New Engine - Pre oiling before startup question

[Jan Larsson]

So before I get the engine back together I just want to make sure I get it this procedure correct.

I will pack the oil pump properly, I also plan to build pressure using a drill with a oiler tool where the cam sensor sits.

Question, if I pack the oil pump when I put it all together on the engine stand without the cam sensor so I wont turn it by accident.

When installed in the car I use the drill to get fresh oil everywhere and turn the crank manualy slowly at the same time to get oil in all the oil holes and make sure I got oil all the way up to my rockers.

I then have to install the cam sensor to be able to start it, is there a chance I loose pressure if this takes time lets say 30 min before I actually crank the engine? Or should I crank it without the cam sensor in there and just watch the oil pressure?

Any thoughts / recommendations? Just want to make sure I do it right and if the engine sits I don't have any issues when starting it the first time when back in my TTA.

 

[chrisgarrett]

You will not loose oil pressure. Once you see oil coming out of the pushrods, the engine is primed and should not loose prime, assuming the oil filter has the correct anti-drainback baffle. I don't pack the pump with vaseline, I pour oil down one of the cooler hoses into the pump.

 

[gnxtc2]

If you want to take a further step....

-Assemble the whole engine leaving the valve covers and intake off.
-Leave the oil adapter off
-Install oil filter and dump 5-6 qts of oil into the valley
-Hook up the primimg tool and prime through the cam sensor hole
-Watch for oil to come out the pushrods/rockers. This will also tell if the oil hemmoriging around the lifters.
-If everything is good, drain the oil and install intake.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[Boost231]

that would work as well but no need to drain the oil unless you really want to.

 

[no-nos]

this is my little tip, normally once you start you car you have to re-torque the heads later, well the way my mechanic did it is , he torque'd everything down to the proper spec, then he applied the 2 heat guns so that the heat would travel thru the heads he left them on there and around 35 min. later he took them off and re-torqued everything again. saves time and your going to have to re-torque them any way.

 

[Blown&Injected]

Never re-torqued a head and never packed my pump with stuff - just oil the gears so they are not dry.

Never had a blown head gasket and never a pre-lube problem...well there was one time I forgot to tighten the oil filter

EDIT---> And to answer your question, yes, you will lose pressure but it is nothing to worry about, seconds after the pump stops the pressure will drop to 0. The point of the pre lube is to get oil to all areas as if the new engine had oil in it. Although the assembly lube will keep from a dry start, the oil will still take time to get picked-up and circulated to all areas of the engine. The pre-lube ensures that is done and that the oil system is working and not leaking.

That is why I like to feel the pump whirl empty for about 8 seconds and then bog down as it begins to pump oil...see the pressure on the gauge go up and hold as the drill goes...let the drill rest and move the engine a bit and then go back to the drill. Should take note of the feel in the drill and look for leaks.

All good? Then finger in #1, bring to TDC on compression - then move to proper ATDC position and drop in the Cam Sensor - or whatever your choice of Cam Sensor install procedure.