New member, first time poster, longtime GN owner.....could use a little help

[zapp240]

Also, about your plug wires, with the meter being on the 20K ohm range, those readings are in k ohms. with the wires being different lengths you will see a discrepancy in there values. Take the total wire length and divide by twelve. multiply that value by each reading and those are the readings you want to see being within 10%, hope that helps.

 

[Bob K]

Are these the plug wires that are recommended? http://www.ebay.com/itm/131743057950?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Bob K]

Also, about your plug wires, with the meter being on the 20K ohm range, those readings are in k ohms. with the wires being different lengths you will see a discrepancy in there values. Take the total wire length and divide by twelve. multiply that value by each reading and those are the readings you want to see being within 10%, hope that helps.

K meaning thousand right??

 

[GNRick]

I thought I was good to go with TPS at the current setting. I thought it was supposed to be between .36 - .44 at idle and between 4.5 - 4.9 at WOT. Am I wrong, or is it just better at .42 and 4.6 ? As far as the wires go, I'll just have to replace them. MSD 8.5's is what I'll get.

Steve Wood's Vortex Buick site explains it all

 

[zapp240]

K meaning thousand right??

correct , K (kilo), 1000.

 

[Coelacanth]

Are you kidding me???
In ZERO ways the GN was built to run on leaded gas..... Can it benefit from higher octane? Depends on how much carbon build up it has and how much it raised compression

If your car requires lead, are you adding lead supplements and changing your 02 sensors every 25 miles :lol:

Dude, you're totally missing the point. The cars were made 3 decades ago to consume gas from 3 decades ago. Lead was added to gas to reduce knock, increase octane rating and reduce wear & tear on the valve seats. If you now remove that lead, how do you think that will affect the car's performance and engine wear? Research it.

Nowadays, gas is very different with all the additives and cleaning agents and higher octane. To expect the cars in their mostly original form to perform the same way they did back then, but using this very different fuel, is foolish. There are lots of mods that could & should be done to get a 3-decades-old car to work properly, not the least of which are a modern chip & translator programmed for a specific octane rating and replacing the missing protective qualities of the lead with a zinc additive for the oil.

 

[zapp240]

Dude, you're totally missing the point. The cars were made 3 decades ago to consume gas from 3 decades ago. Lead was added to gas to reduce knock, increase octane rating and reduce wear & tear on the valve seats. If you now remove that lead, how do you think that will affect the car's performance and engine wear? Research it.

Nowadays, gas is very different with all the additives and cleaning agents and higher octane. To expect the cars in their mostly original form to perform the same way they did back then, but using this very different fuel, is foolish. There are lots of mods that could & should be done to get a 3-decades-old car to work properly, not the least of which are a modern chip & translator programmed for a specific octane rating and replacing the missing protective qualities of the lead with a zinc additive for the oil.

?????? lol, unleaded was the gas of the late 80's and 90's, using premium unleaded was the recommended fuel for the car. Also the zinc additives for oil is due to the fact they removed it from modern day oils. lets not get to far off track here for the OP.

 

[John Larkin]

The fuel gauge says unleaded fuel only right on it. So does the license plate holder over the gas cap. Leaded fuel was not recommended for these cars originally. Just the way it is.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Dude, you're totally missing the point. The cars were made 3 decades ago to consume gas from 3 decades ago. Lead was added to gas to reduce knock, increase octane rating and reduce wear & tear on the valve seats. If you now remove that lead, how do you think that will affect the car's performance and engine wear? Research it.

Nowadays, gas is very different with all the additives and cleaning agents and higher octane. To expect the cars in their mostly original form to perform the same way they did back then, but using this very different fuel, is foolish. There are lots of mods that could & should be done to get a 3-decades-old car to work properly, not the least of which are a modern chip & translator programmed for a specific octane rating and replacing the missing protective qualities of the lead with a zinc additive for the oil.

I will help you out in any questions you have, please do not spread your knowledge or lack there of on such topics I know all about 60s cars that were BUILT to run on leaded fuel, once it was established that it caused cancer, there was a crisis 1974. Maybe you should read and comprehend what leaded fuel was, why we stopped it, what we had to do to get around it and stop lying to us why these cars were built to run on gas with lead

You would know this first hand if you used a LEADED gasoline nozzle to fill your car.
My Pontiacs built to run on leaded fuel 10.75.1 with a carb

Go back to your magazines

 

[GNRick]

?????? lol, unleaded was the gas of the late 80's and 90's, using premium unleaded was the recommended fuel for the car. Also the zinc additives for oil is due to the fact they removed it from modern day oils. lets not get to far off track here for the OP.

I thought the zinc is to make the headlights brighter....or was it to speed up the power windows? Can somebody help me out here?

 

[Bob K]

Another update: I got the MSD plug wires and installed them. I haven't replaced any hoses or vacuum lines yet because I wanted to get a baseline of how the car is currently running. I got the Bluetooth ALDL adapter, ALDLdroid app and logged the data on my phone. I'm attaching 3 files from three runs from zero to about 60MPH. Lots of tire spin. Based on these files, is there anything out of place that needs to be addressed immediately?

 

[John Larkin]

BLMs are pegged to the max of 150. That is the computer adding as much fuel as possible. Therefore the car is running lean. First thing to check is the fuel pressure - what is your base fuel pressure and does it rise with boost level 1:1? A bad vacuum line to the regulator could be the problem, could be the O2 sensor not sending correct information, could be the fuel pump or regulator itself, might also be a major vacuum leak somewhere else, even PCV valve, possibly cracked driver side header which is common. Secondly I never see your MAF peak to 255. Were you flooring the car completely when you made the run?

 

[zapp240]

Bob, did you ever get the fuel filter replaced?