New member, first time poster, longtime GN owner.....could use a little help

[Ross L]

Who said I wasn't data logging? Zero KR

 

[Coelacanth]

Fair enough...I was referring to the O.P. though. A bad MAF can most definitely cause the driveability problems he described. Of course a stock replacement might work, but I see the MAF, intake, chip & translator as a complete system...and as I recently upgraded that system myself, I can say that it made a BIG difference and really woke up my otherwise bone-stock GN.

 

[Bob K]

A little update:
I got the old fuel out and put in fresh fuel, but it did not make much of a difference. I went to www.gnttype.org to see what kind of info I could gather there. First I looked at the TPS and got readings of .48 at idle and 4.14 at WOT. I re-adjusted and now have readings of .42 and 4.03 . Still didn't make a difference. The site said to use AC-CR43TS spark plugs @ .035 gap, so I picked up some plugs and decided to check the resistance of the plug wire and coil when I changed the plugs. Holy moly were the old plugs fouled. They Autolite AP25 platinum plugs @ .035 gap. I installed the new plugs and did the resistance checking with my voltmeter set at 20K ohms. Pics of the results are below. I then took the car out for a spin and whoa, what a difference. The car came back to life and the "Service engine soon" light went out. Happy camper here. While I was at the parts store, I was going to get a fuel filter and PCV valve, but the fuel filter they had wasn't the AC #GF481. I think they said it must be an old part number. They also didn't have the PCV valve #CV893C. Can anyone confirm the correct part number for me?

The gnttype states that the resistance across the coils should be between 11K and 13K ohms, which it is.
The website states that the wires should be within 10% of each other when measured in ohms per foot. I don't know how to do this. I just checked total resistance of each wire and the results and locations are posted above. Do you think I need new wires? If so, what would be recommended?

 

[Coelacanth]

I think you might want to readjust the TPS for a WOT reading of at least 4.35 or so. 4.03 seems too low. I was able to set mine to about .43 - .45 @ idle and about 4.55 at WOT. I recently replaced both my PCV valve and fuel filter this season, my local parts warehouse store had both items at inexpensive prices. I just asked them for the relevant parts for my year/make/model and they got it right...I trust them because they've rarely been wrong for me in the past.

 

[TurboBuRick]

There's the problem. Platinum plugs do not work well in turbo Buick's.

 

[ITSAV6]

Talking about the original maf, mine lasted 6 years, replaced with a GM one. It was still working when I replaced it with the LS maf and Translator. And yes it runs a lot better.

 

[Gary Durden]

New part number-AC fuel filter #GF652 and the PCV valve part number you have listed is correct. Check with the vendor Highway Stars for the parts as they have both listed or Amazon.

 

[Bob K]

Thanks for confirming the part numbers Gary.
Coelacanth, tell me more about the ALDL adapter. What did it cost and where do you get it? Is it easy to use/ hook up? Did you get the app from Google play store? Cost?

 

[Coelacanth]

Bob, www.1320electronics.com makes the ALDL Bluetooth adapter; you can buy it at their eBay store for $75 USD:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/12-Pin-ALDL-OBD1-Bluetooth-Code-Reader-Scanner-Adapter-/272388698454

You then buy the ALDLdroid app for $19.99 on Google Play, and install it on any Android device. I have it working on both my ancient Samsung S cellphone and brand new Samsung Galaxy S2 tablet. Once the app is installed, you need to obtain the ADX file and put it in the ADX folder on the Android device, then it will recognize the data stream from the ALDL port. 1320electronics will email you the ADX file, they just need to know what make/model of car you have. You plug the ALDL Bluetooth adapter into the car's ALDL port (just under the dash by your right knee), plug it into the cigarette lighter (I wired mine directly into the ignition-on wire) and launch ALDLdroid on your Android device.

I found this YouTube tutorial helpful:

Go in the ALDLdroid menu to pair the Android device with the ALDL adapter via Bluetooth, then go in the ALDLdroid menu to "Connect to ECU". You can then use the menu to "Start Logging" and "Stop Logging", then "Manage Data Logs" to email yourself the data log file, in CSV format. All this for under $100 USD, not including your Android phone/tablet.

 

[Bob K]

Double post

 

[Bob K]

Thank you, I think I will try it. Meanwhile, I'm going to start changing hoses and vacuum lines and stuff. I appreciate the help and guidance from all of you.

 

[Coelacanth]

Thank you, I think I will try it.

If you need any help, PM me when you have those items and I'll help you get set up. It's actually quite easy...it probably took me longer to type that reply than it did to setup the Bluetooth adapter and app.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

I agree with Robert. The translator and appropriate chip will help the car's performance running on modern unleaded gas. Our cars were built to run on leaded gas from several decades ago, not today's gas.

Are you kidding me???
In ZERO ways the GN was built to run on leaded gas..... Can it benefit from higher octane? Depends on how much carbon build up it has and how much it raised compression

If your car requires lead, are you adding lead supplements and changing your 02 sensors every 25 miles :lol:

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

A little update:
I got the old fuel out and put in fresh fuel, but it did not make much of a difference. I went to www.gnttype.org to see what kind of info I could gather there. First I looked at the TPS and got readings of .48 at idle and 4.14 at WOT. I re-adjusted and now have readings of .42 and 4.03 . Still didn't make a difference. The site said to use AC-CR43TS spark plugs @ .035 gap, so I picked up some plugs and decided to check the resistance of the plug wire and coil when I changed the plugs. Holy moly were the old plugs fouled. They Autolite AP25 platinum plugs @ .035 gap. I installed the new plugs and did the resistance checking with my voltmeter set at 20K ohms. Pics of the results are below. I then took the car out for a spin and whoa, what a difference. The car came back to life and the "Service engine soon" light went out. Happy camper here. While I was at the parts store, I was going to get a fuel filter and PCV valve, but the fuel filter they had wasn't the AC #GF481. I think they said it must be an old part number. They also didn't have the PCV valve #CV893C. Can anyone confirm the correct part number for me?
View attachment 289890 View attachment 289891 View attachment 289892

The gnttype states that the resistance across the coils should be between 11K and 13K ohms, which it is.
The website states that the wires should be within 10% of each other when measured in ohms per foot. I don't know how to do this. I just checked total resistance of each wire and the results and locations are posted above. Do you think I need new wires? If so, what would be recommended?

You should run NGK UR5 plugs. Why are you getting info from Gnttype,? A lot of that info was printed since 1994 and is outdated

To measure the wire, ohm it out, if they are used wires I am sure they are high in resistance. Get some msd 8.5 black. They have the least resistance

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

A little update:
I got the old fuel out and put in fresh fuel, but it did not make much of a difference. I went to www.gnttype.org to see what kind of info I could gather there. First I looked at the TPS and got readings of .48 at idle and 4.14 at WOT. I re-adjusted and now have readings of .42 and 4.03 . Still didn't make a difference. The site said to use AC-CR43TS spark plugs @ .035 gap, so I picked up some plugs and decided to check the resistance of the plug wire and coil when I changed the plugs. Holy moly were the old plugs fouled. They Autolite AP25 platinum plugs @ .035 gap. I installed the new plugs and did the resistance checking with my voltmeter set at 20K ohms. Pics of the results are below. I then took the car out for a spin and whoa, what a difference. The car came back to life and the "Service engine soon" light went out. Happy camper here. While I was at the parts store, I was going to get a fuel filter and PCV valve, but the fuel filter they had wasn't the AC #GF481. I think they said it must be an old part number. They also didn't have the PCV valve #CV893C. Can anyone confirm the correct part number for me?
View attachment 289890 View attachment 289891 View attachment 289892

The gnttype states that the resistance across the coils should be between 11K and 13K ohms, which it is.
The website states that the wires should be within 10% of each other when measured in ohms per foot. I don't know how to do this. I just checked total resistance of each wire and the results and locations are posted above. Do you think I need new wires? If so, what would be recommended?

I just happen to have 19 FEET of msd 8.5 wire. Auto range 648 ohm per 19 FEET. So your wires are 2.2 x 20,000???

 

[Bob K]

You should run NGK UR5 plugs. Why are you getting info from Gnttype,? A lot of that info was printed since 1994 and is outdated

It was suggested earlier in this thread that I go there.

 

[Bob K]

I just happen to have 19 FEET of msd 8.5 wire. Auto range 648 ohm per 19 FEET. So your wires are 2.2 x 20,000???

I believe that the 2.10 low that I'm getting means 2100 ohms and the
3.14 high means 3140 ohms.

 

[Bob K]

I re-adjusted the TPS and now I'm getting .427 with the key on, but engine not running and 4.75 at WOT ( by manipulating the throttle under the hood). With the car warm and running, the TPS reads .437 at idle.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

I re-adjusted the TPS and now I'm getting .427 with the key on, but engine not running and 4.75 at WOT ( by manipulating the throttle under the hood). With the car warm and running, the TPS reads .437 at idle.

It will come up because the alternator is on. Loosen top screw and tap it down to .42 and 4.60 You may need to pull the sensor toward you, then work your way back
648 / 19 feet is 34 ohms per foot on msd. Vs 3100 ohms / 4 feet is 775 ohms per feet. Junk wires to say the least. MSD 8.5 is the ones you want

 

[Bob K]

I thought I was good to go with TPS at the current setting. I thought it was supposed to be between .36 - .44 at idle and between 4.5 - 4.9 at WOT. Am I wrong, or is it just better at .42 and 4.6 ? As far as the wires go, I'll just have to replace them. MSD 8.5's is what I'll get.