New noise while cranking?

[6pack]

Well finally got the fp hanger line fixed and new battery and some more gas. Anyway it will turn over good only it is popping(from under the hood, and low frequency, not really a backfire but it is consistent) while it does and still won't start I know I have it for sale, but if I could fix it or if someone locally would come look at it and maybe help me fix it, I would keep it. It also smells like propane under the hood after trying to crank it? It is no longer making the bubbling noise at the fuel rail. Thanks.

 

[crazygn]

Ok bud lets get that car fixed , i'll try to help the best i can. I would first start by seeing if you have any spark , so pull the plugs and see if there is any wet gas on the plugs. Do the old screw driver trick to see if you have spark at the plug wires. If you do then pull the plugs and put them in the plug wire anmd ground it to something , turn the key and see if you have spark. If so move on.

If you have a fuel press gauge , check it and see what you have . If not make sure you are getting gas at the rail where the little pin is. if you are getting fuel then check your cam sensor to make sure its set right. You can also do the ecm test and test all the pins at the ecm to make sure you are getting the right voltage.

any questions please ask , i'll try to help yea, belive me i have some problems with mine that are a pain to you just gotta take a break some times.

 

[Men in Black]

How old is the gas in your car? The propane smell is probably stale bad gas.

 

[6pack]

Crazygn, I did the spark test previously and had spark at the wires and plugs, also wet plug(I think, have to check them again). I got 36# of pressure at the rail. Bought a casper's cam setting tool and set it that way, but not sure of it and I don't think those things are fool proof, I will redo it just to be sure. Tell me how to do the ecm pin test, I am not clear on that one. Men in Black, just put the gas in today. About a gallon of it has been in there a month or so. Very frustrated with this thing.

 

[cool 84]

What's the history, did it just die one day or did it refuse to start after running fine? See where the popping is coming form. Take the MAF pipe off and hold the TB open while someone cranks it to see if it's coming from the intake. If you have spark and the plugs are wet that pretty much eliminates the cam sensor and crank sensor being bad. You could still have the cam sensor 180 out even with the tool to set it. Do you have a scantool to see if certain sensors are working like the temp sensor?

 

[6pack]

Cool84,
I bought it from previous owner not running he said it would crank and idle fine but if the gas peddle was touched it would stall, I figured fuel pump bad so I bought the car. Got it here and the main fuel line has a hole in it, fixed that and replaced the pump. Wouldn't crank. I have never had it running and the main reason I am ready to give up and sell it. I do have a scan tool, but thought it only worked if car was running, shows how much I "don't" know. Wish someone was closer that could physically look at it as there are NO shops around here that probably knows anything about these cars unless someone knows something I don't. It does sound as if the sound is coming from the intake, but I will check that also. Could the cam sensor be 180 out even if I have never removed it? Thanks guys.

 

[84WHSTLR]

My experience with engines popping through the intake when cranking is that the timing is way off.
On my '84, when I first tried firing it after new motor install, it wouldn't start and was backfiring through the intake. I checked the plug wires on the pack. I had converted to an '87 coil and module. I had wired them up like the '87 coil had labeled instead of ignoring the '87's numbers and hooking them up like the '84 coil.
Something simple to check.

 

[6pack]

Well..

It is definately a backfire, and definately from the intake, judging by the fireball the throttle body shot at me . Plugs are wet with gas, and I hooked up my scan tool and everything looks fine, well to me anyway, But I really don't know what to look for and it has thrown a code 15 and 23? Please help, very desperate.

 

[crazygn]

First check all of your injector plugs to make sure there on real good, 2nd make sure your cam sensor is not 180* out, And 3rd i hope its not your timing chain do you know if it stock.

I would say the back fire is from the camsensor or timing chain,

 

[cool 84]

Definately a timing issue. I would start with the cam sensor. If all else fails, turn it a little, crank it over, if it doesn't start, turn it a little more. Eventually you'll hit the spot. I used the actual procedure to get it in the ball park and then I blindly turn it until it runs the best. I'm assuming your plug wires are on right.

The other thing is like was already said the cam could've jumped time.

A very remote possibility is the reluctor wheel for the crank sensor somehow got turned or came loose but that's a very small possibility and that's the last thing I would look at.

 

[crazygn]

I did mine before i had the cam sensor tool the same way, turn it till it runs good and it was right on the money by what the tool said.


give it a try , you should be running in no time

 

[6pack]

Ok so I loosen the cam sensor bolt and turn it till it cranks and runs good, right? And which way shall I turn it CClock, or clockwise? Kinda like setting the timing ona chebby small block? Which is actual what I would be doing, duh. Thanks guys. Gonna be slow checking it this week as I am working graveyard and just got in around 6:30, time to go to bed now

 

[HOTSIX]

BIG problem I had with my 3 month NO START was my injectors.

They had been cleaned and flow tested but NOT oiled. They sat for a month till I got the motor back and installed. They dry out inside and will seize. Mine did.

Depending on how long your car was sitting NOT running and NO gas in the injectors - this might be your problem.

Other things I had to check was Cam sensor - Crank sensor - Plug wires - All motor grounds - Module and Coil.....

Try the simple things like the guys say above - they got me running !

Gas in ALL cyls....fire and compression in ALL cyls ?

 

[cool 84]

Originally posted by 6pack
Ok so I loosen the cam sensor bolt and turn it till it cranks and runs good, right? And which way shall I turn it CClock, or clockwise? Kinda like setting the timing ona chebby small block? Which is actual what I would be doing, duh. Thanks guys. Gonna be slow checking it this week as I am working graveyard and just got in around 6:30, time to go to bed now

I usually put a socket with a long extension, loosen the bolt, turn the sensor a little, then tighten it and try and start it. Leave the socket and extension on the bolt for ease of adjustment. Repeat until it starts.

 

[6pack]

Thanks again..

Will update you guys when I get to fool with it.

 

[6pack]

Got another ?/problem?????

I removed the fuel pressure gauge from the shrader valve and turned the car on. To my surprise fuel was leaking out of the shrader(sp)valve. I pressed down on the little nipple and it just flowed out with no pressure, is this bad?

 

[HOTSIX]

What did the FP gauge read when U had it on after "key on (only) no start" ?

If it read nothing (or very low) - then my guess would be you got a bum fuel pump. Time for a Walbro and hotwire kit to go in !
Normal FP read for the rail should be around 35 - 40 PSI. Does your car have an adjustible FP regulator ? Might be turned way down if so.....

 

[6pack]

Reads 36#

Already got the walbro and hotwire. It did this after car was shut off, I guess that has something to do with it.

 

[crazygn]

If you shut the car off and then have no press at the rail , then theres a prob some where in the fuel sys. Check to see how long it holds press at the rail when you shut the car off, i think it should hold for at less 18-20 min.

 

[cool 84]

36lbs is enough for it to at least start for a little while. Have you turned the cam sensor yet?