the only prob i ran into is that the crossover is off by about 2" from lining up...gonna have a 1/2" cut out of it and re-welded should line up good then....bolted to heads easy and just got the one bolt from the bottom since the header tube block it...anyone have the crossover not come close to fitting???
INTERCOOLED
Member
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2002
For what it's worth:
I saw a set of these headers on a car tonight.......I was definitely NOT impressed.
I saw a set of these headers on a car tonight.......I was definitely NOT impressed.
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2005
same here.. mine fit pretty good.. no issues with the crossover.. and NO LEAKS !
88ZNX
Let loose the Boost!!
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2004
Well, We finally got them installed on Jason's 87 Limited. The V-band clamps and bolts supplied with them are Totally Junk. We will replace them with stronger, better ones and get Grade 8 bolts. So If you have these headers and havent installed them yet, PLEASE save yourself the headache and Replace the V-band clamps and get grade 8 bolts. I would also get some ATR crossover gaskets from SETurbo & Performance to be on the safe side and use them. The crossover tube had to be massaged slightly to clear the A-arm but just wouldnt seal with the headers even with making some gaskets. We had the slip joint welded. We did have to massage the THDP a little but nothing too severe. My motor mount was ok. While out on a test drive I did notice it killed some lower end power. (I am changing the torque converter here shortly so that will pick the low end power back up.) But I could DEFF tell the difference on the big end. feels like alot more MPH. The headers are quiet on drives and are worth it to me. IF they crack later on down the road, I'll gladly weld them up before I weld up another set of stockers. If they totally fall apart, then I'm out $300, blood, sweat, and tears. By then I will have saved up for TA's or whoever's. We all are testing a new product here. sometimes they work, sometimes they dont.
Alan, Andre, and Jason
A&A Performance.
Alan, Andre, and Jason
A&A Performance.
Under Pressure
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2004
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2005
do they sound good?
no complaints...
