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new motor in, need help on a few things

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ryan319

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
357
hi, just got my new motor in the other day. it has about 40 miles on it. basic 109 block, 210/215 roller, head work, 9" art carr, T62 turbo. i do have a scanmaster but just looking for some ideas. i haven't had a chance to check all the numbers.

the car seems to run rough when it's warm. when it's cool there's plenty of power but it almost has a miss when it's warm and no power until 2nd gear.

possibly related - my cooling fan doesn't seem to be turning on and temps are getting up to around 190ish with a 160 thermostat. there's s switch under the dash that i thought controlled it but nothing.

and finally - i'm getting some smoke at idle when the car is warm. the turbo was just rebuilt, do the seals have to seat? i'm not getting any smoke when the car is cool or under boost. i'm still running 30 weight break in oil with a 3an feed line. i'm thinking this may be contributing but why does it only smoke when it's warm? my oil pressure is around 30 at idle and goes up to about 70. the rings could also still be seating.

any advice from the experts before i start trouble shooting?
 
Well I'm not a expert, but I was just down the same road, fresh motor installed about 800 miles ago.
As far as the no power in 1st gear - with the car warmed up after a drive, put it in park and write down all the readings before shutting the car down. And post them up or look here for some answers Powerlogger Readings Explained - TurboTweak Forum
This is for the power logger but alot of the information is the same.

The smoke at idle does not sound good, I just installed my fresh motor and after I got all the air out of the radiator, I took it out on the highway and ran it up to 10-15 lbs boost a couple of times in 3rd gear and then let the engine idle after the boosting to help seat the rings in. I have some smoke at start up because of the rich fuel setting on the chip for a cold start. But no smoke at idle after it is warm. Did you "seat the rings in" ?

Oil pressure seems a tad high to me, is that a high pressure oil pump? A number of people don't recomend the high oil pressure thing.

Chuck
 
the oil pressure is high because i have a high volume cover and running straight 30 wt "green oil" at the recommendation of my engine builder. the 30 wt is just for break in. the main bearings were drilled to help accept the increased volume. i'm going to switch to 10 30 after a few hundred miles.

i got my pistons and bearings coated at swaintech. could that, or assembly lube still be burning off?

i think that i figured a few things out. the fan isn't working because one of the wires that goes to the block on the fan is broken. that's a pretty easy fix. hopefully between that and that coolant additive i got from jay's gn the temps will come down.

i also pulled the down pipe off and there's no oil in there so i think the turbo seal is ok. i thought that to be the case cause the idle smoke didn't smell like oil. smells more like burning plastic? it does have a touch of blue in it. maybe the rings aren't seated yet. it does have total seal rings.
 
mine smoked,hit or miss for about 100 miles,then it cleared up.you should be ok,a new motor will smoke some for a few miles. by the way thanks again for the converter ryan319
 
the oil pressure is high because i have a high volume cover and running straight 30 wt "green oil" at the recommendation of my engine builder. the 30 wt is just for break in. the main bearings were drilled to help accept the increased volume. i'm going to switch to 10 30 after a few hundred miles.

i got my pistons and bearings coated at swaintech. could that, or assembly lube still be burning off?

i think that i figured a few things out. the fan isn't working because one of the wires that goes to the block on the fan is broken. that's a pretty easy fix. hopefully between that and that coolant additive i got from jay's gn the temps will come down.

i also pulled the down pipe off and there's no oil in there so i think the turbo seal is ok. i thought that to be the case cause the idle smoke didn't smell like oil. smells more like burning plastic? it does have a touch of blue in it. maybe the rings aren't seated yet. it does have total seal rings.

Do you have a list of mods for the car? Are you running roller or flat tappet cam. I am running total seal rings also, I changed my oil at 200 miles and getting ready to change it again at 1000 miles. There is a specific way to break in a flat tappet cam, if that is new with your fresh build. With the roller cam, not much to break in other then seating the rings. I did not use any additive or synthetic oil with the initial start up of the motor(much harder to seat the rings with additives/synthetic oil). At 200 miles I put a bottle of GM EOS in for good measure, so far so good (while knock on wood).

Chuck
 
210/215 roller, forged pistons, new std/std turbo crank, resized rods, new TT chip, 60 lb inj, ported irons, ported intake, no cat, fuel pump hotwire, 3500 art carr n/l, adjustable FP (set at 40), main studs, all arp hardware, coated bearings and pistons, gbody 23 row ic, hv pump/cover, 160 thermostat, decked heads and block, cometics, and total seal rings.

turbo isn't leaking. i checked the dp last night. i think it's either still breaking in, or there's too much crankcase pressure when it gets warm. i'm just going to put some more miles on it and see if it goes away. it runs awesome when it's cool. i can't keep the tires under it and i haven't really layed into it yet. just putting some boost at it to seat the rings.
 
What was done to the heads to accomodate the higher valve lift? I have that cam in my new build and the exhaust valve guides were cut down with positive style seals installed with new smooth stem valves. I had smoke at idle early on during break in and it turned out to be three of the valve stem seals had slipped off the guides. I replaced them with better quality seals and smoke is gone.
I doubt this has anything to do with the loss of power issue though. I'm very interested in what might cause that! Keep us posted on your progress.
 
i haven't driven the car much because i blew a hole in the coupler going from the turbo to the I/C. new one should be here anyday now.

the valves were done with positive seals. if that were the problem, wouldn't they would smoke all the time? i still only have 60 miles on the motor because i haven't been able to drive it the last few days. if it still smokes after i change out the break in oil then i'll start digging into it further. i think that i just need to run it for a while.

i think the power loss was a heat soak problem. the fan wasn't turning on and temps got up around 200. that issue has been corrected......i think.
 
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