new scanmaster numbers

[86grdnatl]

previously, my iac was stuck at 00 so i reset my iac and tps and here are my numbers at idle after being warmed up

02- 400-600
af- 07
l8- 51
bat- 13.4
int- 117-127
bl-105
mph-00
clt- 206
ats- 131
r- 725-750
tps- .42
iac- 17
mal- 00

Any input or advice is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks alot, Justin

 

[CGASTON]

What is your fuel pressure set at? Clt temp is really high, too high for turbo car. What thermostat do you have in the car? What chip?

 

[86grdnatl]

Everything is completely stock. Fuel pressure is 31 line on, 39 line off. Original thermostat and chip

 

[CGASTON]

Fuel Pressure, line off needs to be #43.. Try that n repost

 

[87-WE2]

Everything is completely stock. I assume then he has a 233 regulator. How do you adjust fuel pressure then? Don't read any flames into this!!!

 

[86grdnatl]

thanks for replying guys. i appreciate it. I do not have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and i feel that i have a fuel delivery issue. When i connected my fuel pressure gauge to my car i got a huge suprise. At idle warmed up, i had a line on pressure of 25 lbs and a line off pressure of almost 35 lbs. Sometimes it gives me these low numbers, and other times when i try it again, it gives me the 31 and 39 lb numbers. Do you know why this may be? and i noticed that i can hear a distinct buzzing noise coming from the fuel tank while the car is running, is this normal?

 

[Ttype6]

thanks for replying guys. i appreciate it. I do not have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and i feel that i have a fuel delivery issue. When i connected my fuel pressure gauge to my car i got a huge suprise. At idle warmed up, i had a line on pressure of 25 lbs and a line off pressure of almost 35 lbs. Sometimes it gives me these low numbers, and other times when i try it again, it gives me the 31 and 39 lb numbers. Do you know why this may be? and i noticed that i can hear a distinct buzzing noise coming from the fuel tank while the car is running, is this normal?

Your fuel pressure of 31-39 is right where it's supposed to be at an idle. This is the pressure that the original program was designed for. You do have a fuel issue based on your varied readings,but the only way to know for sure is to observe the fuel pressure at WOT. It should be 52-54 with 13-15 lbs of boost.

If you get an aftermarket chip in the future,you'll need an idle pressure of 43-45 depending on the chip. Your fuel pressure regulator is adjustable if you want to increase your fuel pressure. Squeeze it with a large pair of adjustable pliers while watching a gauge. Of course,once you adjust upward you'll never be able to go back down.

You probably have a bad pump,but you need to check pressure and voltage to determine if you do.

The fuel pump inside the tank usually makes some noise.

 

[86grdnatl]

With the fuel pressure gauge taped to my windshield, and at wot, the fuel pressure only got to 39 lbs max on the gauge. Would a faulty Maf prevent my car to accelerate properly? When I get to about 12 lbs of boost, the car just stumbles and backfires. Also at wot, my o2's on my scanmaster say 003. Would this be a problem? Thanks a lot

 

[lolo86GN]

From looking at your Scanmaster numbers I think your BL is quite low at "105".. A reading that low means the ecm is pulling almost all of the fuel to compensate for a rich condition. I've seen lots of posts from Ttype6 in the tech sections and believe he knows what he's talking about with these cars. Like he said, you're looking for over 52-54 lbs of fuel pressure at WOT. If you're only getting 39 lbs and backfiring plus seeing O2 readings of 003 (which would indicate a lean condition at WOT) then it might be time for a fuel pump and hotwire kit.

A faulty MAF would cause all kinds of problems if not reading properly. Most people will tell you that you want to see the MAF reading on the Scanmaster at WOT hit 255 but again if your car is popping and backfiring I wouldn't try any WOT runs. If you know of someone with a known good MAF who might loan one to you after the pump and hotwire are done.

 

[86grdnatl]

Thanks alot for the reply. I am going to look into purchasing a new fuel pump as well as a hot wire kit. I have done some research on the fuel pumps for these cars and i would like to get one where i woulnt have to do any type of modification to the fuel lines. There is one from turbo tweak that is a 255l/hr pump for about $110. It is a walbro pump. Would you know if that would be a good investment to make? I want to make sure that i buy the right pump.

 

[Ttype6]

Thanks alot for the reply. I am going to look into purchasing a new fuel pump as well as a hot wire kit. I have done some research on the fuel pumps for these cars and i would like to get one where i woulnt have to do any type of modification to the fuel lines. There is one from turbo tweak that is a 255l/hr pump for about $110. It is a walbro pump. Would you know if that would be a good investment to make? I want to make sure that i buy the right pump.

I,m sory,I didn't notice that it was you. you have the hour glass shaped MAF,correct? I wanted you to look at the voltage to the pump,but the erratic readings along with no pressure rise and the fact that it's an original (I think) pump,you need a pump.I recommend Red Armstrong's XP pump. It's a Walbro,as is Eric's. If you bought either one,it would be a good choice. You have a fuel delivery problem,so that has to be addressed.

You also have another problem and,if I were a betting man I would bet on the MAF. It's the wrong one for the car and it's re manufactured by a company that is known to almost never get these things right. I purchased one,back in the day that worked correctly and tried many more that weren't. The bucking is not caused by the low fuel pressure. When the fuel pressure goes low the motor falls on its face,but it wouldn't buck. I susspect that if we could log some data we would get some interesting numbers from the MAF.

As lolo86GN pointed out,your BL number is very low. That's another clue that should make us look at the MAF,as everyone of the bad ones I've tried were very rich. We know that you motor is running very rich because you BL number is low.This means that the computer is removing fuel in an attempt to produce the targeted A/F ratio of 14.7to1. This is probably all the adjustment that the program can make and the motor is probably still rich.

You need a fuel pump and a Translator Plus and a 3'' MAF. Yes,the Translator Plus.

 

[86grdnatl]

Thanks a lot guys. Could you point me in the direction of some websites that sell the pump and Maf parts I need? All this help is greatly appreciated

 

[lolo86GN]

for the fuel pump you could do either Racetronix, fullthrottle, or turbotweak.. looks like they all carry the walbro 255 and racetronix hotwire kit. Guess it all depends on who has the better price for you. Keep in mind the pump and hotwire are sold separately.

Translators and MAF are available from fullthrottle and turbotweak plus some other vendors.. One more thing on the fuel pump hotwire.. If you have an 86 there are possibly 2 different connectors at the fuel pump. Looks like GM changed the connector mid year. You can go on the racetronix website as they have good illustrations of what to look for so you get the right one for your car. if you have an 87 i'd still check the website as insurance so you order the right one.

 

[GNONYX]

I can understand your being eager and ambitious to get your car tune correctly, what I don't understand is why you are asking the board again the same question of problems as dated on this thread date:http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/scanmaster-numbers.380894/
You didn't mention to the board as previous dated that your car is completely stock. It has been sitting since 1993.....and it has 165000 miles
Original Catalytic Converter (probably clogged causing the high temp and poor running performance)
Original un-touch Radiator (also clogged poor circulation)
Original thermostat, and other original equipment
I personally suggested that you do a Spring Cleaning Guide, and also Check for crack headers
The last thing I left off with you on Sunday was:
Your TPS , and IAC looks good and better than before, but the temp is too high and your Bl is low.
You still need to replace the Catalytic Converter and the thermostat before display your ScanMaster numbers again, and after then you can display them so board members can help you out.
With all being said, have you did the spring cleaning, replace the Catalytic Converter, send the radiator to the radiator shop, check headers?

 

[trbojo]

I can understand your being eager and ambitious to get your car tune correctly, what I don't understand is why you are asking the board again the same question of problems as dated on this thread date:http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/scanmaster-numbers.380894/
You didn't mention to the board as previous dated that your car is completely stock. It has been sitting since 1993.....and it has 165000 miles
Original Catalytic Converter (probably clogged causing the high temp and poor running performance)
Original un-touch Radiator (also clogged poor circulation)
Original thermostat, and other original equipment
I personally suggested that you do a Spring Cleaning Guide, and also Check for crack headers
The last thing I left off with you on Sunday was:
Your TPS , and IAC looks good and better than before, but the temp is too high and your Bl is low.
You still need to replace the Catalytic Converter and the thermostat before display your ScanMaster numbers again, and after then you can display them so board members can help you out.
With all being said, have you did the spring cleaning, replace the Catalytic Converter, send the radiator to the radiator shop, check headers?

a catalytic converter is a pretty expensive "just throw one on and see what happens" he could just unbolt it and see if it makes any difference,,,

 

[blackgn1]

What's a catalytic converter?

 

[trbojo]

What's a catalytic converter?

what are mufflers??

 

[GNONYX]

a catalytic converter is a pretty expensive "just throw one on and see what happens" he could just unbolt it and see if it makes any difference,,,

I agree they are expensive, also in his early thread statement: He thinking about purchasing the cacto high flow cat from gbody parts instead of gutting it. I don't want to have to worry about emissions.
Heck, just put a test pipe in place of the Cat and see if the temp goes down and if the engine perform better
My point is simple, newbie needs to read before hands on, It's great asking questions for a certain problem, but when there are too many issues to repair where do you begin?
It was already discussed to do a spring cleaning, to which he claimed he did, but nothing was mention of replacing the original 165,000 fuel filter.

 

[Ttype6]

Thanks a lot guys. Could you point me in the direction of some websites that sell the pump and Maf parts I need? All this help is greatly appreciated

Did you replace the filter? Did you inspect your vacuum lines? Voltage at the pump?

Here is where you buy the translator plus. Remember to ask for the plus version as it allows for timing adjustments.You don't need to purchase the 3' Maf new. they are a dime a dozen at any salvage yard. For example my 96 4.3 S10 truck uses this as does my 99 3.1 Monte Carlo. If you asked them for a MAF for either of these cars you would get the same thing,or I have one that I could sell you.

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp ic 050BUICKTRANS eq 050buicktrans-bu Tp

You can call Red Armstrong at (440) 235-3232 if you decide to buy his XP pump and volt booster that I recommend. It's not necessary for you to buy the hot wire or volt booster at this time. They're items that can be added any time down the road and I recommend Them. You could spread out the cost if you were so inclined.

 

[Ttype6]

when there are too many issues to repair where do you begin?

With any one of them. Then another.