new rebuild

[Crazyx4]

i can't get the oil primed in the engine. used a drill and tool on the oil pump for what seemed 3 or 4 min. 3 different times nothing. should put grease around the gears to help it suck the oil in or something else? rotation was clockwise

 

[Grumpy]

new front cover ??

 

[Crazyx4]

new pump and cover

 

[Grumpy]

well hate to tell ya this but some new covers need to be cleaned up.. like flash casting in the oil galleys..

 

[Blown&Injected]

Check everywhere in a new cover - I have found loose chunks of casting in a new cover in some strange areas.

It is also easy to put the gasket in the pump wrong and that can cause such problems.

 

[Clark6]

I had the similar problem last year when i tried to prime mine, i read on--- gntype.org----on how to prime engine; and i pulled the" hose" on the input or out put side filter (but go back to be sure to see if i remembered correctly). i poured a little oil in the opposite hose & spinned the drill counter clockwise for a bit put more oil in it, then turned it the clockwise direction then i had lift off!!!


here it isrocedure
This procedure can be used instead of packing the oil pump with white grease or Vasoline.
The engine should be reassembled except for the cam sensor and the top oil cooler line connection at the radiator. (See note 1)

Put three quarts of oil in the engine.
Take the lid (or see note 2) from a quart of oil and cut an X in it so that the end of the oil cooler line can just be inserted. This may take a
little practice to get it to fit tightly. (You have 5 or 6 to work with, right?)
Attach the quart of oil to the lid.
Wrap a rag or something around the crude connection to catch the drips, and invert the quart of oil.
Rotate the oil pump backwards (counterclockwise) to pump the oil out of the container. Do this until the container is almost empty.
Remove the container.
Reattach the oil cooler line.
Top off the engine with oil.
The pump is now primed, but you want to pump oil (prime) throughout the engine before you start it.
Prime the engine with oil by turning the oil pump (clockwise) with a drill until you get oil to the rocker arms.
Reinstall and set the cam sensor, and you are done
Note 1:
The intercooler and fan can be left off to make setting the cam sensor easier.
Note 2:
A properly sized funnel instead of the hole in the oil container lid should also work, but might be tricky to do by yourself.
Note 3:
The use of Vaseline is totally NOT NECESSARY with this method. And its use is NOT recommended (although it will still work)

 

[Crazyx4]

thanks clark6 i went through that process and it worked great. are roller cams noisy or do i have a problem? everything esle seems ok for now, still need to test drive it to make sure.

 

[Clark6]

Pretty sure everything is noisy at first but should quiet down fairly well. I didnt bother mine till after it was broke in , it was noisey for about 30 seconds then quieted to a sewing machine/diesel truck like sound but sorta loudened back up again till one day I broke a rocker stud about 2000 miles after the breakin and decided to adjust them (all) according to comps site, now they are as quiet as my flat tappet with the slight sewing machine sound, i'll put it like this if you listen carefully you can tell you got rollers.
also depend on length of studs if thats what youre using, i dunno. Mike Licht and Tom at champion helped me out with pushrod length.

 

[Just a Six??]

Should not be overly noisy if you have good pushrod geometry. Mine are actually pretty quiet compared to some I have heard.
Also EVERY Front Cover should get the Earl Brown port job to it.

 

[turbofabricator]

I know how to check push-rod algebra, but I failed geometry class in 9th grade. (fourth grade was the hardest 3 years of my life, too.) I have a neighbor that teaches triginometry and calculus, will he be able to help?

I think you mean ROCKER geometry, right? THAT I know how to check :biggrin: But, on these engines we don't have alot of options to correct rocker geometry. The rocker ratio, push rod length, and valve stem highth are all we can adjust. (with out serious machine work and money) Most guys adjust rocker geometry by changing push rod length. THe other possible options are usually left to a more experienced builder. The GN1 heads have a real issue with geometry. Especially the 14 bolt heads.
The noise of the valve train can be caused by many things, but is usually caused by either lifter pre-load and/or pi$$ poor Comp roller lifters. Lots of good info on here about valvetrain noise. Try the search button.