I dont think so. I have them on so that the bleeder is on the TOP of the caliper, and the brake line is in the BOTTOM. Does this sound right? If they were on the other way it would have the bleeder on the BOTTOM and the brake line on the TOP.
New EVERYTHING. Brakes STILL soft!
- Thread starter SPOT MY 6
- Start date
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I would have liked to see R/R L/F L/R R/F but that is okay. If you have calipers where bleeders are on top you are fine. Have you pulled drums are wheel cylinders dry, pull back the rubber boots on the cylinders and make sure it is not leaking internally. Get back to me on that.
I would think, on a vac system that is bled good and all clearences adjusted up (Shoes etc.) as you have stated, with the car off that the peddle would be really hard and have very little travel. 2 inches of travel seems like alot in that situation. Was the 2 inches of travel you get an easy travel or do you have to use both feet and all your mite to get the 2 inches? When you did the conversion did you swap the brake peddle assembly aswell?
You could also try blocking off the circuits one at a time at the master cylinder with the plugs you got in the kit and see if the travel changes with car off. Then plug them both and see how the peddle feels with car off.
Something is amiss.
c]Was the 2 inches of travel you get an easy travel or do you have to use both feet and all your mite to get the 2 inches? When you did the conversion did you swap the brake peddle assembly aswell?[/B][/QUOTE]
Yes, I had to use both feet and all my mite to get it that far. With moderate pressure, the pedal would only move about an inch.
And yes, I replaced the pedal from the same car I got the vacuum brakes off of.
Yes, I had to use both feet and all my mite to get it that far. With moderate pressure, the pedal would only move about an inch.
And yes, I replaced the pedal from the same car I got the vacuum brakes off of.
Thats an idea. I first want to inspect the rear wheel cylinders before I do anything. I will post back this afternoon.
Matt Weiser
It's an F.U.V.
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2001
- Messages
- 491
Boy, you've sure been through a lot with this mess! I'm starting to wonder about your booster. I'm not sure how a bad booster alone could cause your pedal to go flat, but it's worth a look. I forget, did it come of the junked Monte or did you get a new one?
You say you had a nice firm pedal, then you started the car and the pedal went flat. What happened after you turned the engine off? Did the pedal go firm again or did it stay soft?
Here's something to try. With the engine off and all the wheels off the ground, have somebody hold down the brake pedal and then go around and try to spin each wheel. They shouldn't budge. Then, start the engine and do the same thing. Can you spin any of the wheels? If so, which ones? This may help you find out where the problem lies in the braking circuit.
You say you had a nice firm pedal, then you started the car and the pedal went flat. What happened after you turned the engine off? Did the pedal go firm again or did it stay soft?
Here's something to try. With the engine off and all the wheels off the ground, have somebody hold down the brake pedal and then go around and try to spin each wheel. They shouldn't budge. Then, start the engine and do the same thing. Can you spin any of the wheels? If so, which ones? This may help you find out where the problem lies in the braking circuit.
gmgearhead
Member
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- Mar 31, 2003
- Messages
- 70
brakes
hello,i would also try lifting the wheels off the ground with engine off and try to see if the hold and then try with engine running.
You do need to change brake pedal assy. with conversion as they are different.I have a spare pedal assy with brake switch if you need it as my car already had it and i wasn't sure.
Do you have the right torque converter in your car?If you have a regular 2004r d7 conv. you will not hold any boost or get any stall because it is too tight.You need a d5 which is stock and stalls about 2800 and you can hold about 5-7lbs boost.
I ran into this before
hello,i would also try lifting the wheels off the ground with engine off and try to see if the hold and then try with engine running.
You do need to change brake pedal assy. with conversion as they are different.I have a spare pedal assy with brake switch if you need it as my car already had it and i wasn't sure.
Do you have the right torque converter in your car?If you have a regular 2004r d7 conv. you will not hold any boost or get any stall because it is too tight.You need a d5 which is stock and stalls about 2800 and you can hold about 5-7lbs boost.
I ran into this before
No I have not fixed this yet. My car is down right now with transmission problems. It will probably sit for a while before I mess with the brakes anymore. I will definitly post back to this exact thread when my problem is resolved. Lets just say this SUCKS (but at least everything is new!).
I have close to the same problem and after buying a new(Not rebuilt) master cylinder it still went half way to the floor
This is the part that got me
I can have a friend in the car with the engine off and standing on the brakes they are hard and wont bleed down. You fire the car up and stand on the pedal then take the lid off the reservoir and watch the fluid bypass back into the resivorI know with vacum it makes more presure but still??? I have no proportioning valve and loose no fluid The only difference is yours goes to the floor and mine bypasses the rears until the pedal stops solid on the fronts so it wont go to the floor. It really screws up my reation time I can have the car on jack stands lean on the converter with my foot on the brake and as the pedal bleeds down the rear brakes release because its internally bypasssing the presure to the rear brakes
I know it is because you can watch the fluid returning into the reservoir 
Ive just calked it up to the vacum assit makes enough presure to bypass the rear portion of the master cylinder.. I checked a friends car and pumped the brakes until i used up the vacum and the brake pedal went hard. Then i stood on the brake and as soon as it fired and got vacum the pedal slowly went down like mine...
This is the part that got me I can have a friend in the car with the engine off and standing on the brakes they are hard and wont bleed down. You fire the car up and stand on the pedal then take the lid off the reservoir and watch the fluid bypass back into the resivorI know with vacum it makes more presure but still??? I have no proportioning valve and loose no fluid The only difference is yours goes to the floor and mine bypasses the rears until the pedal stops solid on the fronts so it wont go to the floor. It really screws up my reation time I can have the car on jack stands lean on the converter with my foot on the brake and as the pedal bleeds down the rear brakes release because its internally bypasssing the presure to the rear brakes I know it is because you can watch the fluid returning into the reservoir Ive just calked it up to the vacum assit makes enough presure to bypass the rear portion of the master cylinder.. I checked a friends car and pumped the brakes until i used up the vacum and the brake pedal went hard. Then i stood on the brake and as soon as it fired and got vacum the pedal slowly went down like mine...EXACT same thing happens to me. Hard as a ROCK when the car is off. If I hold my foot on the brake while I fire it up, the pedal pushes all the way down. I still havent tried to fix this yet, but read your post and that is EXACTLY what happens. Make sure you post here if you find a solution geno. I will too.
Low Budget
Member
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- Apr 10, 2002
- Messages
- 404
SPOT MY 6 said:
Well what the heck happened here???
I read all the way through and it's like a book with the last page missing!!
turbo39151
anycoloraslongasitsblack
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2002
- Messages
- 4,460
This is probably going to sound stupid but it helped fix my problem...
A few months ago I switched to Red Regal T's Vacuum system. I even added SS lines and the brakes were still soft. I took the car to a local shop and had them use a vacula suction system to ensure no air in the system and they even added HD brake fluid. Still I had soft brakes and no one could explain it. (ie: no leaks, no air, new lines, new fluid, good MC etc.)
I finally went to another shop that discovered some slight wear on the rear adjustment stars which caused them to not hold the adjustment after a few uses. After they were replaced, the brakes are fine...
I still don't know how exactly that fixed a soft pedal but it worked so, I figured I'd throw it out there...
Good Luck.
A few months ago I switched to Red Regal T's Vacuum system. I even added SS lines and the brakes were still soft. I took the car to a local shop and had them use a vacula suction system to ensure no air in the system and they even added HD brake fluid. Still I had soft brakes and no one could explain it. (ie: no leaks, no air, new lines, new fluid, good MC etc.)
I finally went to another shop that discovered some slight wear on the rear adjustment stars which caused them to not hold the adjustment after a few uses. After they were replaced, the brakes are fine...
I still don't know how exactly that fixed a soft pedal but it worked so, I figured I'd throw it out there...
Good Luck.
